Blockhead Posted July 29, 2010 Share Posted July 29, 2010 Plans never became reality so I now have a modified 2L 8V engine from a Mark 2 Astra GTE 8v for sale. Lightened and balanced flywheel and crank, skimmed head and block with brand new headgasket and bolts, overhauled lifters, Piper high lift cam, Piper vernier timing pulley, New (still not fitted) Piper timing belt, adjustable fuel pressure. ECU has a Superchips uprated chip in it. Spot on injection fuel tank, new clutch that I *think* will mate the 1.8 box to the engine and keep original size of clutch to the engine (not small 1.8 clutch or modded turbo clutch). Custom fittings to plumb in the Astra GTE oil cooler on a RWD car (with good cooler). I've basically got everything so I could convert my Manta and probably forgotten a couple of little bits but have now sold it. Got new sump gasket and water pump gaskets etc. I've left as much of the wiring connected as possible. The ECU has been stored in the house along with AFM/ K&N filter- engine has been in a dry shed and has been regularly turned over to prevent valve spring damage although obviously not run for a few months now. Fly wheel has surface rust only and with wire brush off or just leave the clutch to do the work. Although it's had a lot of money spent on it, it's all functional so is no show engine- would look standard in the bay except for the vernier pulley but you could get the plastic cover for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethestate Posted July 30, 2010 Share Posted July 30, 2010 Is it a c20ne or se engine? And price please? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethestate Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 I take it you dont ACTUALLY want to sell this engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blockhead Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 This is the SE higher compression engine with more BHP even when standard. The main difference is the crown in the top of the piston- the pictures below are from when I had the head off- there is only a small dip in the top of the piston- C20NE pistons have a large dip covering most of the piston face. For everything bolted and connected to the engine in the pictures and with the chipped ECU, AFM c/w K&N cone filter I'm looking for £400 but if you require any other bits I'm up for a deal. Price up the cost of a stock engine, lighten and balance the flywheel and crankshaft, skim the faces of the cylinder head and engine block, buy a Piper cam and cam belt, new adjustable (vernier) timing pulley, new head gasket, new bolts, superchips ECU etc. and it will easily cost more than that, without even taking into account time and hassle. Remember I planned to use this myself so I didn't cut corners. Will also come with new gaskets including water pump gasket (water pump doubles as the timing belt tensioner), cam assembly gasket (head bolts will need their final torque in around 1000 miles- Head gasket is that recent), Bottom end gasket set with Rubber sump gasket (Will need to use a RWD sump in the Manta) and I think I have a new oil filter to treat the engine when you fit it. Straight after I removed the cover- no old gunky oil in with the rockers as the engine has previously been fully rebuilt. Again, before being cleaned- nice healthy valves with even markings. No steam cleaning so not a drop of water is getting in. Perhaps a little rich but much of the use prior to opening it up was only at idle with a few good blasts to satisfy myself with the engine- Extremely torquey and picked up nicely in the Astra before being removed. I was advised it is running around 150/160 BHP which is feasible but I cannot confirm this. A quick clean of the crowns to check for any old damage with valves- all spot on. Cylinder liners nice and clean with fresh honing marks and no scores. Showing the SE pistons with small indent on crown and the numbers. sealing faces were obviously fully cleaned and checked before reassembling with new gasket and bolts. I take it you dont ACTUALLY want to sell this engine? Err I actually do to be honest. I've not been at home much the last few days and when I am I'm generally sleeping due to working 12 hour nights shifts a good drive from home. I thought it better to add what photos I have rather than post meaningless replies for the sake of it. I apologise for any delays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethestate Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Think i`ll leave it at that price.It wont be running 150bhp even without headwork and although it`d be a nice engine its just an 8v at the end of the day.I could go out and buy an xe and have the cams reprofiled and have 165bhp for the same money! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blockhead Posted August 1, 2010 Author Share Posted August 1, 2010 (edited) Think i`ll leave it at that price.It wont be running 150bhp even without headwork and although it`d be a nice engine its just an 8v at the end of the day.I could go out and buy an xe and have the cams reprofiled and have 165bhp for the same money! That was obviously the same decision I had to make before getting this. The SEH was 130BHP standard so it is perfectly feasible that with healthy parts, higher CR from head and block skim, high lift cam, adjustable cam timing, free flow air filter, exhaust and chipped ECU that it could gain 20 BHP. You are possibly correct in that you may be able to buy an XE of unknown condition that has never been touched so has 100,000 miles of wear on everything and simply sort the cams. However, worn pistons, bottom ends, timing, gunked up oil ways etc. never like suddenly having to cope with extra power after 20 years. My preference is a healthy 8V engine with maybe a little less power than the 16v's *peak* power that will pull away faster and have no annoying noises and potentional engine damage due to old and worn out components. I personally prefer a 150BHP 8V over a 150 BHP 16v anyway. 8V have full torque and even curve right from low revs instead of being useless until it all comes in at once high up. That said I now have a turbo which is worse still lol. Plus as I said, I'm up for a deal. Ho hum. Each to their own. Edited August 1, 2010 by Blockhead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethestate Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 I wont get into the whole 8v/16v debate as its a for sale thread and not even mine at that! You`ve got some good points but just cant justify spending 400 quid on a 8v,no matter whats being spent on it as you never get your money back. I do love the 8v engines tho and dont doubt this goes alright,but the heads dont really flow enough without work for 150bhp. See if it sells if it doesent drop me a pm with a more realistic price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opel2000 Posted August 1, 2010 Share Posted August 1, 2010 Just to help plug this engine for Blockhead. My SEH fitted to Manta, std cam, smoothed inlet ports, K&N, and an Ashley Ex Manifold and system, using 1.8 dizzy off of stepped 1.8 Cam sprocket was pushing out 145BHP @ 6000 rpm, I told rolling road operator not to go over 6K as engine was getting a little tired. My XE engined Calibra 140BHP on the rollers. 8V engine is also lighter than the 16V, very very underrated engine are the 8 valve engines. 16V engines feel more effortless to drive, but when the 8 Valve hits it's rev range it pulls wonderfully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blockhead Posted August 9, 2010 Author Share Posted August 9, 2010 Been messed about with this. If you don't intend going through with it, don't bother me. Back up for sale- £300. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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