endakillian Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Thanks for the answers (personally i think the torque tube will break way before the axle breaks) Yeah i'd definately agree with you there. Steel torque tube? one last question (for now! )....what engine mounts did you use? Or did you make some? Looking forward to the updates.... Enda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akis-driver Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share Posted June 14, 2009 Yeah i'd definately agree with you there. Steel torque tube? Hi Enda what you say is one solution.But to be honest when the torque tube goes i will probably change the rear axle too so will go with a longer propshaft and remove the torque tube alltogether.I dont think is very effective anyway.To be seen... one last question (for now! )....what engine mounts did you use? Or did you make some? Had to make custom mounts.Its not difficult just takes a bit of trial and error to get right.I made two mounts one for each side of the engine and one for the gearbox.Im also going to use an engine damper attached to the top engine mount.I used 10mm steel plates for the mounts and a 50mm rubber mount on the croossmember (one on each side). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miilor Posted June 18, 2009 Share Posted June 18, 2009 Hello, Since I have seen that engine nonfodder in any more, he is perfect. I have seen engine like yours but B234L 200cv, it does not have the Ecu, it is difficult to find? …. megasquirt is good idea? . I also have Opel Omega gearbox and to rear subframe bmw E30 325 with LSD, fodder that is difficult to us to put in the manta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akis-driver Posted June 19, 2009 Author Share Posted June 19, 2009 Hello, Since I have seen that engine nonfodder in any more, he is perfect. I have seen engine like yours but B234L 200cv, it does not have the Ecu, it is difficult to find? …. megasquirt is good idea? . I also have Opel Omega gearbox and to rear subframe bmw E30 325 with LSD, fodder that is difficult to us to put in the manta All the B234 engines are the same only difference is the turbo on the good version (aero).Just make sure is from 1993 onwards as the gearbox wont fit.What do you mean by the 200cv i dont know. The ecu is not difficult to find there are loads around.Megasquirt is a bad idea in my opinion.The saab ecu is a motorola 32-bit unit and fully mappable.I would only consider changing with something like a motec or autronic but the cost would be major there.About the E30 Lsd is as difficult to fit on a manta as it is on mine.it can be done if you are brave with cutting and welding (and lots and lots of measuring).. If i were you i would get a whole car not only an engine it will save you loads of time searching for little bits that might be missing...saab 9000 prices are not high anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miilor Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 your engine is b235r 225cv and my engine is b235L 200cv,thanks for your answer, I wait with interest the progresses of your project http://www.vxopel.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?...=bmw+lsd#p22634. It does not seem very difficult Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miilor Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 where is engine Identification Numbers? engine is out of the car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akis-driver Posted June 20, 2009 Author Share Posted June 20, 2009 your engine is b235r 225cv and my engine is b235L 200cv,thanks for your answer, I wait with interest the progresses of your project My engine is a B234R not B235R.The B235 was introduced in 1998 and is a later model.I aldo dont think the B235 can fit the opel gearbox and is not as strong as the B234. If you have a B234L the only difference is the turbo.Yours is fitted with a Garrett T25...Nothing else is different. Identification numbers can be found on the inlet side of the engine block where the dipstick is and on the cylinder head there is also the year close to where the water outlet is on the rear of the engine.Hope this helps you mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miilor Posted June 20, 2009 Share Posted June 20, 2009 gracias Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul hinchy Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 wow only seen this now how is it coming along for you , looks like very good engine choice you have there , i read in ppc magazine where the lads that write the magazine were fitting this same engine into a mk2 escort , just wondering about the r25 you have fitted , the drive shaft is bolted to axle as standard manta shaft is yes ? and i am guessing that it is also bolted up at the gearbox end also , have you got any telescopic part fitted to shaft , so as to allow easier fittment without moving engine forward to get the shaft in place, and for going over jumps at high speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miilor Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 "By all means i think the conversion itself is not that difficult the difficult is to make the ecu to work as stand alone because the option of an aftermarket ecu is just too expensive for me at least (but i manage to have the wirring and ecu modded so i think on mine it will work-thats the plan anyway" "What i would advise to anyone wanting to try something similar is to find someone to do the wiring and ecu mapping for you first as thats the most important factor and also find someone thats good with machining and welding aluminium" my engine does not have coil pack, does not have to intercooler, non Ecu, not wiring, these pieces of ebay are good for my motor. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/sabb-900-turbo-coil-...%3A1%7C294%3A50 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/saab-9000-cse-turbo-...bayphotohosting http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SAAB-9000-A-C-RADIAT...%3A1%7C294%3A50 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Saab-9000-2-3-Turbo-...%3A2%7C294%3A50 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Saab-9000-2-0-2-3-Tu...%3A1%7C294%3A50 http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Saab-900-1994-98-9-3...%3A1%7C294%3A50 I must look for all the pieces to mount, soon it will look for somebody for the connection of Ecu in the manta, is very difficult and complicated? I do not need but power, 200cv is sufficient for my, and I have an expert friend in welding aluminum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akis-driver Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 just wondering about the r25 you have fitted , the drive shaft is bolted to axle as standard manta shaft is yes ? and i am guessing that it is also bolted up at the gearbox end also , have you got any telescopic part fitted to shaft , so as to allow easier fittment without moving engine forward to get the shaft in place, and for going over jumps at high speed There are different ways to do this.You can either use the drive shaft from a 1.8 manta that fits the R25 or do what i did and use the standard 2.0l driveshaft which i cut and welded the end from a bmw e30 thats the same as on the R25.I had an old e30 driveshaft thats why i did it this way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akis-driver Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 my engine does not have coil pack, does not have to intercooler, non Ecu, not wiring, these pieces of ebay are good for my motor. I must look for all the pieces to mount, soon it will look for somebody for the connection of Ecu in the manta, is very difficult and complicated? I do not need but power, 200cv is sufficient for my, and I have an expert friend in welding aluminum You have a couple of bits missing which in my opinion would end up costing a bit so my tip of the day would be to buy a complete car from a breakers and remove the bits that you want and selll the rest.The stuff from ebay is fine though.it really depends on you budget but trust me it will end up costing a lot more that you have imagined when you finish so try to find the parts as cheap as possible. Having a friend that knows how to weld aluminium is also a bonus which is going to save you a small fortune. The ecu can be expensive to set up so have a look arround for someone that knows how to remap for the application that you want (if you get stuck let me know and i try to help as much as i can).For me electronics was never my strong point so maybe for you is easier... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul hinchy Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 manta 1.8 and manta 2.0 drive shaft are both the same to look at and they have ends that slide in to the back of the gearbox off a manta wheras the r25 has a bolt on end , which means i lose my backwards and forwards movement , is your drive shaft solid or is it able to move in and out on itself any pics by any chance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akis-driver Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 manta 1.8 and manta 2.0 drive shaft are both the same to look at and they have ends that slide in to the back of the gearbox off a manta wheras the r25 has a bolt on end , which means i lose my backwards and forwards movement , is your drive shaft solid or is it able to move in and out on itself any pics by any chance My driveshaft is solid i just used the rubber donut between the drive shaft and the gearbox that come from the bmw e30.I thought the manta 1.8 also had a bolt on end my mistake then on that.I didnt take any photos on that part but will do when i resume the built in the end of July. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul hinchy Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 ya there is probably enough give in the rubber , maybe shaft does not move much because the torque tube is fixwd to the floor of the car and will not move much anyway ,,nice project tho a nice change fromn a redtop keep us updated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miilor Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 http://forums.mantaclub.org/topic/22848-engine-b234l-n/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akis-driver Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 Ok its been a while since i updated this thread so here goes... I have made a lot of progress with this project since last time. First of the new turbo im fitting.a td04 from a 9000 aero (t25 on the left - td04 on the right) Before it wend in a little clean up took place Here you can see with the exhaust housing removed The compressor inlet before And after The next step was the wastegate actuator.You can see the difference between the stock t25 actuator (nice and shiny) And then i went a bit crazy and started to paint everything (like the exhaust housing) And if that wasnt enought i decided to polish the compressor housing.Im very happy with how it come out And here is everything bolted together And then i bolted the turbo to the exhaust manifold I will post some more pics when i get the chance.Hope you guys enjoy!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SENNA1 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Bravo & hi from Cyprus! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d384 fhv Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Hi mate Nice project you have going, have you sorted the exhaust yet? if not, my mate cut a small section out of the panel just above the axle and welded a raised section like a box (nothing too big), but it allowed him to get a 2.5" exhaust pipe with no probs. Just an idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akis-driver Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 Bravo & hi from Cyprus! Thanks a lot my friend.Ive seen your car too nice one!!! I havent finished with the exhaust yet i only have a temporary one which is my old 2.5" system and that fits without the need to cut anything.The problem was with a 3" system not 2.5" but thanks for the tip i will probably have to do something similar!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d384 fhv Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 He lowered his car which is why it rubbed the bodywork, my 2.5" exhaust fits fine in my car (it does sit a bit high though, lol). Just wondered if you could cut and weld a deeper 'box' to cater for the 3" pipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akis-driver Posted March 4, 2010 Author Share Posted March 4, 2010 He lowered his car which is why it rubbed the bodywork, my 2.5" exhaust fits fine in my car (it does sit a bit high though, lol). Just wondered if you could cut and weld a deeper 'box' to cater for the 3" pipe Cut and weld a box will be my last option.I was thinking of having a custom oval shaped pipe where it goes over the axle or even a twin pipe set up...At the moment im happy with the 2.5" system Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d384 fhv Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 I agree mate, it does look crap, i did laugh when i saw it. Twin pipe sounds like the better option i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akis-driver Posted March 5, 2010 Author Share Posted March 5, 2010 Ok update time The next step was all the parts that needed welding to fit the car (its not that easy making a saab engine fit rwd) The most important is the sump.A lot of machining,design and welding has gone into. The starting point(original saab aluminium sump) After a bit of cutting and welding ended up looking like that The bowl was made And everything was welded together (i had 3 points leaking initially, which were easily welded again) The next was the pick up tube (absolute nightmare to weld but no other choise) And here is placed inside the sump bowl And to finish things off a sump plate to keep the oil in the right place And as an extra bonus i cut and welded the thermostat housing Who says welding aluminium is not fun!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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