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611

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Everything posted by 611

  1. All their stuff is expensive and always has been. Im not sure if they ever sell anything!
  2. Hi Simon Hopefully you might find some useful info on the site. There are a few good places to get spares the the A series these days. The main thing you will find hard to get is the trim as no one remanufactures that yet and any NOS in German is very expensive! It would be great to meet up at one of the meetings next year. Andy
  3. Welcome to the club and good to see another A series. Looks nice and has the SR gauges 🙂 I have a few parts links and workshop manual sections on my blog which might help you out and as Wayne says, you are in the right place if you need help with anything. https://www.theopelproject.com/ Andy
  4. Paul, if i drove it every day i would probably go softer but when its just used on sunny days for having a bit of fun or for the odd trip out then i can live with the harder ride.
  5. Think my springs are quite hard and i could probably go softer and get a better ride on our roads but then it does corner nice like it is 🙂
  6. It really depends what the base map is like and what its based on? Is it a base map for an Opel? When i took mine up and they had to put the Omex on they loaded a base map from a 2.0l Ford and it fired up and ran ok and ran the cam in. Then they tweaked it so it ran properly for my setup. I was supposed to go back from the full power run but to be honest its so good i haven't felt the need to go back. Im sure they could squeeze more power out of it but it has good power and not bad fuel consumption. If the base map is not specific to the Opel or your engine size them main issues could be under fuelled, so it might not run as best and might be lacking in power, over fuelled and it would be running rich and you probably wont wont to do too many miles like that. Who loaded the base map? Could be worth calling Manta hatch's recommendation and asking what they think? I had a good chat with Northampton Motorsport before i took mine up to them. They were super helpful. Can you hook a laptop up and let someone remote connect to it? As that's what they did to mine as i had to go back and fit the new ECU and wiring and when i was all ready to fire it up the connected up and tweaked a couple of setting remotely. They might be able to do an initial setup so its good enough to drive etc.. and as you say give it a shakedown. Also make sure the battery, cooling etc.. are all working fine when you do take as you don't want any problem when your are there, they don't stop the clock if you have to sort something out 🙂 Cost me a fair bit to get mine sorted with he ECU issues but worth it in the end. He did tell me before i came i should chuck the ECU i had, and he was right!! Andy
  7. If you are worried about the drive to Portsmouth then you won't love it when they pop it on the rollers!! Make sure the car is as prepared as it can be as there time is expensive and they will give it some welly! so you don't want it breaking down while its there! Can you not trailer it there? I hired one of those drive on recovery things and took mine up to Northampton (from Bournemouth) as it was not run in with the new cam. It might seem like an expense, but the cost of tuning is way more expensive! I had issues with my ECU (old Webcon Alpha) and they had to swap it out for an Omex one, so that added an hour and a half to the cost! Why are you worried about the drive? because its not setup properly? Andy
  8. Hey Fin The Yellow adjustable Koni's are quite hard. I know i also have uprated springs but its quite a harsh ride. I thought the red Koni's were suppose to be softer but im not sure if they are adjustable. I was looking for a stiffer ride as the old A did you to roll a fair but on the standard stup! You just have to pick your route based on the smoothest roads 🙂 which is getting harder as in the UK they just bodge the roads as they think everyone now drives big willowy 4x4's 🙂 I have never used anything else so im not sure. A friend ran Bilstein's and i thought they were a bit softer but i dont know what spring setup he had. Andy
  9. Hey Lewis I have a bit of spare time so let me know what i can do to help. Web stuff would be quite easy for me if you want to setup any sort of part numbers list. I happy to do it initially on my blog if you want and then we could move it over to the Opel site if that's easier to manage to start off with? Just let me know what works for you and what i can help with. Andy
  10. I have some A stuff left so pop up a list and i can let you know if i can help as well. Andy
  11. Let me know the part number if its for an A and i will add it here: https://www.theopelproject.com/part-numbers/ Andy
  12. Hey Fin That setup is quite interesting. I wonder what it handles like compared to standard?? I already had the front springs but they made it sit too high, so i worked out the hight of the spring so it would sit just right (i cant remember exactly how i calculated it as it was years ago!!) then sent the spring off to Coil Spring ( i think) and they made the new spring the right height and rate for it to all work and they are spot on. There are a few places selling the shocks again as Koni started to make them again. These are the numbers for the A KONI 82-1739SPORT Shock Absorber Front Koni Shock Absorber Manta A/Kadett C-Rear (82-1740SPORT), Yellow KONI Mine are set to the lowest setting for the road as the roads are so crap these days! But did wind them up years ago for a track outing! I had Koni's before the rebuild and just replaced then for new when i did the build. I think you can get rebuild kits for them. I have the old rear ones sat in the loft and you can have them for the cost of delivery if you can get a rebuild kit for them. Think the fronts went with some of the stuff i was selling off a while back. Andy https://www.autodoc.co.uk/koni/7279254
  13. Would have been much easier to get my 2 1/2" system in without the roll bar in the way 🙂 but getting back to suspension Fin. Koni sport adjustables with Koni sport springs, except i had the front made to the same rating as the koni but shorter to drop the front a bit.
  14. Hmm, interesting. That must make it so much easier to get a nice big exhaust on with no roll bar at the back as that was always the issue with with the A. Is it a kit you can buy? Andy
  15. Just make your own Andy, much easier and i would have had the car back on the road about 3 years earlier if i had just done this at the start 🙂 https://www.theopelproject.com/a-series-custom-manifold/
  16. 611

    Mike's Manta.

    Love the pic of the car outside your castle 🙂
  17. Hey Paul It might be an option, maybe we should have a chat about it? Im trying to work less and spend more time getting out an about in the car and on the bike as Covid has made me realise that there is more to life than just working!! Now im charging more and working less!! I could probably spare some time each month to do some stuff for the club with A series stuff. Andy
  18. The club is great and i had been a member for a number of years even when there was no hope of the Opel being on the road as it was handy to see what others are up to. Its great for help and i hope i might have helped a few out along the way as well as getting help myself. These types of forums are all based on the same software so none will be prefect and i have never had any issues with uploading images, renewing when renewal came up but the main reason for not renewing this time was that the valuation side of things was frankly pretty pathetic for a main club. I ended doing it all myself and probably ended up with a slightly lower valuation and as the car is finished and the valuation side was rubbish i decided not to renew. I may again in the future, i will have to see. Features that the club should have is a proper parts list for all models that can be added to by members (maybe moderated by an admin) places where you can find hard to get parts (like windscreens etc..) and probably a list of recommended places to get parts from (and maybe some people might pay to be promoted? it would help the club and them) i have my own blog for my build and have pages that i have setup myself from some part numbers and useful places for parts. Im always on the site seeing what people are up to so i have not exactly left the club! just found the valuation and lack of any info on reps in my area a real letdown. I hope this helps. Andy
  19. 611

    Cavalier Coupe

    Unfortunately not. Sold it a while ago.
  20. Enem have them and they look very similar to the old Kent ones but they are just as expensive. 2519 SEK
  21. If you were going to change the timing chain it would probably worth getting the piper kit at that price. How much was just the kent one? Im sure mine is kent but quite old and in those days they just provided the plastic dial for the scale.
  22. I got mine up and running with the old cam as i wanted to make sure it all fired up ok and you don't want to run a new cam if you have any issues getting it fired up as ideally you want to run the cam in properly. A little bit of pain changing it is better than lots of pain if you kill the nice new cam. Im glad i did mine that way as i had lots of issues with the original Alpha injection. Once i had it running i swapped the cam for the enem one and then took it to run the cam in and have it mapped. Which is when i swapped to the Omex. You can do the cam wheel as well you just have to be super careful removing the cam wheel bracket as you dont want to drop one of the bolts down the front cover as then it will be engine apart! Andy
  23. Yep, its a tricky one. Dont use the standard marks if using a aftermarket cam and adjustable sprocket. This is what my cam supplier said. (If you want to be 100% certain you can adjust 0-clearenc on the cyl 1 inlet valve, put a dial gauge – or use a Vernier – so that you can measure the inlet valve opening at TDC when the engine is in the overlap position.) They set all theirs up on the valve clearance. The overlap was the confusing but, but i seemed to have worked it out at the time! I think mine is a Kent Vernier as i did run a kent cam on the twin carb setup but was never that happy with it so swapped the cam but kept the Vernier. I think piper might do one for the CIH. worth a check. That will be fine for the initial timing but the standard timing marks just make sure everything is in the right place, but the TDC setup makes sure you have the engine spot on so you can then adjust the cam. Then your basically timing the cam for full lift to get the most out of it. Usually the cam supplier will give you the details of at what position you need the cam at with the engine in the right place. ENEM If you want to be 100% certain you can adjust 0-clearenc on the cyl 1 inlet valve, put a dial gauge – or use a Vernier – so that you can measure the inlet valve opening at TDC when the engine is in the overlap position. https://www.theopelproject.com/cam-timing-info/
  24. Im with Wayne, if the engine is already out i would stick a new one piece chain. I never was keen on a split link one. Best to give it a proper check over as its not a quick job getting the engine in and out so best to make sure everything is spot on. Gaskets are quite cheap for the CIH as well. Its all in the Haynes manual so easy to follow. Or this link might help https://www.theopelproject.com/l/wp-content/uploads/2020/04/A-Series-Opel-Manta-Engine-Setion.pdf Think i scanned the whole section!! Did you take the chain tensioner out?? Andy
  25. As Jess say, the standard 2.4 (even with bigger valves) in its basic form wont give you that much extra over the 2.0L, better torque and a bit more power but to really get some power you will need to do some work on that setup. Adjustable vernier with it all dialled in with a good cam that is producing some decent lift on those nice big valves of yours. As Jess said there is loads of reading on the GT forum site about the 2.4 and all its potential and you will see all the German 2.4's will have had a fair bit of work done to them. Its probably not what you want to hear as all those bits are going to add a few more pounds to your build. But well worth it in the end and best to get it right as otherwise you will be a bit disappointed after all that time you are putting into the inlet modifications.
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