bris jas

Just to add to Iains advice above, before masking go around the whole car, every joint, seal etc and blow out with an air line. What i always do as well is blow the floor of the garage out after i've swepted it, make sure this is done the day before you paint, then wet it before you lay on the first coat (making sure not to splash any on the car)!

Wasn't this one up for sale last month, thought it sold though!

Looks great Mike, you must be well happy to get her home, like i mentioned before the details on finishing makes the difference between an A or B restoration, yours looks A+! Where did you get the cover from and is water proof or more like an internal dust cover?

Can't believe i haven't updated my thread since April, where does the time go! Next job now that the shell is rust free and solid was to fit the Volvo 240 rear axle, this is how it was And after i had removed the bits i didn't need for fitting So first i offered it up to the car to see how far away the mounting points were compared to the original manta, yep no where near and nothing i could use apart from the body mount for the panard rod. Once the axle was cental between the arches i then took loads of measurements to ensure the axle was square and in the correct position, once happy with that i then went about making up new mounting sections The nut will recess into the chassis leg as i want the bracket to fit flush for maximum welding I tacked them in place first then refitted the axle to make sure all measurements were ok, all good so welded them in, also added a strengthing plate between the 2. For ease i removed the panard rod mount from the manta axle and fitted to the Volvo axle, this way i can just use manta bushes on both ends. As the mount on the Volvo axle is closer to the centre than the manta one i made up an adjustable panard, this will also help to get the axle set up later on. (i forgot to take any pic's of this but will once back from the power coaters!). As i want to fit rear seat to the manta i didn't want box sections inside so for the upper arms, after lots of thought alignment i managed to position the mounting points so i only had to make very shallow covering sections. Final fitment of the axle to make sure all clears and sits where it should. I couldn't get the spring and shock to work as they are located the other way around to the manta and the chassis was just in the way so i've had coilovers made, they will mount in the original shock inner arch mount position, i seamed welded this for extra strength so should be ok as my track manta is set up the same (although does have a cage) never had an issue there. The rear and front axles have been completely stripped, all bushes removed ready for superpro bushes after its all been powder coated, just to mention the rear anti roll bar goes around the rear of the axle and attaches to both lower arms and not the body. Once all happy i then finished prepping the underbody, checking all seems with sealer before masking up and spraying in Upol Raptor. Just got the newly dipped and treated bolts etc back today, so just waiting on the suspension parts back from the powder coaters then i can fit them both suspensions up and get them back on the car. Next stage after that will be to drop the car onto stands and start to fit the kit!! Hope your still awake after reading all this 🤞.

As you say Danny best do it all now and hopefully never again, good choice on the legs. Good luck on the build.

Car looks great Mike, as they say the finish is in the detail.

Looking very nice there Mike, quick question on your door hinge pins. Never seen 2 piece before, is it something you have made or bought? I would think they would be harder to knock in once the door is hung? Always open to new ideas

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-manta/163696977640?hash=item261d19a6e8:g:AQ8AAOSwLuJc4WuA&frcectupt=true

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OPEL-MANTA-400-TRIBUTE-REPLICA/233231243555?hash=item364daa5923:g:5TwAAOSwYPNc39vI Looks very nice and a good stance.

Ian, i'm sure you do but make sure you blow every small pin hole out in the sanded filler before you lay more, sometimes if there is dust under filler or more problems with fine filler, it can cause the stopper to be dragged out. Hopefully couple more passes and your be happy to spray on some primer

Andy i know you've tried Tim at TJM, if no joy Retropower stock some bits. Are you after the inner swan necks as well? Battery tray might be harder to find, when i was looking i could only find LHD trays, might get lucky with second hand but as we know common section to rot. Good luck with the build Jason

That does look clean, is it known to the club?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1976-Opel-Manta-B-1900-Auto/173896582157?hash=item287d0b440d:g:PKcAAOSw3bBcrbyn&frcectupt=true Looks like a good car, shame about the pic's and lack of.

If you can try and remove as many parts that may get in the way as you can, will make the job easier and make it a lot less frustrating trying to work around things and also saves them possibly getting damaged. Outer cills you can get from TJM motorsport or Retropower, inners your have to make yourself. Chassis, as above looks good or if you check out my last build on D91 MOP you can see the ones i used.

On my V8 manta with a Facet pump it runs all the time on ignition, you can tell when it reaches pressure as it changes tune but the pump keeps on humbing, what pump are you running? Are you running carbs or injection?