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Brown Job

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Everything posted by Brown Job

  1. Hi folks, Just to say that I'm having the same issue as cam-in-head and can't reply to my own topic on the diff as above! But I can PM people, so if you've answered me in the topic and wondering why you've not received a reply on the Forum, that's why. So please check your PMs if you're waiting for my answer to anything you've said in reply to my post. Sorry, but it's not my fault, electronic communication has bitten me in the bum again! BJ
  2. Hi, am emerging from the pit of oblivion with a plea for help. I need the crownwheel and pinion assembly for a 19S car, ratio 3.67:1. Been dead unlucky, Road axle on car found to have the pinion shot, spare axle has both crownwheel and pinion shot! As we all know, this is incredibly rare, what happens in 99 cases out of 100 is that it's the pinion bearings that go on these cars. OK, so I'm the 100th case twice over. Can anyone help with an axle they no longer need? I just need the crownwheel and pinion in decent nick suitable for re-use, or could take the whole diff if someone torches it off through the shaft tube once they've removed the halfshafts. Whole axle is of course very heavy and unwieldy, would cost a fortune to ship around the country strapped to a pallet. Will pay carriage unless part is within about 40 mile radius of Chester. Please? BJ
  3. PM sent to you, Mr. Norman. Green Parts have no trims like this of either side, or didn't when I asked them. BJ
  4. Hi folks, Restoring a Cavalier 1 and it's missing the front lefthand hockey stick trim from under the bumper. Any around from a car being broken/has been stripped, please? Oh, and a front downpipe wouldn't go amiss. BJ
  5. There's a very good classic screen fitting company in Padeswood nr Mold, if you are N. Wales and not sorted yet. BJ
  6. Oh dear. Can't speak for the A-series, but yep, it is all too familiar for the B-series/Cav 1. I have swapped 2 axles to get rid of this wear and tear and noise on deceleration, but will eventually have to go for proper rebuild when the stock of "better" axles runs out. There is a bloke in Holland does rebuilds and parts, try M&M Dronten to see if they will source for you from him, or give you his contact details. Unless anyone knows a closer to home option? You can occasionally get the B-series rebuild kits on ebay but the whole setup is quite fiddly to do, with shims etc. BJ
  7. OK thanks for the info Ian. Not being into this sort of thing meant I had no idea that the safety equipment was transferrable. I still say it looks like a lot of work just to paint the damn' things, but the graffiti boys under our subway seem to do "artwork" pretty quickly! Maybe what niggled me was seeing that bumper trim trailing on the floor post-shunt, when I couldn't get one of those for love nor money when I needed it a couple of years back. BJ
  8. I just don't get it. Why do people spend good money on a car, spend more money and time preparing it like that, in the CERTAIN KNOWLEDGE it's going to end up smashed to hell? OK, it's a risk you take with a rally car, but you don't take that out knowing it will get mangled - damage would be accidental in a rally or classic race car. BJ
  9. Hi honeys, I'm hoo-oome! Simon's sorted my membership. Nice to be back. BJ
  10. Hi, it's me, Brown Job, just scratching at the door and whining to be let back in ... paid by cheque a few weeks ago but still locked out of the Forum and no Club card sent out. I promise not to chew the furniture or chase the cat again if you'll just let me back in, I won't even climb on the sofa ... probably. BJ
  11. Yeah, lucky to have a spare car available so it takes the heat off this job a bit. But if you have a nut - any nut - from the same type of stud elsewhere on the carb, you don't have to wind the stud out. Just take them the nut, they will screw it onto the correct bolt from their stock, that gives you the dia/thread type, and you know what nuts to buy. Or contach Webcon, I think they are the best Weber agent I dealt with. BJ
  12. Umm. Well, no, I don't know the thread, but if you get in touch with one of the UK Weber agents, they will tell you and sell you the correct nut. Or, you could take the car to your local nut and bolt supplier (such as Leyton Fasteners of Ellesmere Port), undo one of the remaining nuts (without losing that one!) take it in and they'll match it for you. I would have thought Weber would be a standard fine metric thread. If not, my best guess is that it's BSF or UNF. Conceivably BA, but that's more likely to turn up on electrical fittings. BJ
  13. You defo need to sort out the carb, get it set up and get the manual choke working. I actually did my swap specifically to sort out choke problems, and I promise you the manual choke works very well on these cars. But you can overfuel easily - I pull mine to full choke to start, then immediately drop back to not more than 2/3 or maybe half (depends on temperature) on the choke control. Don't try running on full choke, they don't like it. You can reduce down to about 1/4 choke after maybe 1/2 mile, again depends on temp and exactly how the car is set up. Fuel consumption and state of your plugs will show how well it's set up, just for starters, but it needs setting properly and you then get a pretty good blend of performance and economy. BJ
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