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Everything posted by monzta

  1. Hi Andy Great site you have found there. Loads of good info on building the ultimate head However i was more looking for historic use of roller rocker arms, but it has proven quite difficult. Think we might end up with just trying to see if the guys from FIA Historic Dept can greenlight them if we buy them.. How´s your project coming along ?
  2. Hi Chris. Yup i have written a mail to "rally-bob" Thing is i need to prove that roller rockers was actually used on CIH heads back in the early 70´s / late 60´s. I know it was available as the Steinmetz / Conrero crossflow head for the Opel GT and later Ascona A and Manta A used roller rocker arms. But the head design is a alltogether different design than the CIH so proving they ran with the Conrero head and roller rockers won´t give me a pass at running them on a CIH head. Bunch of bureaucrats those FIA people.. Actually its stupid. I can pay 15000 £ for a Conrero head (yes thats what the last one that i know was sold went for) and then use roller rockers and crossflow technology on a CIH, but i cant mount roller rockers on a plain CIH head.. The conrero head will add 20-25hp on top of what ever a CIH will ever get to perform so its just plain stupid... But thats the deal i guess..
  3. Hi guys. Been a while. I am desperatly looking for info on roller rockers for the CIH engines. I need to find out how far back in time they´ve been used ! I know for a fact that the Conrero heads from the late 60´s for the Opel GT´s had roller rocker arms. But the question is if they ever did a set for the CIH head as well, and when. And then most importantly than all is that i need to document it... Any help will be greatly appriciated. Cheers, Ruben
  4. Enem Y12 P13 may suit you the best regarding your rev wishes. They are direct fitment parts.
  5. Any Kadett C 1,2 ignition will do. The 1,2 Asconas and Mantas can be hard to find, but as said the Kadett use the same engine so salvage one from the 1200 Kadett C Ebay.de
  6. Also if you have a cold starter valve injector on the back of the injection try disconnecting it as they sometimes get stuck for some reason. Then it will run like a carb´d one with the choker pulled constantly. Also check all wirering and give it some spray of sorts. Here in Denmark the contact and moist remover spray is called "Caramba". But there are several on the market. Also check your spark plugs. You can learn alot about your engine by observing their colour. If they are black the engine gets too much juice (fat mixture = blown fuel regulator, bad injectors, or bad cold start injector). If they are white (like chalk)/grey it is proppably running lean (false air check manifold gasket, servo valve and tubes, false air leaks on all connections on the intake manifold). The above is not a direct answer to your question but will bring you closer to something solvable
  7. The major difference in the swap to vented discs is that the brakes won´t fade when stressing them. Solid brakes will begin to fade when they get hot, and as vented discs are faster to cool down again, they are quickly ready for the next abuse This was the biggest change i noticed on my first vented disc converted Manta. So i have been going for that almost every time i had a Manta as a very good and cheap upgrade.
  8. You need to go for vented discs. Discs and calipers are freely available from Rekord E2 2,2i (you may need to find them on German ebay). This is a direct fit bolt on conversion that will give you a major advantage in stopping power. Going for solid discs no matter what disc and pad you use is a bad idea if the goal is to upgrade you brakes. Another alternative that is easier to come by in the UK are Carlton GSi front disc brakes and calipers. Theese will require some machining to fit though and they are also quite large. 288mm or 296mm diameter so anything less of 15" wheels is a no-no. Also a very cheap and extremly effective upgrade. For this to work you will need to shim 4mm (2 mm off inside of mounting surface on disc, and 2mm on mounting surface of the hub). You will also need redrilling the disc to mount it on the hub (pcd 4x90 mm on the mounting bolts on the hub if i remember correctly (please check this) ) apart from that, its plug n´ play and massive massive brakes for a fraction of the cost of EBC discs and pads.
  9. If you remove EDIS-4 from your ignition options your choices narrow down and become increasingly more expensive. The EDIS 4 ignition actually works. But you could take a look at Lumenition ignition systems, i think they make some stuff for the c20xe that may fit your engine.
  10. I would drain it for gasoline as well. Gas has an expire date, and it will be a possible problem maker later on.. I wouldnt do more to it than that, but when spring comes and the car is going back on wheels i would put in fresh gas, check up on the thermostate make sure it moves and is 100% ok, vent the coolant system, put in fresh oil and filter. Then you are set for a problem free summer
  11. Have you vented the system by unfastening the screw at the top of the thermostate housing ? You need to vent it ! At the left top you can see that the lid of the thermostate housing has a screw. This is where you vent the system. Do NOT disconnect any hoses, just undo this screw and let the engine run until water sprays from the screw. Other than that your thermostate can be roasted but this is a long shot. As you have changed radiator and coolant this is most likely where the problem lies. And as you say, you new rad is fine, then it can only be the coolant = air bubble in the system !
  12. Only two options imo. Either your sender is acting crazy or you have some massive airpockets in your engine. I think it may be the last one as this is a very typical bug when fiddling around with the cooling system... You need to take off your radiator lid, start the engine and wait for the thermostate to open. Then you loosen the phillips screw on the top of the thermostate housing and bleed the thing. You will get loads of steam here, when coolant runs out from here you close the screw on the thermostate housing. Then you top op the radiator with coolant and you are done. The CIH kan be troublesome to remove airpockets from so it may help to flush the system first using a garden hose. The above will never hurt so maybe you ought to try this first ?
  13. Sneaky bastard :ph34r: :ph34r:
  14. Try to give the fuel pump constant power from battery + so it runs constantly then try to start. Also, check spark on plugs etc.
  15. Oh the subaru blue is very overused here in Denmark. And has been especially on the Mantas for many years. Ford blue metallic is also one of the more used colours. Personally i have always loved the 70´s colour schemes before metallic was fasionable Like this: But thats just me Everyone has their own ideas about styling and colouring of the Manta
  16. Love the CC with Ascona front end. Its a winning combo, especially with the twin headlight kit and irmscher sport front grille. Will be following this What colour are you planning. Mine was sunflower yellow wich honestly was a little too much
  17. I agree on NGK is the best choice. Also using good leads are very important as there is alot of resistance in the ignition parts itself on the old cars. The thicker and better leads the better imo. Magnecor has what you need in that department. Otherwise you can actually buy a complete set for DIY wich is something i have considere many times. You can make leads like 14mm thick and with a absolute minimum of resistance.
  18. Simons Exhaust Systems is the one i have always used. They have exhaust systems in 2" sport (no silly sound) and 2,5" Gruppe A type for racing.
  19. Well that pretty much settles that then Great research though.
  20. All you need is an 8, 10, 13, 15, 17 and 19 mm then you can take a Manta apart and back together again Not much to say regarding advice. You should give it a good lookover, change the parts thats faulty or rusty. Make sure to check the swan necks as theese tend to rust around the hole for the lower front triangles. Parts are available from several German part dealers like Leidinger. He is very polite and will send the parts to the UK. He also writes in English so no need to brush off the German vocabulary And good luck with it, its a beaut
  21. BMW levers should fit in theory as many BMW´s also use the Getrag 240 gearbox. That is especially the E30´s
  22. Just a tad of news. My brother has been stockpiling theese alloys along with some crazy gearboxes from BMW´s There´s a total of 8 8x13" ones and 4 7x13" ones. They are called Ronal Kleeblatt (clover-leaf) and they are pretty rare, made from magnesium aluminium alloy so they are very very light. 4 of them are on the way here for a blasting and then back on the shelf
  23. A volvo 240/740 series rear axle would be the solution to this. Also they are very tough so would be an addon to the project. The width will fit but the brakes will have some issues. But on the + sides you will also have gained disc brakes to the rear
  24. I agree The only way when talking compressors is that larger is better Found a diesel powered one that could make 64 bar thats 928psi with a machine like that i could plast your parts in the UK all the way from Denmark i think :ph34r: I have found something called "Korund" wich should be extremly hard and reusable up to 20 times before the material itselfs becomes dust. It shouldnt make as big a mess as other products. For industrial purposes it is used for cleaning cast iron, metals and especially stainless steel. So its very sturdy and powerfull. Not sure as to wether its good for alloys like aluminium but maybe if one turned the pressure down it could be ok. Found a bag with 25kg of it for 20 Euro so its not expensive. I figure i will give this a try first. And yes there is for and against almost every abrasive on the market, some of them are product specific (like only for cast iron etc).
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