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Everything posted by Ems

  1. Welcome to the club. Do you teach in Lynham?
  2. Being nosey I asked about the transmission and it has a Manta 1.8 box and standard axle!
  3. I got these bolts from Edelschmiede when I built my Manta.
  4. The 4.22 diff is a motorsport option if I remember correctly. That's at least £1k worth of axle if it's a ZF LSD.
  5. You can get the filler neck rubber from Edelschmiede
  6. I haven't seen this one before, but I know of another four Mantas within half an hour of where I live.
  7. I saw a metallic green coupe heading towards Aberystwyth yesterday around 4.45pm. Was it anyone from the club?
  8. I've done the same with my car, no problems MOT time and looks better.
  9. From the car tax website the red GT/E has been off the road for 21 years, the 400r 18 years and the white one 3 years. Also there were no pictures of the roofs!
  10. Ems

    Paint blisters

    I'm useless at anything involving, sanding, filler and paint so anything I do will probably increase the costs! I took the car to another body shop and they've confirmed that it will need taking back to bear metal as the moisture could be in the primer or paint. Whenever the time arrives for paint I'll change the sills - the ones on the car now have been fitted too high. I've also got a roll cage from my old car taking up space in the shed so I'll fit that as well.
  11. Ems

    Paint blisters

    Thanks for the replies, yes it's the car in the profile picture. It had several blisters before but they're out in force now. I've got a lot of Bilt Hamber products in the shed - stocked up after buying a T4 Caravelle! The arches were bonded to the shell when I got the car. My explanation wasn't clear, the fibreglass hasn't cracked - the cracks are around the edges of the arches where it meets the body. It looks like filler has been used here as opposed to something flexible like tiger seal. I've also been told that the shell would have to be taken back to bare metal, before a re-spray - something I can't afford at the moment unfortunately.
  12. During winter a lot more paint blisters have appeared on the car, some of them have cracked. Parts of the filler where the rear arches bond to the body have also cracked, The car needs a full respray, when money allows as all steel and fibreglass panels have bubbles. The car is out in the open and used all year round. Should I leave most of them alone and just treat anything rusty, or sand everything down and brush/roller paint for now? Thanks
  13. I use kc daylighters on mine (early metal backed quads)
  14. Had a quick check today, only movement is in the donut which is in good condition. I put a standard one on last time as the heavy duty ones kept on cracking, maybe I should get another heavy duty one.
  15. It's got a steel torque tube, so that should be ok.
  16. Yes it's speed related, the vibration stops when I ease off - and comes back if I accelerate to the same speed again. The gearbox mount is the uprated type from edelschmiede, I'll check everything on the weekend. It's not the noise from the gear lever, it sounds as if it's somewhere between the handbrake lever and back seats.
  17. There is a vibration and noise coming from the area around the middle of the gear tunnel when travelling at motorway speeds. At lower speeds and under acceleration there's no noise or vibration. The diff had new bearings around 5000 miles ago and I fitted a new torque tube donut, bearing and bushes last year. I've had a quick look under the car and it looks like the gearbox and diff oil seals have leaked a bit as well, these were also changed last year. I know the gearbox needs a new input shaft bearing as it's noisy. Does anyone have any ideas on what's causing the problem? Thank you.
  18. Thank you for the information, think I need to increase the value of my car for insurance purposes.
  19. The description for the car has gone. To get this sort of money was it low mileage, one owner, unmodified, etc? What restoration did it need?
  20. It was a members car, I thought all the information other than chassis number and colour would have been the same on all GT/E coupes. The colour is polar white.
  21. When I got my GT/E it didn't have a VIN plate with it. The chassis number on the floor is still there so I have no problems when it's MOT time, but I want to get a VIN plate for it. It's a 1985 GT/E coupe in white - can anyone give the the information I need to complete the VIN for this car and colour combination? Thank you
  22. I've been using Wilwood Midilite for around 8 years. The car is on the road all year round and I haven't had any problems to date, I've only changed pads and discs during this time. I'm sure some on here use Astra GT/E or mk3 Cavalier calipers with 256mm discs.
  23. Last week I had no indicators on my Manta. All the earths were fine, it turned out to be a problem with the rear light cluster, a burnt out relay and the indicator/hazard switch assembly.
  24. It was reading ok until a couple of months ago, so I'll check the voltage inside the car. I didn't know the voltage gauge could be adjusted, still learning things after all these years!
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