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bris jas

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Everything posted by bris jas

  1. I have an electric aerial on my 86 coupe, no hanging out of the window needed!😂
  2. Try this link, i bought one last year and fits the pins spot on. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-4-Piece-Car-Door-Hinge-Pin-Extractor-Removal-Tool-Extractor-Set-VS801/311596359195?epid=11017008001&hash=item488c971e1b:g:bmQAAOSw9OFZKDPd&frcectupt=true
  3. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/opel-manta-x2/333167184797?hash=item4d924fcb9d:g:7OYAAOSwTo1cvffE&frcectupt=true
  4. Thanks for the kind words Ian. Ok so onto the rear of the o/s, this is what i started with- All the inner sections behind the outer cill are badly rusted as well, also as you can see the rear seat belt mount area is badly rusted First job is to remove all the rusted areas back to a point where it is best to fabricate new sections Firstly i made a plate to repair the seat belt point, i made this 10mm bigger so i could weld it both sides, one side it usually enough but just for piece of mind. I then reattached the threaded section. Also welded in a small piece to the inner cill corner. All most forgot to mention the floor area behind the centre cross member, didn't take a picture of it before but here is the plate i made up held in place with clamps. I left it like this over night, mainly because i ran out of time but to also help relieve some of the tension on the fabricated section, if you look at your cars or take a close look at this picture you will see the different curves and angles of this section, i wanted to make in one piece for strength, following day i welded it in and well happy with the result So back to the rear section, first i made the inner cill that attaches to the floor and jacking point, once welded in i then set about the section that continues down from the inner 1/4 panel . Click to choose files Once all in i then finished off by making up the section of the bottom of the b post, which carries down and attaches to the middle section above (section with the holes in) Treated with hydrate 80 All ready now for the new outer cill to be fitted....
  5. Ok so haven't updated this for a couple of months, i have been busy on the o/s. Pretty much the same needed doing as the n/s more or less- This side had an outer over cill fitted, great for an mot pass but bad for corrosion later on as where the cill was welded on, especially the floor it had caused more corrosion. The chassis leg had gone a bit crusty aswell Firstly i removed the jacking point and floor section a long with the outer skin of the chassis rail The plan was to make all good in front of the middle cross member, this will stop any chance of things moving if i was to chop out the floor further back. The inner strengthening section of the leg was in great shape which surprised me, i gave it a good check around and coated it in Hydrate 80 before welding the outer section on i had made. I then replaced the floor section a long with a new jacking point The section in front of the jacking point like the other side is tricky to get right, but came out a treat. The section in front of the A pillar wasn't as bad as the other side but still needed a small amount of repair as did the inner arch by where the accelarator pedal attaches. I managed to remove the small angled bracket you can see above and reuse One small plate was needed on the A pillar also. Onto the rear floor/inner cill section next!
  6. Just noticed this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Opel-Ascona-400R/293045049981?hash=item443ad89a7d:g:Js0AAOSw59Jcr7ei
  7. That piece adds strength to the pillar so best to keep it, basically when i repair mine i bring it down and curve it back towards the middle section. Weld it to that section then when the cill goes back on it buts to the inner cill which your lucky is in such good condition, you then drill holes in the cill and weld up through to the flange of the middle section. Hope that makes some sense!
  8. Just had D91 MOP (GTE) insured again and with an agreed value of £9000. As you say they are definently creeping up.
  9. Keep going with the arches if your not happy, there are a few lines and curves to get right but well worth the hours and dust once painted and looking right!
  10. Well done, looks like a good buy and welcome back to the club!
  11. Their cills are good as i've fitted those aswell, sounds like you have a plan to sort the door gap, good luck. I have in the past put a piece of wood at the top of the door 3x2 between the i/4 panel and frame, always place a piece of card around the wood as not to damage the paint and carefully push the bottom corner of the door, if you are to paint the door you can always give it a tap with a piece of wood and hammer, then remove wood and check if the door has gone in at all, just repeat until you are happy with the lower door to 1/4 fitment.
  12. What make of cill are you using, also just to be clear (for me anyway), is the gap ok at the front towards the a post but tapers to a much smaller gap at the b post end. Also the bottom corner of the door pertrudes out past the 1/4 but the top is ok?
  13. Yep. i've always used the rear bumper holes, i also put large plate washers on the back just to spread the load as much as possible.
  14. Just removed my disc this morning, M10!
  15. Great job refitting these tricky trims Ian, that lower front spoiler looks great now its back on. I like your forward planning with those trim clips, nothing more frustrating when your ready to get on with the next job and a small but important clip is missing. Your on 1000 hits now
  16. Just checking but are you sure its a Klokkerholm arch? Just asking as all those panels i have ever used including cills etc are painted black. I have found the arches to fit really well. I did buy a pair of arches from Germany once that were your colour and i ended up using the metal for repair sections as the fit wasn't good, your outer arch looks closer than norm to your petrol filler, might just be the picture angle.
  17. Thanks for the comments guys. So on to the n/s jacking/chassis/A post/floor The rotted section was removed as above, first was to make and weld in the new piece of outer chassis Once all secured i then made up a section of floor and welded it in a long with the jacking point The front section of floor is quite a tricky piece to make, i had to bend the inner section but to get the curve just right i had to cut a couple of slits, so allowing the metal to bend around and down around the curve. Next it was onto the inner wing in front of the a post, i had to make up a section here. Last time i bought a section from Retropower which was spot on but because i only needed half of it i thought i'd make it up myself this time. And welded in place Next it was onto the front of the A post, just the front edge had rot so that came out and i made up section to weld in To get the base of the piller correct i thought it would be best to weld in the new cill first, completely forgot to take any pic's of this going in but you can see its in place now I made the front section of the lower pillar first, as you can see there is a hole which i welded a speed clip to the other side to take the wing fixing. Again didn't take another picture of this until it was all finished and coated with hydrate 80 as is the cill etc. Now the cill was fitted i could carry on with finishing off the inner and outer arch where it attaches to the rear of the cill, also remembering to weld through to pick up the inner cill section i installed earlier. The n/s side is all finished now and coated in hydrate 80 (metal wise). next will be the o/s and small repair to the front panel, then all the metal work will be done!
  18. I like your fabrication work on the inner chassis rail, once that is installed and both legs are solid and finished it will be fine to put on the spit, i actually replaced both my chassis swan necks while on the spit, using 4x4 posts to support the load (Restoration of D91 MOP).
  19. Good luck Ian, give it 3 coats, at least you will have plenty on to give it a good flat and polish if needed.
  20. Back up again £10,500 No Reserve!
  21. Ian, almost there for the paint. Are you planning on painting it in one go, as its not a metalic colour you would find it a lot easier if you haven't painted a car before, to do it in sections at a time, ie A side at a time, then onto the boot, roof and bonnet, front and back can be done with the sides. By doing it this way you will find it a little easier to deal with the overspray, because after painting the bonnet the rest you'll probably end up doing blind folded, at least that is what it will feel like. Good Luck!
  22. Yes all primer, if that was rust treatment hopefully the person that help make it can see it didn't work. There are many places on the car that just have a dusting of top coat and no primer at all. The hydrate 80 is just brushed on, gives a blue ish colour but goes much darker when dry and etches very strong to the metal.
  23. Thanks. I weld completely around the plate on one side and on the other depending if its structure or not i will weld again all the way around and over lap the metal by about 10mm, if not structual i tack the other side 20mm apart so as not to get any raised areas. I always treat unseen metal if not already coated, i use Hydrate 80. Thanks for the heads up on the chassis legs, hopefully once treated they shoudn't need looking at again🤞 Yes i always remove all the body paint as you never know what is hiding underneath, this one has very bad micro blistering. Hope this helps.
  24. Michael, i was lucky enough to see your car today at the classic car show at Shepton Mallet, looks great! Shame about the rubbish weather although on the bright side i managed to pick up a pair of Manta b cills from back in the 90's
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