Spraying Advice - How Much Paint To Buy

[winnj]

Hi all,

I'm at the point now where i'm almost ready to spray my project (JUG 909V in projects section)

But....

How much paint will be required ?

I've got a custom basecoat x5L which mixed 1 - 1 with 2K thinners will give 10 litres of sprayable material more than enough me thinks.

However, how much etch primer will i need and also a HS primer ?

I was thinking 6L of each or is that going to be way to much ?

I've got to the point where i've read that much i can't figure out whats good advice.

Hoping someone willl be able to point me in the right direction

Thanks in advance

Jon

[mantaray]

5l of primer sould be plenty. 2.5 l of etch primer will do a whole car , but be carefull of breaking through the HS primer to the etch primer when rubbing down as this will corse a reaction with the base coat.

[Rick-Manta]

I bought my paint (cellulose) as a kit and they supplied 5 litres of high build primer, 5 litres of gloss black but oddly only 5 litres of thinners (what am I supposed to thin the primer with?) but even so its another indication for you.

[winnj]

Thanks for the info

Makes some more sense of other figures i'd been reading

Right better head off to the garage and carry on with the prep work

Jon

[mikemanta]

you only need a very light coat of etch primer so I would say 1 litre is more than enough. You only need it to cover bare metal.

[Shug]

I bought my paint (cellulose) as a kit and they supplied 5 litres of high build primer, 5 litres of gloss black but oddly only 5 litres of thinners (what am I supposed to thin the primer with?) but even so its another indication for you.

Jawel on ebay by any chance? Bought the same pack.

I covered the car with 1 litre of etch primer. Spraying the high build primer tomorrow but I'm not convinced I'll use any more than 2 litres.

[mikemanta]

It depends on how many coats you are going to put on, I would have thought about 3 litres by the time you have done the bumpers etc

[Leon]

I bought my paint (cellulose) as a kit and they supplied 5 litres of high build primer, 5 litres of gloss black but oddly only 5 litres of thinners (what am I supposed to thin the primer with?) but even so its another indication for you.

Never painted with Celly, but I found that with 2k you literally need a tiny splash of thinner or it comes out a bit "wet" - I'd say less than 5%.

I use about half a litre or so to clean up with after use though.

[Rick-Manta]

1 litre of etch primer!? I think I've used that on just the front wings alone. As for using cellulose, this is purely for the fact that 2K is far more poisonous and an air fed mask and full suit is a must whereas with enamel paints a charcoal mask will be fine so long as there's good ventilation. I would have prefered 2K but as I'm a beginner painter I didn't want to risk cyanide exposure.

I did see the Jawel paint kit but the one I bought was about £10 cheaper. I'll probably regret it once I see how shit the cheaper paint is

I've been advised to mix 50/50 paint to thinner and about a two parts primer with one of thinners? Eee, I hope that's right. My etch primer is from arsehole cans and I'm hoping not to need clearcoat, but if I can't shine it with that farecla G3, G6, etc then I'll order some laquer.

[mikemanta]

etch is only there to grip the bare metal it doesn't do anything else, so if you have got that much on a pair of wings i think it is a bit too thick you only need a mist coat let the filler primer do the work of getting rid of imperfections.

[mantaslittlehelper]

Will be spraying blacka's manta in the next few days and will be using 3 litres of high build primer/2 litres of basecoat and 3 litres of lacquer.Depends how many imperfections you have but 3 litres(when mixed) should do it.On Matthews I will spray a heavy coat of primer block flat dry with a guide coat and reduce papers down to a low grit then spray a thinned coat of primer and wet flat with 1500 down to 2000.Then apply base coat which can always be flat between coats followed by lacquer.Every one has there own preference but this works well for me with good results got pics to prove but the results were not on a manta so will not tarnish the forum with non manta pics Also remember to ask for the product mix as some are different from others and do not require as much thinners/hardners.

[lamchop77]

For painting with celly

Etch primer (the yellow watery stuff) very thin coat just to cover the bare metal - bear in mind this stuff is about as bad as 2k paint is!!!!! You can brush or rag this on, spraying can put too much on and leaves runs (tip from a sprayer)

Primer coats - if you want to build up the to fill a few pinholes in filler, etc use it thick 60/40, put on a few coats and flat back to anice finish. Last primer coat you can thin to a 30/70 mix and put a dash of the top coat colour in.

Top coats - start of thick 70/30 for 1-2 coats, flat back, 50/50 1-2 coats, flat back, finish on a couple of thin coats 30/70,flat back with 1500 then 2000 to an all over matt look, polish up with T-Cut. Farecla polish is only as good as T-Cut if you do it by hand. Wax with a non silicone wax.

This should give a nice deep colour. This is for a solid NOT base and laquer. For that i would think get a good couple of base coats on nice and flat then laquer a couple of times flatting between (Bit unsure of the flatting the laquer... but i think it would reduce the orange peel effect. I would ask your local paint guys about this)

HTH

Chris

[mantaslittlehelper]

^^^Flatting the lacquer does exactly that,reduces the orange peel but it will only be as good as the base coat underneath ie: if you have not done a good job on your prep work and your basecoat is wavey it will still show through.If anything more so when you have flat and polished your lacquer.When it comes to polishing if you are using a machine polisher post another thread and I will paste some vids/info that I found to be really helpfull.Polishing can go wrong really easy if not done properly and the results really show up in the paint work.

[Rick-Manta]

Thanks. I'll be machine polishing afterwards, however I know what I'm doing with this as I've mopped many a paintjob before. The only reason I'd laquer is if the top coat doesn't gloss up and given the vinyl roof staying for a while (it will be removed eventually) I think I'll have enough paint to give it a mile deep look, I hope