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mantaray

Executive Committee
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Everything posted by mantaray

  1. Hello and welcome. Would be great to see some pics of your car as I guess it will have a different spec. to the UK models.
  2. How much is my car worth? This is the most common question asked, shown below are typical prices. (2018) Concours cars - £10,000+ Fully restored examples don't come up for sale very often but expect to pay £10,000 + for one with a good build quality and photographic evidence of the restoration work. Condition 1 - £5000 + These are not concours or mint cars but they must be original in appearance. Restoration work should be to a high standard with correct detailing and not just temporary cosmetic rejuvenation. Bodywork and paintwork should be relatively unmarked with correct panel gaps and shut lines. Interiors should be inviting and undamaged. They should have a current MOT with fit mechanicals. Engines should not display low oil pressure, excessive consumption or smoke. Gearboxes clutch and axles should be in proper working order. History should be available in part or in full. Condition 2 - £3000 Cars in this category should be of reasonable appearance requiring some attention to paintwork but not requiring major panel replacement. Interiors should be complete and relatively original, possibly needing carpets and localised retrimming. They should also have a current MOT and major components such as engine, gearbox & back axle should be in working order and not require any immediate serious expenditure. Ancillaries like alternators, starter motors, shock absorbers etc. may need replacement. Condition 3 - £1000 These are not ruins with cob webs, but running cars. They will be tatty and need extensive paintwork and body repairs, mechanical reconditioning and interior work. They will show signs of poor quality repairs and be in part non-original. They will have had many owners and be of high mileage. Further Information Prices have started to rise over the last few years. Provided the standard of engineering is high, modifying a car doesn't reduce its value. The Turbo model is worth roughly double the value of the standard model. The SR/Rallye with manual transmission is considered to be the most desirable standard model. The deluxe with automatic transmission is considered to be the least desirable model.
  3. What do the numbers on the chassis plate mean? The chassis plate is an aluminium plate and is fixed to the body by two rivets. Location It is located on the offside front (drivers side in the UK) chassis rail in front of the brake servo and close to the exhaust manifold. This page shows the information you can discover about your Manta A from it. Chassis number e.g. 599976542 This is an x or xx digit number which carries three pieces of information. Model Code Year Code Sequential Serial Number 59 9 976542 The 1st & 2nd digits describe the model of the car, UK cars should be 59 which means Manta A 'L' . Other numbers could be 57 - Manta A USA or 58 - Manta A. The 3rd digit shows the approximate year of manufacture as described in the following table: Year Code Year Produced 2 1970 - August 1972 9 August 1972 - August 1973 8 August 1973 - August 1974 5 August 1974 - August 1975 The remaining xx digits are a body serial number. So our example 599976542, is a Manta A 'L' produced between August 1972 and August 1973 of serial no. 976542 Body Colour code & Trim code This is a letter followed by two groups of three digits which carry two pieces of information. The 1st group of three numbers tell you the paint code/colour 2nd group of three numbers tells you the trim colour. This information can be summarised in the table below: Paint Code Colour Trim Code Cloth Colour Trim Code Vinyl Colour 416 Arctic White 301 311 341 351 391 Beige Blue Red Black Black 711 721 741 751 791 Blue Light Gray Red Black Black 408 Sierra Beige 301 341 351 Beige Red black 721 741 751 Light Gray Red Black 446 Citrus Yellow 301 351 Beige Black 751 791 Black Black 411 Ochre 351 391 Black Black 751 791 Black Black 529 Flame Red 351 391 Black Black 751 791 Black Black 503 Cardinal Red 341 351 391 Red Black Black 721 741 751 791 Light Gray Red Black Black 530 Tarragona Red 205 Logo Blue 311 351 Blue Black 711 751 Blue Black 204 Cosmos Blue 311 351 Blue Black 711 751 791 Blue Black Black 134 Granite Grey 311 341 351 Blue Red Black 711 741 751 Blue Black Black 404 Sahara Gold Metallic 301 351 391 Beige Black Black 721 751 791 Light Gray Black Black 235 Monza Blue Metallic 311 351 391 Blue Black Black 711 721 751 791 Blue Light Gray Black Black 412 Bronze Metallic 351 391 Black Black 721 751 791 Light Gray Black Black 304 Pampus Green Metallic 301 351 391 Beige Black Black 721 751 791 Light Gray Black Black 135 Silver Metallic 311 341 351 391 Blue Red Black Black 711 741 751 791 Blue Black Black Black 420 Costarica Brown 301 351 451 Beige Black Black 721 751 791 Light Gray Black Black
  4. mantaray

    Manta Resto

    if you are not bothered about it being 4 linked, then you can mount it like the original axle.i have a 4ha axel on my A using all the original mounting points.
  5. Box has gone away for the rebuild, so while the engine is out, I have decided to give it a bit of a freshen up. Altho the cam belt has only done about 2k it is over 14 years old, so new cam kit was ordered. Changing the cam belt will also give me the chance to swop the current "A" Ex cams for some "G" cams. New cam seals fitted. New kit fitted and all timed up. It was a good job that I did strip the engine down, as on removing the clutch cover I found that the drive plate was starting to break up. More expense to get an upgraded clutch kit.
  6. Interesting read never bothered with striping an alternator down, I have always bought a re-coned exchange one.
  7. The next Midlands area meet, will be on Friday evening the 20th April from about 7.30 pm at the Royal Horse, Poseidon Way, Leamington Spa, Warwickshire, CV34 6SW,
  8. Looking for advice Have any of you had any experience of either Hi-Torque or Drive-Touque clutch kits?
  9. I took it to the crusher on the trailer. I did look at re-paring it, but the cost was too high. So went down the re-shell route. the boot lid, doors are on my current A, and the nose-corn is on Simon P Manta A estate.
  10. Wow, been a while since I added to this thread. The car made it to the NEC, for the Classic Motor Show, and drew a lot of attention but the gearbox was still whining, so I guess that it was not the thrust bearing after all. In Jan 2017 while cleaning the car I found that the paintwork had micro blistered all over the roof and boot lid. So she went back to the paint shop to get it sorted. In the end, we ended up repainting both rear quarters, boot lid and roof. The engine has now been removed again so I get get the gearbox sent away for a rebuild and hopefully stop the whining.
  11. Repair panel does not have the lip. You will need to joggle the lip on yourself. To do this you will need a tool like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/221845805694?chn=ps&adgroupid=49962971442&rlsatarget=pla-378951013622&abcId=1129946&adtype=pla&merchantid=113691900&poi=&googleloc=1006656&device=c&campaignid=974960578&crdt=0
  12. Lots of info on the X20Xe swop on the forum. try searching for 16valve, redtop in the search and spend a few evening going through the results.
  13. Got petrol tank, does have a dent to underside but is solid. £40 collection from Coventry.
  14. My car will also be MOT exempt but I will still get an MOT each year. Rather be safe than sorry.
  15. Would have been worth giving it a coat of paint before you put it back together, or maybe you did but didn't take a pic LOL Good fix BTW.
  16. Along with regalia shop. The green A you can just see was owned by Paul Crotty and is now owned by Graham Taylor.
  17. DM should be PM (personal message),
  18. http://biggred.co.uk/ can supply parts but also do a full refurb for around £100 / pair
  19. Chances are it will be the rear cylinder pistons are stuck, Dismantle the rear shoes and remove the brake cylinder from the backing plate. If you now remove the rubber boots from both ends the pistons can be pushed out. Clean everything up and reassemble, assuming the seals are good.
  20. If you can get your self one of these books, lots of good easy to understand DIY. the diagram above looks like it has been taken from this book. https://haynes.com/en-gb/opel-ascona-manta-b-series-sept-75-88-haynes-repair-manual
  21. And that was just the Manta Club, no VBOA at Billing in those days.
  22. Don't know about the others, but the white A series in the background is definitely dead, I crunched it in 97. The i200 is still around.
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