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About alexwall

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  1. It's possible that the LHS-drive european GT/J's may have; yet, the 1000 RHS's built/imported for UK market didn't.. I'm Pretty sure of that. Besides, with all your good progress I'm sure you wouldn't want to add such a 'rust' magnet.
  2. Oooh yes, she's in! You know how us men always play-down how long fixing or fitting a thing will take? i.e. 10 miunutes.... Well, that is the only exageration made on the advertising page of this part. The kit - every single part is there and slid straight on and installation/alignment was mm perfect. Well almost, you may have to findle about with getting the filter to sit on snug and air tight, but no other bothers at all. All the bits you need are there and even a few more bits,... erm, where should that washer have gone? So, in conclusion the only false claim is that it'll take 10 mins to fit (actually: about half a day at a 'careful and easy does it rate'). The performance. That's not fully tested yet, but 'around the block' atleast shows a very noticeable increase in throttle response (massively!), it turned over first time (well, whilst the pump did its' work) and dare I say, the 33 y.o. GT/J now runs as smooth as a Merc does.. (I can only imagine) I've only one tip really James.. - The steel fuel line from the pump to the varajet will get thrown away and replaced with a flexi hose. So if you struggle to remove the locking type bolt that connects the pipe directly to the Vara (I rounded it straight off in two twists for instance), before reaching for the mole-grips I just flatten/squashed the steel pipe (dust prevention ingress) and hack-sawed hrough the pipe... it's a surprisingly strong bit of steel you'll find. Enjoy! It's a doodle. Too easy really, it barely needed 5 mins of fine-tunning even. (Actual 5 minutes of time, that is)
  3. Cheers for your reponse Steve, a mite untimely but useful to know nevertheless. Thankyou James, Oh yes! It arrived in the Midlands today. Opening the box, all the bits are there, (there's even new clips for attaching the new plastic/polymer fuel line supplied to the describded points on eng. block - i.e. replacing that fragile steel inlet pipe- which I ain't fancying will come off easy! & even a new in air line fuel filter and a cute instruction on handling petrol: be careful, flammable and it tastes bad) It looks the biz atleast, and a thing of beauty I must say! Every possibly required plate included, too many gaskets, vacuum hoses ports etc in all the right spots.. will report back on 'it'll only take take ten minutes' to fit in due time (i.e. sunday night !) Did I mention with the Varajet.. on mostly motorway driving, it gave me 200 miles tops on the 10 gallon tank? Hoping to see a change there! Incidentally, a 33 year old Vajaret II carb possibly for sale, (DETAILS ABOVE GIVEN) one careful owner, efficient , condition: USED, only to do 104k miles (.... thus! guaranteed functionality!). (and eh, James, don't get any undercutting ideas! )...and good look with your weekend job.
  4. Hey James, - I've seen that WLD reg plate before. Was it a Billing winner a couple of years back? or is it just on the front of most of the quarterly Mags? Anyway, very good progress on the Varajet to Weber conversion kits. I've placed an order infact. FYI. I asked them (http://www.atspeedracing.co.uk, Rolling Road - Engine Mapping - Carburettor Tuning - Competition Engines - Product Sales: tel: (+44) 01268-773377). (ME) - presenting this like a script upgrading an old auto-choke Varajet II carb on an Opel Manta B 1980, GT/J, 1997 CC, 2.0S ENGINE, COUPE, MANUAL TRANSMISSION All engine bay components are original…. Manifolds, links/linkages etc. I believe I’ve located the correct carb(s) below, are these defiantly the right parts for the two types? Is the Weber’s autochoke any good? - Would you stick with the original manual choke version or opt for the auto version? <damn! as if he’d overly recommend the manual, its £40 cheaper \o/ > Could you also advise me on the air filter assembly for the 32/36 DGV? I figure the current 12inch dish pan sitting on my Varajet may not be compatible. 1. Manual choke version kit: PART # 268093500 http://atspeedracing.co.uk/products/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_135_220_236_268&products_id=799 2. The Automatic choke version kit: PART # 2268058300 http://atspeedracing.co.uk/products/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_135_220_236_268&products_id=800 (QUICK RESPONSE FROM ATSPEEDRACING) Short answer. Yes. The auto choke is a good system. This kit is plug and play, if you can hold a screwdriver and you know what a spanner is, then you can fit it. It is designed to run with the original air cleaner and the carburettor comes calibrated. Should take no more than a couple of hours to fit <ed - as if > and will make a different car of it. James, Having phoned them just now.They’re the middle men and so he had to check stock availability with another supplier before a quick phone back to me. They have 4 of these auto-choke conversion kits available. Jeez \o/, I forgot to enquire about the stock quantitites of the manual choke versions; sorry. He also recommended booking thru the website as this speeds up the process. Hope this helps, (and processs ofthe conversion more importantly - least we forget!).. And! oooo, those prices don’t include VAT BTW! Caught me out.
  5. Nice choice! And even the countless hour's repainting them every few years is a joy. (If doing it on the cheap that is) For what it's worth, I deflate the tyres a bit to get a good mask depth down the tyre wall rim, sand for hours at 80 grit (both sides - then hammerite the inside of the rim), outer side - prime twice, 180 grit, then prime another twice and a quick 600 sand. Then four coats of silver wheels. Hammerite the quadrants with matt black, about 3 coats with an arts brush (apparently that's how there done in the factory) and finally clear coat them. (ooo.. and reinflate) I never had much luck with the stencil kits. Can't wait to finally see it
  6. Sorry, I didn't even answer your only question. Well, it would appear so, I've asked the sellers a few questions elctronically so far, I'll feed back relevency if appicable. ...ohh, a precision and smooth/meek carb. Imagine that if you can
  7. Well, as luck should happen, I posted the original thread (above) and then checked ebay. I've always wanted a conversion kit rather than all the bits and bobs in upgrading. Call me lazy or 'out of my depths with carbs'. Anyway, there's a mint condition 32/36 DGV on ebay ATM, (a sound guy in the Midlands, very knowledgable.. amazingly, I live 1 mile away from the man so we compared the parts diectly.. it could have fitted I'm sure with a bit of swearing and a new-base plate (i think) anyway, that part is still listed, a direct replacement for a Zenith 35/40 INAT for a 1.9 it was and remains. Close, but not close enough for a Varajet II swap (you didn't say what carb you have ?). With the above website I've emailed them as yes, like you, i've wanted a smooth carb replacement kit for a while.Only mailed them tonight but yes they do appear to have most OEM spanish webers. Even auto-coke versions. I'll pass on any info that they feed me back with. Yup, you're on the righ line lines with the 32/36 DGV. Not cheap, sure. But I tell myself, 'It'll pay-it's self off pretty soon'. One more thing, (don't know your curent carb is?) but would you pick an auto choke weber over a manual? Coz that's my next decision, should seem an easy choice really? Although if you have some experience? Best regards
  8. Issues solved.. but thanks for reading http://atspeedracing.co.uk/products/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103_135_220_236_268&products_id=799
  9. I was hoping for a little advice and if anyone has one for sale that would be be excellent. The original Varajet II has been in my GTJ for all it's life, and so imaginably(!).. It doesn't run particularly smooth and I've taken the Varajet apart so many times (to tinker and clean etc) I fear I've only achieved to actually downgrade it's efficiency somewhat. With so many comments that you can get a much smoother run out of a webber instead, I'm convinced this is the next project worthy of some time. I've been told by mechanics that there's a 'simple' four 4 bolt conversion kit - 'it'll slot on dead easy' he says. Yet, I've not bumped into one at auto jumbles. Of the little research I've done I suspect I'd need a 32/36DGV. As I say, I'm far from an expert on carbs. So, if you know/have a bit of knowledge on the ness weber, or one for sale, please be in touch. The car is a 1980 registered Manta B, GT/J, 1979 cc, coupe. - Pictured on Stradacab's Project J restoration (http://forums.mantaclub.org/topic/16997-project-j/page-2) : entry #37. I believe there's an automatic and manual type possible route available, either would be both considered (yet again? which would be the best?) Any tips you may be able to throw my way, would be mucho appreciated
  10. Fine progress sir, cracking! - keep it green thou Deviating off the topic slightly; onto a carb question specifically, the 2.0s - for which I assume all the UK GT/J RHD (80's ish) models were [...2 litre & varajet II fed..also assuming]. Have you any advice on carb upgrades? - Even if the originally fitted auto choke Varajet II was originally any good.. I've taken it apart so many times to 'fine-tune', a new carb is next on the list. I've heard a Weber 32/36DGV would be the way forwards? Any thoughts?
  11. Hi there, I've had very little luck in even seeing what an image of what the pivot bracket looks like from the two work shop manuals I have. Yet, I assume that the alternator bottom pivot bracket (that the bottom of the alternator would slot between and aluminium looking with bolts to the block with two bolts) allows the alternator to be clamped at both ends at the base with the adjustable slider at the top. Seems sensible.. yet it looks as if one arm has sheared off from the bracket... I was pretty sure I heard something falling off on the motorway and around the the point I had slippage on the fan belt!! It's very curious that that front part of the bracket sheared off the engine mounted bracket initially and then at some point then slipped off the rubbery flaired gasket type thing that the long pivot bolt goes through. Actually I guess it's not when you put it into words Anyway, I've mackled a solution for the short term but to anybody with one to sell, please respond to this post and solve whether the bracket does indeed have two arms. Thankyou, Alex Wall, alexwall@rock.com 07814 262 696 Oh yes.. and It's for an 1980 Manta B, 2L GT/J
  12. Not a problem at all my friend. I was thinking of a question posted on the first entry of this thread, of numbers left. It was a while back, but I do remember a chap saying there's only 16 GT/J's registered on the DVLA registry. For bits and pieces of that I've had no luck at in finding on ebay etc, Steven Titmuss in Northants has alot of bit's at his lock-ups.
  13. Good work on the J restoration project. It's nice to see a '80 GT/J adorned with a bit of TLC. My pine green GT/J has been in the family for 30 years, and I've yet to see another on the road. WHich is why it's nice to see your project Here's mine in Leicestershire I've tried to keep it original, but I've a thing for lourves..
  14. Wanted: A black front bumper for a 1980 GT/J Coupe Manta B. The bumper has four fastenings: two steel arms that bolt into the beginning of the box section chasis and two smaller fittings near the tips of the bumper goings into the front wings. Any condition considered aslong as it's a better replacement to the one I currently have - mine now has a kink in the centre (number-plate) section after a low speed bump into a tree, even after knocking it out, it is still noticeable. I can be contacted at alexwall@rock.com if you harbour such a item. Thanks for reading. Alex
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