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L-Jetronic conversion to microsquirt 1975 Ascona A 1.9


ghcoe
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7 hours ago, ghcoe said:

I just ordered a microsquirt and some supporting items today. Hopefully I can get this project moving forward since it has been dead for a year now. 

Nice indeed, keep us updated on how you get on.

I had planned to come up with a plug in solution using Microsquirt as a direct replacement for the aging Jetronic system, but did not get much further than notebook planning due to distraction with other projects .

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5 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

Nice indeed, keep us updated on how you get on.

I had planned to come up with a plug in solution using Microsquirt as a direct replacement for the aging Jetronic system, but did not get much further than notebook planning due to distraction with other projects .

I know how that goes. Always other projects. It got down to if I don't get it done then I needed to sell the vehicle. Not doing me any good sitting out there not running. I have everything to convert it to a carburetor, but I can't bring myself to doing that. Hopefully I am not getting in over my head with this endeavor.

I am keeping up with the FI project on OpelGT.com but the cost is way too much, and they seem to be building around more power/bigger displacement motors. I just want a simple plug and play economy build for the original FI. If this works, then maybe there will be a economical solution for these older units.   

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25 minutes ago, ghcoe said:

I know how that goes. Always other projects. It got down to if I don't get it done then I needed to sell the vehicle. Not doing me any good sitting out there not running. I have everything to convert it to a carburetor, but I can't bring myself to doing that. Hopefully I am not getting in over my head with this endeavor.

I am keeping up with the FI project on OpelGT.com but the cost is way too much, and they seem to be building around more power/bigger displacement motors. I just want a simple plug and play economy build for the original FI. If this works, then maybe there will be a economical solution for these older units.   

exactly my train of thought. Needs to be as simple as oem and cheap. But yeah, there are easy paths that cost too much for the most owners for sequential full map setups. I actually have an MS3 sat about  that I was going to swap one over to, for that exact reason but I am a while away from working back on my 4pot.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I received my Microsquirt this week and a few other supporting products. 

Thought I would share what I have purchased to move this project forward. 

I'll make each entry a different part since I lost a lot of typing with a stupid key stroke. So, bear with me. 

I had covered this earlier that I purchased some items at a salvage yard. Though I would start there. 

I picked up a throttle body off of a 1994 Ford Escort. This throttle body is pretty limited since it only was installed on two vehicles for two years. Luckily there are a bunch of these vehicles in the salvage yards, at least around me. 

FORD ESCORT 1994-1995
MERCURY TRACER 1994-1995

On this throttle body I also got the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). It fits the same vehicles but does add a few more years. In looking at how it attaches to the throttle body and the shaft design I do believe other TPS's will fit. If I were to guess the difference is how the plug attaches to the TPS.

I also got a Idle Air Control valve (IAC). Again, it fits the same vehicles with a few more years. This IAC is operated by Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) with is what the microsquirt will support without extra components. 

FORD ESCORT 1992-1996
MERCURY TRACER 1992-1995

In doing some research I found that this throttle body will support other IAC's. It shares the same flange as other models of vehicles. Again, I suspect the main difference is how it plugs into the wiring harness. I did cut off the plugs, so I had the plugs available to me to repin or splice into the microsquirt harness. 

At the same time, I picked up a GM style Air intake/charge sensor. These sensors are used on a lot of different vehicles. These usually just push into a rubber gasket so they are supper easy to install in the air flow without having to install a device for them to thread into. 

BUICK ALLURE 2005
BUICK CENTURY 1993-2005
BUICK LACROSSE 2005
BUICK LESABRE 1997-2005
BUICK PARK AVENUE 1995-2005
BUICK RAINIER 2005
BUICK REGAL 1995-2004
BUICK RENDEZVOUS 2002-2005
BUICK ROADMASTER 1996
BUICK SKYLARK 1995-1998
CADILLAC DEVILLE 1995
CADILLAC ESCALADE 1999-2000
CADILLAC FLEETWOOD 1995-1996
CADILLAC SEVILLE 1998-1999
CHEVROLET ASTRO 1992-2001
CHEVROLET BERETTA 1994-1995
CHEVROLET BLAZER 1995-2004
CHEVROLET C1500 PICKUP 1994-1999
CHEVROLET C1500 SUBURBAN 1997
CHEVROLET C2500 PICKUP 1996-1999
CHEVROLET C2500 SUBURBAN 1996-1998
CHEVROLET C3500 PICKUP 1997-2000
CHEVROLET CAMARO 1993-2001
CHEVROLET CAPRICE 1994-1996
CHEVROLET CAVALIER 1995-2005
CHEVROLET CLASSIC 2004-2005
CHEVROLET CORSICA 1995-1996
CHEVROLET CORVETTE 1992-1997
CHEVROLET EXPRESS 1500 1997-2001
CHEVROLET EXPRESS 2500 1996-2002
CHEVROLET EXPRESS 3500 1996-1998
CHEVROLET G20 1994-1995
CHEVROLET IMPALA 1996-2005
CHEVROLET K1500 PICKUP 1994-1998
CHEVROLET K1500 SUBURBAN 1996-1999
CHEVROLET K2500 PICKUP 1995-2000
CHEVROLET K2500 SUBURBAN 1996-1999
CHEVROLET K3500 PICKUP 1996-2000
CHEVROLET LUMINA 1994-2001
CHEVROLET MALIBU 2000
CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO 1995-2005
CHEVROLET P30 1996-1999
CHEVROLET S10 BLAZER 1992
CHEVROLET S10 PICKUP 1994-2003
CHEVROLET SSR 2003-2004
CHEVROLET TAHOE 1999
CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER 2002-2004
CHEVROLET VENTURE 1997-2004
GMC C1500 PICKUP 1996-1997
GMC C1500 SUBURBAN 1997-1999
GMC C2500 PICKUP 1995-2000
GMC C2500 SUBURBAN 1996-1999
GMC C3500 PICKUP 1997-2000
GMC ENVOY 2004
GMC JIMMY 1994-2005
GMC K1500 PICKUP 1994-1997
GMC K1500 SUBURBAN 1996-1999
GMC K2500 PICKUP 1994-1999
GMC K2500 SUBURBAN 1997-1998
GMC K3500 1996-2000
GMC P3500 1996-1999
GMC SAFARI 1992-2004
GMC SAVANA 1500 1996-2001
GMC SAVANA 2500 1996-2002
GMC SAVANA 3500 1996-2002
GMC SONOMA 1992-2004
GMC YUKON 1996-1999
ISUZU ASCENDER 2003-2005
OLDSMOBILE 88 1996-1998
OLDSMOBILE 98 1995-1996
OLDSMOBILE ACHIEVA 1994-1997
OLDSMOBILE ALERO 1999-2004
OLDSMOBILE AURORA 2002
OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA 1993-2004
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 1998
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CIERA 1994-1996
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME 1995-1997
OLDSMOBILE INTRIGUE 1999
OLDSMOBILE LSS 1996-1999
OLDSMOBILE REGENCY 1997-1998
OLDSMOBILE SILHOUETTE 1996-2003
PONTIAC AZTEK 2002-2005
PONTIAC BONNEVILLE 1995-2005
PONTIAC FIREBIRD 1993-2001
PONTIAC GRAND AM 1995-2005
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX 1994-2003
PONTIAC GTO 2004-2005
PONTIAC MONTANA 2002-2004
PONTIAC SUNFIRE 1995-2005
PONTIAC TRANS SPORT 1997
SATURN ION 2003-2004
SATURN L SEDAN 2001-2003
SATURN L300 2004
SATURN LS SEDAN 2000
SATURN LW WAGON 2000-2001
SATURN VUE 2003-2004

I also, picked up a GM style 1 bar Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor (MAP) off of a Jeep Cherokee. Again, these sensors are used on a ton of different vehicles. 

ACURA 1996-1997
BUICK 1982-2003
CADILLAC 1983-1996
CHEVROLET 1982-2004
DODGE 1991
EAGLE 1991
GEO 1990-1993
GMC 1984-1999
HONDA 1994-1997
HUMMER 1995-1996
ISUZU 1988-1997
JEEP 1986-1996
OLDSMOBILE 1982-2004
PONTIAC 1981-2004
RENAULT 1983-1987
SATURN 1991-2002
VOLVO 1990-1995

Total for 4 sensors and the throttle body was $36.00 at the salvage yard. A pretty good score for the beginning of this project. 

 

Edited by ghcoe
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I just picked up a Microsquirt from EFI Source. I went with the 30" harness to save some funds because they just did a markup. The 8' harness went up another $24 while the 30" went up only $4. Might regret that later, but the 8' is available separate. It will cost me more in the long run if the 30" does not work out, however. 

Cost of Microsquirt with 30" harness was $339.00 without shipping and tax.

I had to make a adapter for the Ford Escort throttle body to fit onto the Opel plenum. I purchased some "6061 T651 Aluminum Sheet Metal 8"x12"x1/4" (6MM) Flat Plain Thick Aluminum Plate" off of a Amazon for $17.99. I show how I made this adapter earlier in this thread. 

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I picked up  a "Stainless Steel Throttle Cable kit, 36In Braided Throttle Cable" off of Amazon for $13.83.

Last year I picked up some "DEFUS 4X 0280150205 Bico Fuel Injector Tail Nozzle For Opel Ascona Astra Manta Carlton Senator 1.8-3.0L Petrol 817744 90141740" injectors from Aliexpress for $87.00. 

These are High Impedance injectors and work with the Microsquirt without extra components. They also flow a bit slower than the stock injectors which will allow the Microsquirt to work better with the fuel system on a stock motor. Probably has enough extra flow for a mild build as well.

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"AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge" This was purchased for another project off of Amazon a couple years ago, but I will be bringing it into this project to save some cash. This is not just a gauge but comes with a oxygen sensor and is a controller as well. You need a oxygen sensor controller to tell the Microsquirt what the air/fuel ratio is so it can calibrate the fuel flow. The cost on Amazon was $184.95.

I picked up a 4 relay 12 fuse box off of Aliexpress for $16.07 with relays and fuses.

With the Megasquirt you need fuses and relays in the system, this is a easy add on and will be enough for the Microsquirt needs as well as some other upgrades/addons that I plan to install at some time in the future. 

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On Aliexpress I was able to pick up a set of 8 "EV1 2 Pin automotive fuel Injector EFI connector Waterproof Electrical Wire Plug 1jz ev6 ev4 for Tyco Lucas & Bosch" plugs. These plugs came with wire boots and connector pins for .69 each. I purchased 8 for a total of $10.87. 

I have some wire pins and tools for wiring crimping, but still working out what I really need. Just a hit and miss with the electrical plugs so I have to adjust as I go work through it. I will add those items once I get things figured out. 

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Indeed, don’t try to crimp them with a ‘it will do’ tool. The proper pin crimping pliers are well worth their cost when building your loom. 
 

The flat edge on the spindle is common to many TPS, including some later SAAB cars that might be an option. Only thing that seems to change is the flat on some cars is 90degrees out. 

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38 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Indeed, don’t try to crimp them with a ‘it will do’ tool. The proper pin crimping pliers are well worth their cost when building your loom. 

Indeed. I picked up a 8-piece crimping tool set off Aliexpress. It was $20.00 and covers a wide variety of crimps with interchangeable dies. I was not expecting much, but it seems solid and has done a great job on the crimps I have done so far.

I am having troubles finding the right wire terminals though. I think I found some that might work, but they are not the correct ones. 

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50 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Should be Bosch EV1 pins. Amazon or eBay .com websites 

I have Bosch EV1 pins here. They don't look close.

The ones I have are square and have a slight dimple that protrudes out on the sides so you can't install them in the plug the wrong way. I have one that is close here, just not as tough looking. I am going to try them. Worst that can happen is I have to change them out at a later date. Unless I happen to figure out which ones I need before next weekend. 

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9 hours ago, ghcoe said:

I have Bosch EV1 pins here. They don't look close.

The ones I have are square and have a slight dimple that protrudes out on the sides so you can't install them in the plug the wrong way. I have one that is close here, just not as tough looking. I am going to try them. Worst that can happen is I have to change them out at a later date. Unless I happen to figure out which ones I need before next weekend. 

Hmm, post a picture mate. I have a load of different types here see If I can identify it for you. 
would it be mini timer style ? 

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-terminals/9097359

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11 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

Hmm, post a picture mate. I have a load of different types here see If I can identify it for you. 
would it be mini timer style ? 

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/automotive-connector-terminals/9097359

I could not get a good end shot. You can see the dimples on the sides. 

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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I really didn't know where to start with the installation. Digging around some I found this information http://www.microsquirt.info/uswiring.htm and this http://www.useasydocs.com/quickstart.htm. Lots of good information there. Lots of reading though.

I did find that on this page http://www.microsquirt.info/uswiring.htm if you scroll down a bit the color codes to the wires coming out of the Microsquirt. I figured I would start there.

This turned out to be a good start for me. The wires are individually marked as to what they are as in column 2 but real small print on the wires. Column 3 then tells you what that wire is for and in some cases more information that is useful to know and/or has a link to some more information. I slowly worked down this list and marked the wires that I needed for my application with larger print flags so I could find them easier. In doing this I was able to wrap my head around a lot of the questions that I had.

Once I marked all the wires I needed and knew more about what each wire was and what it did, the next step was to separate them out from all the other wires I did not need. Finding that I really only needed half of the wires for my application made me feel more comfortable with the project.

Now to start doing some wiring.
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After getting the wires sorted out, I figured I would start with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) since that is the farthest sensor away from the Microsquirt. I will work my way back to the Microsquirt in hopes that the 30" wires will be long enough for the job. ?hash=c5c5f5d3397d4b1f10eca7ea66dd71b6

 

The first thing to do is to figure out the pinout for the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Using the chart mentioned above, the wire description tells you how to figure out the pin out using a multimeter. In this case the pin out was A-Ground, B-Sense, C-+5 Vref. This turns out to be pretty common with Ford (TPS) sensors. You can see that the pins are marked ABC in the included picture below. 

 ?hash=c5c5f5d3397d4b1f10eca7ea66dd71b6

 

Well, that is as far as I got this week. More later.

1 hour ago, Jessopia74 said:

They look more like Ford tbh

I did not find anything under that. I think I may just solder the wires to the microsquirt harness. That will make it easy to keep the same type terminals. 

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I was able to get a few things done yesterday. 

 

First, I did some soldering. I could not find new terminal ends that matched the Escort plugs, so I decided to just solder the old terminals to the Megasquirt wires. I was able to release the tabs that held the insulation part of the wire. I then was able to work the wire back and forth enough to break off the wires pretty cleanly on the terminal. I then striped the new wire and laid it on top of the still clamped wire on the terminal. I found it easier to add a bit of solder onto the terminal first and then solder the new wire to that. I was then able to recrimp the insulation tabs onto the new wire making a nice tighty new terminal end. 

 

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After that I went out and pulled all the wring for the FI on the car. I also removed most of the vacuum lines and the air intake and filter box. I thought it would take a bit of time, but it only took about a hour. It looks much cleaner in there now.

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This morning, I worked on modifying the new gaskets I picked up. I purchased gaskets for the Escort throttle body. Then I used the throttle body adapter I made to mark the new holes I needed to cut into the gaskets. 

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Today I decided to get the new injectors installed.

I had already removed OEM FI wiring yesterday so to make things even easier I decided to remove the throttle linkage, since that will not be used with this conversion. I also removed the throttle body at the same time. This made getting to the injectors and fuel rail easier as well. You will want to remove the injectors and the fuel rail as one unit. It is so much easier than trying to wrestle with everything by removing them one by one.

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You just have to remove the two fuel supply lines, the fuel return line from the vacuum regulator and the two bolts that holds the injector trees to the manifold. Here is a

comparison of the new/old stock injectors.

OEM is Bosch 0280150104 (left), flow rate @ 43.5psi 18.0lbs, low resistance 2ohm.

New is Bosch 0282150205 (right), flow rate @ 36.25 16.2lbs, high resistance 12ohm.

I found a flow rate calculator to recalculate the 36.25lbs rating to 43.5lbs pressure. Turns out it is quite close to the stock injectors at 17.90. I had mentioned earlier that there was some confusion on what the 0280150205 injectors were rated at. Some sites said 43.5 and some said 36.25. In any case the old injectors had to be removed and replaced with High impedance injectors for the microsquirt to run without resistors. I'll cross my fingers that this does not create problems later. Ideally, they should be around 13lbs, I suppose I could source a 36.25psi regulator and drop it down some. 

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I do like that the new injectors have the hose crimped onto the body. This will clean up the hose work some, there is already a ton of clamps on this thing. The injectors came with new pintle seals, but no body O-rings. I had a set laying around that I got from Opel GT source. I also had one more injector plate seal from the same source. You can get the o rings most anyplace, but the only source I found for the injector plate gasket is Opel GT source.  

 ?hash=3904dc8ed816fe655bf7312e747880a1

I attached the new injectors to the fuel rails, but did not tighten the hose clamps till after I installed the injectors and tightened the trees to the injector plate.

And speaking of injector trees, I found one of the injector plates where the bolt that held the tree in place was stripped out. Not sure how long that had been, luckily, I had a extra injector plate laying around. The injector plate is like bakelite and easy to strip out or break if not careful. Two things to make it easier and less risky in damaging the injector plate. One is that I got something to leverage force where the bolt goes through the tree and applied enough force to seat the injectors as far as I could. This can be quite hard with new seals. In the picture below you can see how close I was able to get the tree to the injector plate. The bolt is now just sitting on top of the injector plate. You can see that you can get quite a bit of thread into the injector plate before it starts to seat the injectors with the tree. 

Second, hand tighten the bolt as far as you can and then go real slow minding the amount of force you are using to turn the bolt. The tree is designed to be tight against the injector plate for proper load on the seals. 

 ?hash=3904dc8ed816fe655bf7312e747880a1

After installing the injectors, I moved to test fitting the throttle body. I may have to install longer studs to accommodate for the spacer and gaskets. Or, I might be able to move the existing ones out a bit. I will have to see how far they thread into the plenum. Everything cleared fine!

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Maybe someone out there can help me out. It seems that there are 3 temperature sensors in the thermostat housing. One I know goes to the guage inside, but the other two (#1, #2) I am not sure. I think one is for the cold start injector and the other is for the ECM. Not sure which is which though. 

?hash=3904dc8ed816fe655bf7312e747880a1

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44 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said:

Thermotime & the Temp sensor for the ecu (loose term ofc) 

this should help you mate.  Last page for diagram 

 

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Not letting me see this. I am not a paid user. Now that you mentioned thermotime sensor it came back to me. I thought it had something to do with the cold start injector. I believe now that the sensor coming in from the back is the thermotime and the one pointing up next to the gauge sensor is the ECM temp sensor. Thanks! 

Edited by ghcoe
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