Jump to content

paulmanta

OMOC Members
  • Posts

    2,784
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    36

Everything posted by paulmanta

  1. Anyone remember "LRP" ? It wasn't available all that long. Ive been playing with fuel for a while anyway, I have a few potion options depending on if it's for a car or the mower !
  2. The main trouble I have with ethanol is that is absorbs water from the atmosphere and will accelerate the rusting of the steel tank. Its also got a lower calorific value so you burn more and get lower mpg. Plus it rots rubber and seals plus eats old alloy parts. Yeah, it's not going near my manta !
  3. That's very good of you ! I think Sean is sorting me out but if it doesn't happen for some reason I will be in touch. Thanks !
  4. I don't want to hijack the thread but I will reply to those who have sent me messages. P.
  5. I have hundreds of spare parts for locks. I build full matching sets ! P.
  6. Send it to me with a key and I can sort it. You Pay post but that's all. Pm for address. P
  7. I think Sean hovell is helping me out with this now, after I posted this topic I emailed him and he has some ! Thanks for the tip though. P
  8. Fixable, but if it's not you can put any combination of tumblers in. A door lock so you can keep the key. I've done tons and could sort it out for you if you want.
  9. Hi. Anyone got a pair of those big chassis bolts with the castle nuts that hold the subframe to the chassis ? I can't find any In my big bucket of bolts and I need a pair to clean up and fit to my V8 project.
  10. Nice to know, It's no use to me unless I can swap it to a more useable ratio. I wouldn't have found it if I wasn't trying to help to OP out !
  11. I had a look but the axle I have here that I thought was suitable turned out to be full of an LSD with a weird 4.22:1 ratio. I've had it sat in my garage for 25 or so years and only kept it because it had no rust in the spring cups and it came from an 1800 I broke because the car was crashed. So bonus on the LSD, not so much the ratio though.
  12. Yes, but you need to take the door card off and reposition the glass on the mechanism. Loosen the 13mm bolt and slide the glass back a bit. BUT ! Once you do this you will have to adjust lots of other things that do door glass bumpstop duty. It's Pandora's box to be honest. There are two height adjustment blocks on 10mm bolts along the top of the door There are two 10mm bolts that adjust rake on the latch end of the door and the mirror/window guide assembly has a rake adjustment just in front of the winder stud. Again 10mm but this one has a screw thread too so you can get the front of the glass rake right. Beware moving the glass back too much as it will mean it make a gap at the front by the mirror triangle. Take your time, have a brew on hand and be prepared to get it perfect but as soon as you hang the door card it mucks it all up an you have to put some slack in to make up for the door card. Hateful job !
  13. Bonding the headlamps is a bit of a poor idea, they get hot and the glue may fail but the bigger issue is its not possible to adjust them at all. I worked as a testers assistant and those would have failed, the beam testing machines are proper accurate and all have to match, it's simply not possible to calibrate bonded lamps. I will pop a pic up of the home made adjusters when I get 5 mins.
  14. Depends on the type of lens used. I replace all of mine with new hella 1L300 2850-06 units. I put 4 in, so you get 4 sidelights as it looks better, I wire up the dip as outside and main as inside but use a front fog lamp switch to have the outer mains come on if I want. Simple stainless threaded bar and little hooks put on the end made from the stainless inserts you get in windscreen wipers along with new stainless compression type springs hold them in. You can use the original plastic nuts to adjust if you use the right threaded bar.
  15. That headlamp kit is no good for the twin lamps.
  16. Not overflow by design, it's a breather, its to allow air back in the tank as petrol is removed by using the car and also to allow for any expansion and contraction of the fuel by heat/cold, and to let air out as you fill the tank up.
  17. Out to air, through the rubber bung on the left side on both mine. Around an inch sticks through the floor and exits in the axle tunnel area.
  18. Yup, Derek is very reputable, he's been in the opel world a very long time.
  19. I know a guy who have many mantas in Canada. I've even shipped him a vauxhall senator and a 20 ft container full of parts in the past. I'm sure this won't go to waste.
  20. I'm not on any other platform so I have no idea who Dave is or what he's up to. Morally it seems right to support the club, it's a kind of support it or lose it deal at this stage in the manta game, lets face it, the numbers are dwindling and it's not going to get better. Club officers work for free and spend their free time doing things like this so to be "beaten" to it" by a private individual who will possibly be making money out of it is a bit crappy. As an aside, I have a brand new boot floor for a coupe that could be copied if this still all goes ahead.
  21. Mind out for valve cutouts and crown profiles, if the dish and cut outs are not just right you could create an ultra high compression engine with no room for the valves to operate as designed.
  22. Nick Webb is in the middle of sourcing pistons and rings for cih, might be worth dropping him a line or pm. Calcol on here.
  23. When you put the timing case back on did you make sure you put the oil feed "O" ring in the head gasket and recess in the timing case? Its a bit vital and you only make that mistake once.
×
×
  • Create New...