daisybump Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Hi, been using my ascona for track days but now feel i can out drive the cars capabilitys, the front end understeers too much, can i add some negative camber..? i was thinking i could cut and shut the bottom arm to achieve this..? i do have an idea of how to do it just searching for some possible answers from someone who has done it before.. Rear disc conversion, again i have an idea of what parts to use and many options are available, what works and what doesn't..? Any help would be appreciated.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted March 29, 2011 Share Posted March 29, 2011 Most people reenforce the top arms and slot the holes to slide the ball joint in. It has the advantage of being easily reversible and has less alignment issues................ If you are lucky you may find a Vauxhall Sportpart manual on the net somewhere showing how it was done for the very similar Chevette top arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daisybump Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 Thanks for the reply.. opened up a whole new world searching for chevette negative camber..! i need to tune the castor angle as well as camber on its own wont give me the result im looking for.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamchop77 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Hi, been using my ascona for track days but now feel i can out drive the cars capabilitys, the front end understeers too much, can i add some negative camber..? i was thinking i could cut and shut the bottom arm to achieve this..? i do have an idea of how to do it just searching for some possible answers from someone who has done it before.. Rear disc conversion, again i have an idea of what parts to use and many options are available, what works and what doesn't..? Any help would be appreciated.. Modded mine by tapping out steel bar and welding into the top arms, after cutting the original bushes off the top arm. Then use spherical bearings (as used on 5 link setups) to screw into the tapped out bar. Lock nuts need to be used,but you should have enough adjustment to get to about 4 deg negative which is way more than you need. You can cut and shut the bottom arm but that is a permanent mod, this way you can go back to std settings easily. Beauty of this mod is that the sphericals are so narrow that you will need to pack them out with washers or spacers, this gives you loads of adjutment for moving the top arm forwards or backwards which will give you a caster angle change. If you feel the car is understeering there are a few options. First need to know what poundage of spring your using though for which will suit you best. Quick mod to reduce the understeer is fit a thicker rear anti roll bar, or increase the rear spring poundage a touch. Playing around with damper settings can have an effect but only a slight one, but that may be enough. You can thin the front antiroll bar down in the centre by machining to about 12-14mm thickness, that usually works quite well, its just a softening of the front anti roll bar. Has the same effect as increasing the rear but you can do this if the rear already has a thick roll bar on. I had problems with the Kadett grasser understeering, bare in mind i'm racing on dirt. I ended up with 500lb springs on the front, no front roll bar, 250lb on the rear with a thick roll bar and then weight jacked for right turns (oval racer). Handles really well. I would advise having a read of a suspension or race car setup book, Allan Staniforth does a couple of good ones. Gives you good pointers and explains things in laymans terms so you understand. If you go hamfisted into this without the understanding of whats happening to the car you could make it worse, even dangerous. HTH Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted March 30, 2011 Share Posted March 30, 2011 Hi If your doing a rear disc conversion and the setup on the back axel is the same as the manta im using sierra 4x4 rear calipers, as you can use the same handbrake cable with them and if your 4 stud, BMW 3 series rear discs fit straight on (you just need to have a bracket and some spacers made up). Im just building mine back up with new calipers etc.. and should have some pictures and a bit more info on my blog of the setup by the weekend. www.theopelproject.com Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daisybump Posted March 30, 2011 Author Share Posted March 30, 2011 My springs are of unknown origin..so might be a start to get some new ones.. any ideas on what poundage might be best..? it has bilstein shocks so are not adjustable.. it has eibach front and rear rollbars, might be an idea to try a standard one on the front then..? Many thanks for the replys, i am no novice to cars but am a novice to setting them up for track use and do realise its a game of trial and error..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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