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H-400

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H-400 last won the day on November 10

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About H-400

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Belgium
  • Name
    Herman

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  1. This seal fits over the edge of the heater box and got one lip pointing up, usually you can buy them at oldtimermeetings by the meter. If you'r going to look for them at an Opel webshop you'll pay more: http://dr-manta-shop.de/epages/0859c4be-b99b-4b88-8216-6a78b07dc4b5.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/0859c4be-b99b-4b88-8216-6a78b07dc4b5/Categories/2f8639feef43f2964be0cee184dad78c/6aa1be3a9038b9d27d9233bf1c090f21 Picture of the seal: I would try a boot seal of a Manta-B.
  2. Man, this is a flashback! Look at my first Manta almost 40 years back: @Roy: Enjoy it, grts Herman
  3. Looking great, btw, you'v got some weird animals in your shed😄
  4. @Evo03: There are some details that that make a standard body different from a real "400"one. Remember there were some pics showed on internet of a restoration of a "400" and me and a friend noticed at the same time without being together it was not the real stuff. Some hours later those pics were deleted but I already copied them. When I spoke with my friend on the first carmeeting we both began together about that car and the details that were missing. Later I confronted the owner of the restoration "400" about that situation and he kept on saying it is a real one. If he sells that car as a real one that is fraud, theft. In Belgium it is not allowed to change your brakes, engine, tuning like throttle bodies etc. I fitted vent. discs and calipers of the Rekord E 2.2 in my GSI but in fact it is not allowed. Difficult to see in the rims so in those 25 years they never noticed. We are allowed to lower the car, with papers of the set that it is made for your type of car and with a document of an official workshop the build is done professional with if needed adjustment of the brake pressure/load valve of the rear axle. Belgium is not a car friendly country so it is always a confrontation to go to meetings in the UK, Germany and Holland and see what we miss.
  5. Hi Sam, the best is indeed to fit a complete new set, they are easy to find on internet: https://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/Coupling-rod-flybar-stabiliser-on-front-axle-Opel-Ascona-Manta-B-Kadett-C https://www.altopelhilfe.de/product_info.php?info=p3077_stabisatz-seitlich---koppelstange.html https://www.o-t-r.de/shop/ascona-manta-b/va-stabisatz-ascona-manta-b/
  6. Things we can only dream of in Belgium. Some days ago I called a friend to ask if he had some Commodore/Rekord rear axle lower arms to fit a Commo axle under my Manta GSI. He tolled me a friend of him did the same with the chassisrails of a "400" and the car didn't pass the Belgian MOT. Wors:They destroyed his car on paper so you can't rebuild that car back to original and MOT it again. MOT in Belgium is not done in a garage or dealer but done by government approved companies: If you want to work at the Belgian MOT you don't even have to be a car mecanical🤪
  7. Drove years with a 2.4 and just rebuilded it (see "swan neck"). I am sure the cast iron of a 2 liter is better (harder) than the 2.4 block. And i'm not the only one with that opinion. Noticed also before boring & honing my 2.4block the pistons were rocking (is this the right defenition in English?). The engine made a sound at idle as there was a hydraulic tappet with too much clearance. It was hard to notice but we are all petroll heads so I do also listen to my engine. When I reved up only a bit the sound was away... So the skirts were worn and the sides (L & R) of the cilinder was polished and oval. Fitted again a 2 liter head because I want to flow the 2.2 head and that shortened 6 cil inlet. The 2.4 runs nice and has got a nice torque, doesn't knock and it's gonna be that way for a while. Got to open the engine of the "400" @Kelvin: The knee is getting better, but no "Iron man" stuf 😄
  8. The L-jetronic works with 6Volt injectors, this part is the resistor pack for those injectors. Jess has got also a point, the half of this pack is used also for the ignition but has got another funktion. Where that 4-pack just feeds every injector the 2-pack is overruled by the "16" of the starter motor to give the coil a higher voltage just to start.
  9. Top work, I remember that seem between the C-pillar and the rear quarter. I used a very thin grinding disc of a Dremel (32mm dia) and fitted that on an airtool. There is a kit used in the seem but I found out there was even under the kit rust. After cleaning I used rust convertor to be sure, and used again a seemkit.
  10. Maybe the moment to consider to let the engine bore & hone and fit new oversize pistons. I payed 300€ for the work in an overhauling firm. The new pistons & rings were found on internet for 500€. Had luck cause the crank didn't need any work but fitted new bearings. Than you'v got a new block.
  11. Found the same partnumbers as above. But the later covers from '85 don't need a gasket. They have all the same gears but the later oilpump houses are not that deep milled. To check this: the old covers the gears stick 0-0,1mm out and the later 0-0,065mm. Think after all those years it is the best to fit them with sealant and try from above with a long screwdriver if they turn free. If not you can fit a thin gasket. The oilpump bottom plate is easy repaired with sandpaper and oil on a flat surface. Some timing covers have an "02" stamped on the side of the oilpump house. Those covers need oversize gears so the can NOT have standard gears. See pic 1.20: [img]https://i.imgur.com/L0G1gqq.jpg[/img]
  12. H-400

    "400" repair

    That was 60€ with shipping, the seller was cleaning up his garage.
  13. H-400

    "400" repair

    Thanks guys, tried it via a backdoor. Is this something cause of the web-update? I'm not a computer nerd...
  14. You'v got sharp eyes David, and yes that will be the reason. Never was a fan of fitting an engine to the front, got plans to fit the original 4 cil. lump of the GSI to the rear.
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