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  1. Lola is wondering when will daddy finish this project so that i can go for a ride. BTW, I saw a pair of Manta B front wings going for sale on Shpock.com here is the link to it if not type Opel manta in the above site in its search bar https://www.shpock.com/en-gb/search?q=opel Manta spread the word if anyone is seeking a pair of wings for just £50.00 in a what seems pretty good nick.
  2. Ian I had no idea you took such a big task to restore a car that I thought could never be rescued, I would have fainted looking at it and allowed it to rest in peace at a scrap yard, but you knew and you undertook such a mammoth challenge, really impressed by your optimism, I wouldn't have thought a car in that state could even be restored, of course so much went into restoring it, I only wished you managed to get hold of a car that had little rust, like mine, I have rust but it is mainly confined to the bottom rails and floors, yes thanks to my sun roof drain that sends rain water down into passenger foot well, as that section as completely rotten including jacking point, but I managed to save it by welding solid sections and pipe for the jacking point, but I gave it to someone to weld, he done the welding which enabled it to pass MOT, but I was not happy with the quality of his welds, or may be my expectation were unreal, I paid £25.00 today just to have a look at the pictures as I have been a member for a while but I could not see any pictures or see classified ads, as I need a RH side Manta Head light, I bought one from a guy here a month ago,,and some bastard smashed it again during parking maneuver, so I caught him and got his details and he is willing to pay for one, so i will be looking for another RH Headlight, I do have a good one which I reserve for MOT, but after MOT I remove the good one and put back an old one that has tarnished reflector, so this was the one that got broken again, its always the RH side one that goes, last week there was one good one on Ebay (New but old stock) but i missed it. Very good thread and very painful too, you have spent hundreds of hours to restore this car, I wanted to see what you did to swan neck sections, but i have not so far gone through it all, its a very long project and lots of pages to study. Something new I learnt too....Dupuytren's contracture, so hos is your little finger now? Ian, how did you make such neat round holes on the new door cards? did you use a punch and die or a drill bit?
  3. Welcome back Davo, if there is anything that keeps a man young and fit , it is devotion to your favourite cars, they keep you so busy and you forget how old you actually are!
  4. In the last 10 years I have lost 4 drivers side headlight broken by useless drivers bumping into my lights whilst parking tight. Luckily one light was only broken in 3 pieces that I was able to glue together and apply clear tape in front and it had no impact on beam direction, so passed MOT, however the problem is reflectors, if they become tarnished or lose the chrome plating, then it is a real problem getting hold of new ones, Sending it away from re-chroming is so expensive, I was quoted £135 plus VAT, not worth it. Better solution is to buy online Hydro Chrome kit, which would cost half as much and give good results. But a cheaper solution is to use Emergency portable plastic blanket that mountaineers carry with them to wrap themselves to preserve all body heat, as reflective surface bounces heat back , or gift wrap roll you can get from gift shops this highly shiney film can be glued in sections on the reflector, use spray mount or something that will stick these plastic pieces to it, you need not worry too much about how hot it gets, it doesn't as all heat is reflected away, aluminium tape will get hot though, and it is not very reflective like mirror. Alternatively even better solution, get Cavalier Mk3 headlights, a pair i just bought on ebay ( NOS ) being sold for just £50.00 and it has brand new reflectors that will fit in the manta though you may need to improvise a little. Avoid falling for Chrome Spray, that they claim can give a mirror like finish, no they are no different to silver paint and when it dries it gives a dull shine, which is no good for headlights as the beam does not reach far enough on the road, except the headlight glows bright, and it passes MOT rather falsely as it deceives the tester since he sees the lights are bright and aim reasonable, but the reach is short, and MOT testers only place their measuring or test jig close to the car. However, if you must need good reflectors you may get them from German Ebay, reflectors are not beam diverters, it is the front glass pattern that deflects the beam. So Manta's have not yet reached the end of the road yet, some parts are hard to get by, but sooner or later someone will start moulding front headlight glass using Clear resin, I am in for that, I saw this video on Youtube, once you make a mould you could make a few of these and flog it on ebay for manta owners needing a new glass. Check this how this guy made his own lenses from one original glass. under a
  5. The Green wire can snap inside the loom from where it just emerges out, yes from record it happened to me and no one could start the car, AA towed it home and then as I was fiddling around the green wire it just popped out of the loom broken half inch inside the loom, rejoined it and the car fired stright up.
  6. It is really a shame no one wants it, I would not mind having it and store it for you never know when one may need it, glass is always vulnerable, and can break and broken by idiots just for fun, shame you need storage space, in your shed, I am not anywhere near you or else I would have had them and even paid you some cash. But please don't hammer them, somebody may thank you for keeping it available and then you can ask for cash as well, any way you could store in your loft space and then it is out of the way and safe when needed, a friend has a Volvo p122, someone broke his passenger side front window, captured on CCTV as well, just some kids no more than about 11-12years, and now he has tried everywhere and can't get one, from sweden it is almost £250.00! I hope you can keep it somehow and keep posting every so often and you never know. I am after a door handle driver's side if you have one, and door rubber seals, and always take headlights and keep them spare, the oblong type for Manta B. Many thanks.
  7. My driver's side door pull handle or (flap) has snapped off the door, pulled it too hard, a complete door may be considered instead. Also need driver's side door rubber weather seals which fit to the body and not the door.
  8. very well mate! still got that Manta and I haven't had time to do much to it, still in the same state it was a year ago. I am getting bad rust on the sun roof surrounding area, any suggestions as to what i can do, cut out rusty areas and patch it up with new sheet metal and filler or get rid of it with a new roof skin and blend it in.
  9. Thank you so much guys, especially mantadoc for being more precise, luckily my carpets were out as I had to carry out some floor welding, so found the module just above the bonnet release and pulled the connector out and all is well and good! though dim light facility is gone but I can live with that as well as I can now look into the module to see if could be repaired then I may reconnect it after. But grateful to you guys! well pleased.
  10. Sorry mate your post must have crossed mine, I will go and check now with my torch
  11. Does that also mean that lights will not run dim when engine is running on side lights alone? often if a side light bulb is blown up, this dim headlights cover for a blown bulb. So I might be able to fix the module as I do electronics, but locating it is where I am stuck, is it above the glove box or behind it?
  12. Sorry mate, I have had no luck so far, I am trying to work out how to take apart the lower part of the dashboard, there are 3 screws from the glove box, and a couple around the left and right side, and may be a few underneath, awkward to get under, but I pulled out my stereo and clock, and cannot see anything around the passenger side as the glove box is there, unless these modules are above the glove box. Secondly, I am a bit puzzled as the Haynes Manual indicates that a plain Yellow wire 1.5 should leave the Light switch to go to both fuse 11 and 12, and to the two modules - Dim Light and Day light Modules. However on my light switch there is no plain Yellow wire, but a yellow with a white tracer (Yellow/white) coming out from it, however at the Fuse 11 and 12 they have two plain Yellow wires and a loop or a link between the two fuses! So this means that the yellow/white from the light switch must be routed to something first and then from there they must have used plain yellow to fuses. Snowy if you could give me some more depth knowledge as to what I will need to do to get to this dim light module I will appreciate, remember i owned this car for 26 years and never had to take its dashboard apart, the only thing I took apart recently was its instrument cluster to replace speedo light bulbs which had holders that I took out from the front and my wife binned them thinking they were junk! so had to hard wire white LEDs instead, and this required removing the top cover that was not difficult.
  13. Thank you Snowy, I will try and find it out tomorrow, however, looking further into haynes manual, there is yet another module ref. K62 referred to as Dim-Dip light module, and if I am not mistaken the one I mentioned previously (K59) is for day running lights, which according to the circuit diagram, would enable the side lights to come on with ignition being switched on, as required in Norway and sweden, and since it is not a requirement in UK, so this module may well be missing any way, so this leaves us another module ref. K62 which is called a dim dip light, and has a symbol of a transistor, which must cause headlights to turn on dim on a dipped main beam when for example your engine is running and side lights are ON, this would also run your headlights at half the power or intensity, this i have noticed previously, and when you turn your light switch to bring on main dipped beam headlights on, they then come on full intensity. This is where the fault is now likely to be, I now suspect this module could be the problem where it is now feeding full power out to the heradlights all the time, regardless of the light switch being turned on or not. so again this module may also be housed behind the dashboard near passenger side, I will check this tomorrow, I guess I will have to undo bottom trim from the dashboard to see it from under, unless I can unplug my stereo and possibly access it through that slot.
  14. I suspect the green wire too, on mine it was fractured inside the loom just where it emerged out of the loom, outer green sheeth looked intact, but the inner copper condiutors had broken due to engine viberations,, even an AA patrol man could not find the cause so he towed me home, then I was just fiddling along the wires from the loom thatw ent to the ignition coild and suddenly I felt as though the green wire had no stiffness at a point where it came out of the loom, so when I pulled it slightly it broke hence revealing the problem, once I stripped it bare and rejoined the engine fired up. this wire keeps the fuel pump relay energised as well as I guess the ignition circuit, this is to prevent pump from running after an accident spoilling fuel out of the tank.
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