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bris jas

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bris jas last won the day on April 14

bris jas had the most liked content!

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About bris jas

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    88 Manta V8, 86 GTE Coupe, 76 Coupe, 83 Coupe
  • Name
    Jason Honey

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  1. I have an electric aerial on my 86 coupe, no hanging out of the window needed!😂
  2. Try this link, i bought one last year and fits the pins spot on. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-4-Piece-Car-Door-Hinge-Pin-Extractor-Removal-Tool-Extractor-Set-VS801/311596359195?epid=11017008001&hash=item488c971e1b:g:bmQAAOSw9OFZKDPd&frcectupt=true
  3. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/opel-manta-x2/333167184797?hash=item4d924fcb9d:g:7OYAAOSwTo1cvffE&frcectupt=true
  4. Thanks for the kind words Ian. Ok so onto the rear of the o/s, this is what i started with- All the inner sections behind the outer cill are badly rusted as well, also as you can see the rear seat belt mount area is badly rusted First job is to remove all the rusted areas back to a point where it is best to fabricate new sections Firstly i made a plate to repair the seat belt point, i made this 10mm bigger so i could weld it both sides, one side it usually enough but just for piece of mind. I then reattached the threaded section. Also welded in a small piece to the inner cill corner. All most forgot to mention the floor area behind the centre cross member, didn't take a picture of it before but here is the plate i made up held in place with clamps. I left it like this over night, mainly because i ran out of time but to also help relieve some of the tension on the fabricated section, if you look at your cars or take a close look at this picture you will see the different curves and angles of this section, i wanted to make in one piece for strength, following day i welded it in and well happy with the result So back to the rear section, first i made the inner cill that attaches to the floor and jacking point, once welded in i then set about the section that continues down from the inner 1/4 panel . Click to choose files Once all in i then finished off by making up the section of the bottom of the b post, which carries down and attaches to the middle section above (section with the holes in) Treated with hydrate 80 All ready now for the new outer cill to be fitted....
  5. Ok so haven't updated this for a couple of months, i have been busy on the o/s. Pretty much the same needed doing as the n/s more or less- This side had an outer over cill fitted, great for an mot pass but bad for corrosion later on as where the cill was welded on, especially the floor it had caused more corrosion. The chassis leg had gone a bit crusty aswell Firstly i removed the jacking point and floor section a long with the outer skin of the chassis rail The plan was to make all good in front of the middle cross member, this will stop any chance of things moving if i was to chop out the floor further back. The inner strengthening section of the leg was in great shape which surprised me, i gave it a good check around and coated it in Hydrate 80 before welding the outer section on i had made. I then replaced the floor section a long with a new jacking point The section in front of the jacking point like the other side is tricky to get right, but came out a treat. The section in front of the A pillar wasn't as bad as the other side but still needed a small amount of repair as did the inner arch by where the accelarator pedal attaches. I managed to remove the small angled bracket you can see above and reuse One small plate was needed on the A pillar also. Onto the rear floor/inner cill section next!
  6. Just noticed this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Ascona-400R/293045049981?hash=item443ad89a7d:g:Js0AAOSw59Jcr7ei
  7. That piece adds strength to the pillar so best to keep it, basically when i repair mine i bring it down and curve it back towards the middle section. Weld it to that section then when the cill goes back on it buts to the inner cill which your lucky is in such good condition, you then drill holes in the cill and weld up through to the flange of the middle section. Hope that makes some sense!
  8. Just had D91 MOP (GTE) insured again and with an agreed value of £9000. As you say they are definently creeping up.
  9. Keep going with the arches if your not happy, there are a few lines and curves to get right but well worth the hours and dust once painted and looking right!
  10. Well done, looks like a good buy and welcome back to the club!
  11. Their cills are good as i've fitted those aswell, sounds like you have a plan to sort the door gap, good luck. I have in the past put a piece of wood at the top of the door 3x2 between the i/4 panel and frame, always place a piece of card around the wood as not to damage the paint and carefully push the bottom corner of the door, if you are to paint the door you can always give it a tap with a piece of wood and hammer, then remove wood and check if the door has gone in at all, just repeat until you are happy with the lower door to 1/4 fitment.
  12. What make of cill are you using, also just to be clear (for me anyway), is the gap ok at the front towards the a post but tapers to a much smaller gap at the b post end. Also the bottom corner of the door pertrudes out past the 1/4 but the top is ok?
  13. Yep. i've always used the rear bumper holes, i also put large plate washers on the back just to spread the load as much as possible.
  14. Just removed my disc this morning, M10!
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