gary6303 Posted August 8, 2014 Share Posted August 8, 2014 Need reminding how to wire up the xe loom, ie, is the small black wire to power the loom, switched live or constant live ect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robah Posted August 9, 2014 Share Posted August 9, 2014 Hopefully this helps I have some other stuff if needed, (Copied from another site, so not responsible for content) Step 11 - Wiring the 16v harness to the engine First push the long plastic piece down over the injector plugs, making sure it's the right way round and that all the spring clips 'clip' onto each injector. Also be sure to put the 2 separate plugs that are on a length of wire coming from the underside of the plastic multi connector; down between the injectors where they fit down best, these need to then be connected to the knock sensor (black) and idle speed adjustor (white). If you find that the colours of the plugs don't match the connectors on the engine (like mine) you'll need to check the colours of the cables going to the plugs and position them as follows - Knock sensor loom wires - Black & yellow Brown & white Idle speed adjustor - Red & blue Brown & dark blue Water temperature sensor - Blue Blue & light green Mine did not match up exactly with these colours, my knock sensor wires were brown & white and brown & black. So long as one of the wires matches up it should be ok. Next connect up the distributor and crank sensor; these are easy as they are both different plugs to anything else. Connect up the 2 water temp connectors on the block, the small round one needs to connect to your old blue wire that was used for your temperature guage, the other connects to the spare plug that comes from the injection loom and is probably on a length of cable by itself. Also mount the coil somewhere suitable and plug in the engine loom connections, straight forward as the plugs don’t fit anything else. Step 12 - Wiring up the 16v harness to the car harness. Connect the 2 looms together as follows: Wires from the 16v loom: Wires on the old injection plug: Green – Tacho/rev counter Green - Tacho/rev counter Blue – Fuel pump Red & Blue - Fuel pump Black & Red - Starter motor Black & Red - Starter motor Blue & Green x2 - Oil pressure Blue & Green + Blue & Yellow – Oil pressure Black – Black – Blue & White - Blue & White – Red – Permanent +12v 11 wires are in this plug 7 of them are required. Step 13 Now’s a good time to connect the vacuum line from the injection manifold to the brake servo. My method was to use the original 16v tube and non-return valve and connect some old manta sunroof drainage pipe (it’s all I had to hand) from the valve to the servo. Slight heating of the pipe is required to get it over the connectors, once cooled down it makes a tight fit. Step 14 - Positioning the ECU Unfortunately there's not enough cable to allow you to mount the ECU inside the car, this is a matter of personal preference where you want to mount it, some have mounted it up by the windscreen washer bottle (If the smaller round one is fitted) but I chose to mount it down near the headlights. Where ever you choose make sure it has a good earth connection. Then find somewhere suitable to mount the cable, I cut a chunk out of the radiator mounting panel and drilled 2 holes either side and used a cable tie to hold it in place. Step 15 The car can now be started if you wish (if the airbox & airflow meter is attached), however the rest of the exhaust system will now require modifying to couple up to the manifold unless a custom made system is being fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary6303 Posted August 16, 2014 Author Share Posted August 16, 2014 Thanks for that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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