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Telling Apart?


cieranc
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Engine size and years of both cars please and whether auto or manual

For example a late Manta one would have auto adjusters and pretty sure you never find those on a Cav of any age if original.

Aditionally there are different ratios depending on car, and smaller wheel bearings on some Cav.

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No history on what cars these came from, I bought these axles on their own. But the seller assured me that the Manta one ran well in the car before it was removed, but he's not ran the Cavalier axle so it's condition can't be vouched for. I need to fit one of these axles to my car, so would prefer to fit the one known to be good, But I can't tell which is which!

That said, neither axle has excessive backlash, the teeth on both are all clean and unmarked and all the wheel bearings are free of play, so maybe I don't need to worry which I fit.

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Hi,did you get these from Leeds?As I think I sold you them.If so it was the cav axle that I know was ok.It was the one with the new copper brake pipe and no wheel cylinders from a 2.0 so should be 3.44:1.The other was from a 1.8 manta so will be 3.67:1.This was the one that I had not tried but came from a trusted member (Rutts)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ah cheers Matt, yep thems the ones :thumbup

I've picked up an A series casing and shafts today from Ryan at Wizbang Fabrication near Market Weighton. So gonna use the Cavalier diff and pinion in the A series casing, and the B series torque tube!

I think the 3.44 ratio will be better in this car, with 13" wheels.

Think that will work :blink: ??

I presume the brakes are the same on both Cav and B series axles?

Edited by cieranc
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Mechanical adjusters on both axles. Opened up the Cavalier one and there's 31 crownwheel teeth and 9 pinion, so yes, 3.44 to 1 ratio. Teeth are nice and clean and there's no backlash so this'll be the one I use in the A series casing.

Next problem though - I can't get the shafts out. Tried drawing them out with long bolts and nuts but that's just bending the flange on the end of the tube. And there's not enough room in the diff to get the porta-power wedge between the inner ends of the shafts. Is there a trick to these or does it just come down to brute force? Although I won't be using this casing, I don't get job satisfaction if I have to butcher stuff!

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unbolt the four bolts holding the shaft put on a large slide hammer onto the wheel studs tightly bang away like mad :blink: .

if that does not work put a steel wheel onto the studs and bray hell out of it. :lol:

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Tried with the slide hammer, it's a big'un (ex British Rail loco shops) but only got a hook on the end, so pulling on the 2 big holes on the ends of the shafts. Anyway, thats not budging them.

So now looking for a steely wheel, I only got the original Rostyles which I'll be using, so not really wanting to bash them up!

Cheers for the advice.

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