As the bottom of the car is finished and the rear axle installed i then started on the front, again it was fully powdered coated and new or treated bolts used.
New bushes and steering gaitors. The springs are 40mm lowered, i have fitted these before and have liked the stance of the car.
Just a heads up on the rear axle, if you ever get one powdered coated and blasted make sure you removed the crown and pinion and ball bearing races, i removed the half shafts and axle cover then masked all open sections, the guy who blasted it then masked again just to make sure.
When i got it back the the crown and pinion were very hard to turn, i washed out the axle but it just got worst and wouldn't turn, nightmare! I stripped it right down and found all the bearings full of the fine blasting material, took me half a day and 6 cans of SAS spray to clean out the bearings, all back in now and turning freely.
So onto the doors, the n/s just needed a small plate and forgot to take a pic of that.
O/s door was shot along the bottom, i did see a few doors for sale but all were around £100 and needed small bits of repair. So decided to fix mine, it fitted so well on the hinges and the gaps were good so worth trying to keep it.
First i got hold of a donour door, only one i could get was a n/s, removed the lower frame, o/s and n/s lower inner frames are very similiar apart from the front and rear sections where they curve up around the corners
With lower frame removed
New lower frame istalled and outer skin cut back to solid metal, this is where the fun begins. So i had to make my own lower door skin with retun flange. Above is a piece of metal i removed from the donor door, 10mm bigger top and bottom, the 10mm at the bottom will be the returned flange and 10mm at the top will stepped as below.
I then clamped the metal to an old spirit level and carefully planished the bottom lip around to make the start of the flange
Once done checked the measuremants against the door and welded it in place
Welding about an inch at a time to stop any heat distortion, i would also after 10 welds planish the area using hammer and dolly just to help keep the panel straight, anyway all went to plan and came out a treat.
I then planished the bottom flange around the bottom of the frame and added welds about 6" apart. Then put the door back on and kept my fingers crossed🤞
Couple of raised areas to address but looks great and gaps spot on!
I have a few more pic's of the door on the car but ran out of MB's space and can't seem to add any more even if i do a new reply!
Anyway panels all finished now, just refitted the boot and all fit well, next job it onto fitting the bodykit. Never done one before buy quite looking forward to it!
Yes i seam welded them all around and also the small cap on the top, my track manta has the same set up but the tops are connected to a cage, never had any issues with that and the project car will never get anywhere near the stress that the track one does.
When you say Rods?