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Binnacle-ZA

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Binnacle-ZA last won the day on October 9 2018

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About Binnacle-ZA

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    Rekord
  • Birthday 14/12/1990

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    Male
  • Location
    South Africa
  • Name
    Peter

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  1. Loads of part numbers here: https://spareto.co.uk/products/0-986-010-690-starter This is the later, uprated Frontera 2.4 Starter. Much lighter and way stronger. I think the more affordable alternatives are rebuilds Or here for the 88 more specifically. https://spareto.co.uk/t/vehicles/opel/opel-manta-b-58-59-2-dot-0-e/electrics/starter-system/starter I've bought from spareto before, but you might not be willing to wait that long for dispatch, but it's otherwise an extremely useful site for part numbers and alternatives
  2. Anyone know if there's an easy way to tell which shape of front pad to use without simply disassembling the caliper to check? I know the rule is pre/post 1974, but I've got (supposedly) a 75, but I'm pretty sure when the pads were last done, they were the pre-74 shape... And I'm pretty sure they are the 246mm ones, although I haven't actually measured them I know when last changed they were actually rear pads from a 123 series Mercedes Benz, which from what I've seen are the squarer shape pads. Any help very, very much appreciated
  3. Wanting the sub-loom for the electronic ignition. The one that goes between the distributor, coil and controller. Also wanting the Coil Bracket with the mount for the controller. Many thanks!
  4. Happy Old Year 🎉 Anyway, I've seen a couple threads with similar topics, but all get resolved with someone buying a fix. Which I am open to, but looking for a fix with what I've got for times sake. So, I've got the correct JHFU4 distributor in good condition, I've got a Bosch electronic coil, and a VW 7pin controller, which looks to be right. It's all the bits in between that I'm missing. What I do have, is a loom from a 2.2 with the full electronic ignition with the extra bits. What that means is I've got a whole load of wires, with the correct plugs, but all the wires not going to the right places. So I'm looking for a good wiring diagram going to each pin on each component. Many thanks in Advance! I've got a wanted ad separate to this one Here
  5. Also interested in this. From what I remember, someone once had some luck with mid 90s Honda civic regulators. Although I could be remembering wrong. I thing one of the problems with those universal kits is they still use the mechanical regulator, so if you've got any slop, that's not so great. They are also a bit slow from what I've seen. And, as far as I know, can't do any auto down/up. I would really want auto down, personally
  6. I'm not entirely sure it's the same thing, but I've been looking at a set of these: https://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/navi.php?a=1514&lang=eng Sounds like they just wear out over time
  7. Oh wow, that's way more complicated than I was expecting... You should have PM re the loft.
  8. Thanks 611, that would be very helpful.
  9. This is a slightly odd question. A Series with, what I think is, the later style centre console and a busted ashtray. Mine has always been broken, and am now tired of having a hole in the console, but also find car ashtrays useful places to keep spare change etc. Pics of what I've got at the moment. If someone could provide an example of how they should be, that'd be extremely appreciated. Not sure I'll be able to anything about it, but I might as well have a go. Amazing how a close up picture makes the plastic look terrible...
  10. 1-3-4-2. Looks Ok. But it looks like you've got a rotated Dizzy (180deg). This can happen when the timing is set off the wrong cylinder or something. I've seen it before, in fact, mine is the same (wasn't always, ). It can work fine, but isn't technically correct. The link below has a useful PDF. CIH tune up It's about the Bosch dizzys, but the same principles stand for us with Delcos.
  11. Neither, Mineral based (Shell Helix HX5 25w60 and Shell Helix HX3 20w50 - Don't know if either of these are available in the UK.) Gaskets was the thinnest available (I forget the size) Relief is in case, flat gear cover. Re: Assumptions: Oil pickup is one of the unknowns. Filter is brand new. Level is correct, leaning towards possibly overfilled. Rotor/Casing clearance is another unknown. Filter bypass is working, "looked" alright.
  12. 19S, will assume that's the same as the 20S. But I'm not sure where the timing cover comes from. With gasket, as gears protrude slightly with straight edge. (but it's so thin I thought it was a sticker.) Cover was machined flat few months ago. Currently using 20w50 was on 25w60, almost no discernible difference. 25W60 was better at idle though.
  13. Peaks at around 4, then drops to 2, then rises to 3, then back to 4 for a bit then down a bit then up a bit... That kind of fluctuating. Never pegs either way (unless the car is off.) Oil light comes on if it drops below 0.8 (<1). Needle moves smoothly, doesn't jump to new positions. Checked the wiring first, probably should have mentioned that, all seems good/ok. Gauge had decent calibration at the beginning of the year.
  14. I seem to ask a lot of oil pump related questions... Anyway: What does a fluctuating oil pressure tell me when the engine is at constant, high RPM? This happens at about any rpm, although I notice it most around 3k. It is worse when warm, which I suppose makes sense. As the warm, "thinner" oil is making whatever it is worse. Worn pump gears? Worn Housing? Bad Pressure Regulator (Don't think it is this, if I'm honest)? Something else? I know my gears aren't great, as they can't generate enough pressure at a normal idle, but would this lead to a changing pressure when the gears should be spinning at a constant speed? Or could bad gear lash be causing this? How likely is it that a hole in, or a loosely attached, sump pickup pipe could cause this? Or alternatively worn Main Bearings? ( <-These are my best guesses if it isn't the pump.) Other symptoms include a long pressure build up time when starting cold. Usually only picks up after the engine has started, so there's often a horrendous clatter for a few seconds before the lifters lube up. PS. I have got replacement gears on order, but it seems the entirety of Germany has gone on holiday, so the delivery has been delayed. And I decided there was a possibility of there being another cause in addition to the bad gears. Cheers
  15. Thanks Tony I knew the GT/E was injected, just wasn't sure if it was ever available in RHD markets.
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