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Fuel Gauge Calibration - Manta


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Is there any way to calibrate the fuel gauge on a 1983 Manta berlinetta?

mine reads 1/4 full when it is empty!

Will it be the sender or the gauge that is faulty?


Yes you can calibrate them.

Test with 40 Ohm resistor and tweak the "cog" in the back if I remember rightly.......

However, no one on here will entertain doing so until they have eliminated the voltage stabiliser as a possible cause as they are a known issue and cause temp and fuel to read high or not at all in varying degrees

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Behind instrument cowling

If I remember rightly, pull out fan switch, pull out heated rear window switch, undo the srews (1 each side) then look inside the instrument binacle and there are two short screws in the top so you will be working witha short screwdriver in the cowled area in front of the clocks. There are two screws in there.

You might have to pull headlight switch forward / out of its hole too then colwing lifts off. Voltage stabiliser is then accessible on the back of the instrument cluster (easily visible thorough windscreen.

But I may not remember rightly

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Adapt and overcome

No warranty of any kind implied or given - I based it on someone else's attempt, just decided to make good use of the existing case. My car was running one fine since 2006 and my wife's kadett is fitted with the prototype


<font size="5" color="#0080FF"">Old case and stripped board, and a few gubbins from your friendly mail order electronics folks.


As I intended this to be adjustable it uses more hardware than some of the various designs I have seen on the net <BR> Going to be a tight fit.


Prototype, no finesse and blue tack used as a third hand.<BR> This tested out ok on the car so it was time to do better.


Thought about where stuff was going this time (note pot position).<BR> Left wires long to mount IC externally.


IC is bolted to the case, note that this ICs mounting tag is internally connected to the pin2 output.

<BR>Without the insulators the outside case of the regulator could be at about 10 volts.

<BR>Note the 3 wires coming out of the grommit on the right so they can be connected to the IC pins

and of course the grommit so it doesn't chaff.

<BR>There is also a grommit in the top by the IC.


Finished item. IC pins are heat shrink sleeved. I am ashamed to say I wrapped some electrical insulation tape over the bolt JIC.

<BR>I would have preffered to heat shrink sleeve that too but didn't order any in that size.

<BR>With an Ohmeter I checked all pins for continuity to the case to make sure there wasn't any, and from the IC to the case too.


In situ. The usual mod of running a small loom is in place to save having the cowl off all the time.

<BR>Screwdriver through what was the top grommit to adjust.


Picture of the board and components as I wired it. The wires to the IC pins were diff lengths so I knew which was which as they were all black.

<BR>Note the Dip in the Electrolytic capacitor for polarity.

<BR>Potentiometer has 3 pins, 2 are on either end of the "track" and the other is the adjustable bit. If you use the two nearest together you

don't get any adjustment.

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