Jump to content

Anyone Under Stand Ring And Pinion Gear Ratio


DiMarco
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

The V8 manta i am getting has a 3 speed auto set up running a camero rear axle. I have been told it is running 5000 RPM at 100 MPH but there is a way to change the ratio to make the car run at 4000 RPM at 100 MPH by changing the ring and pinion gear but i dont understand any of it lol. Please see below to what the owner sent me to change it i cant make heads or tails of it.

Diff Ratio Calculations
4.1 = about 100 mph @ 5000 rpm
mph @5000 rpm rpm @ 100 mph
with various diff ratios with various diff ratios
Ratio mph Ratio rpm
4.1 100 4.1 4914
3.9 105 3.9 4674
3.7 111 3.7 4434
3.5 117 3.5 4195
3.3 124 3.3 3955
3.1 132 3.1 3715
2.9 141 2.9 3476
2.7 152 2.7 3236
Wheel Diameter = 26”
Pie x 26 = Circumference of 81.7” (81.679)
63360 “/mile
63360 / 81.679 = 775.7 Wheel rotations / mile
= 77572 rotations / 100 mile
5000 rmp X 60 = 300 000 revs / hr
therefore 100 mile @ 5000 rpm = 300 000 revs
Engine Revs / Wheel Revs = 300 000 / 77572 = 3.8
ER / WR = ratio 3.8 / 1
But Diff Ratio is 4.1 / 1
Engine ---------------- 3.8 -------------------- Diff 3.8 / 4.1
Engine ----- 0.927 ----- GB ------ 4.1------- Diff
So … ratio of 1 to 0.927 on final drive of Gear Box
Using a 2.7 - 1 diff 0.927 x 2.7 = 2.5 ER / WR
2.5 x 77572 = 193939 ER 193939 / 60 = 3236 rpm @ 100 mph
Using a 2.7 - 1 diff 0.927 x 2.7 = 2.5 ER / WR
2.5 x 77572 = 193939 ER 193939 / 60 = 3236 rpm @ 100 mph

Edited by DiMarco
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a reminder that with a torque converter you wont get exactly 1:1 drive, ie the converter will slip slightly so engine rpm will be a fraction higher than output of the gearbox so as a guess if the engine is at 5000 (under load) the "effective" rpm may be 4900 ish. Not sure how accurate you need to be re gearing at this point.

My advice to you at this point is get everything up together and on the road and see how it feels.

It seems odd that someone went to the trouble of fitting ford 351c and transmission then fitted a camaro axle. Most yank axles used are 9 inch ford and very common for many swaps and 4.11 is a ford ratio.

There are plenty of aftermarket gears available for ford and gm axles though, in fact far cheaper than manta stuff lol.

Get underneath the car and take pics of the diff housing and transmission and ill tell you what youve got (not the ratio tho lol)

Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok it is a chevy axle then. Nothing wrong with them at your power level, also quite easy to buy different ratios for. The locker diff is quite an expensive part and will be good at speed on the road, but maybe a bit noisy/clonky at slow speeds. If your tyres are about 26" tall the 4.10 will be a "little" low geared but will be great for flooring it and hear the motor sing :) I would try it first and change it later if you cant get on with it. For cruising mileage a 3.7 (ish) would do for that but you will lose the urgency of the motor and a 3.9 (ish) would be a good compromise which would still launch quite hard and give a scary top speed but less likely to spin the wheels in top :) If you have a C4 transmission, its made of ally with a removable bellhousing (look for the join) . If its a C6 its also ally but bellhousing is part of the main case. The other option will be an FMX which is iron main body with an Ally bellhousing. If you need any advice with the box or the engine I can probably help. (Used to run a cleveland 450hp with FMX and C4 transmissions and am currently building a C4 to take 1000hp (like you do)

Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you very much tony that is a great help.

She is Running a Cleveland 351 5.7 litre V8 with an FMX gearbox 3 speed with a 1971 camaro rear axle. She has 295 50 15 rear tires and 185 70 13 front tires. I am not sure what the Cleveland is running BHP wise as the chap told me it is hitting 320bhp but the engine online it says about 200 or something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the cleveland is actually classed as a 5.8l. There are a few variations on cylinder head and inlet manifold set ups. What inlet manifold and carb are on it do you know? Also are the heads 2v or 4v ? They can be 300 ish with few mods as long as its got a decent 4 barrel carb and manifold,but without knowing the full spec its hard to say.

Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah good. I can see ally intake manifold so thats aftermarket. It has a Holley carb on there and some cheeky nitrous oxide solenoids :)

The Mallory distributor is a nice piece too. Right now whip the cylinder heads off I want to see the pistons :D

Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I will have to see what it is like when I get the engine out as I need to get the manifolds shortened so that the new exhaust can fit nicely into the body. I will see what I can do when I get the engine out.

I see from the cars you used to have the American muscle looks awesome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes the old tank had a cleveland in it, originally from my aussie falcon xb gt (mad max) god thats rare now and i scrapped it lol.

Built a few clevos, good strong motors with the right bits and normal stuff like gaskets are quite cheap after buying jap stuff for years lol

Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...