Engine 1.9S What Is The Best Choice To Give A Little More Juice?

[costasa]

Hi,

I have an 1.9S in my manta A, i wish to put the engine with 140bhp is to use in the street at weekends relaxing and enjoy the drivebility of the car.

I think to convert to injection but reading several topic's here now i have some doughts (more work that i think).

What is better and economic to do, injection or carb?

If i will opt to injection what will be the best choice?

The carb solution fore the +- 140bhp is better 40weber(or solex) or 45.

For one solution or another i think i have to change the cam and another parts.

Thanks in advance

[MANTAMAN]

Opels did make Manta A Series with fuel injection, 'we' never got them in the UK and i dont know how many other eurpeon countries they were sold in apart from Germany.

You might be able to find one of these being broken or the parts from one which would mean converting to fuel injection would be a 'bolt on' job.

With an improved cylinder head and camshaft,a good exhaust and perhaps aftermarket re-programing (chip for the ECU) 140 bhp should be possible.

Using carbs will entail less work and getting 140 bhp with some cylinder head/camshaft modification should be easily possible though it wont drive as smoothly and it would use more fuel.

[costasa]

Opels did make Manta A Series with fuel injection, 'we' never got them in the UK and i dont know how many other eurpeon countries they were sold in apart from Germany.

You might be able to find one of these being broken or the parts from one which would mean converting to fuel injection would be a 'bolt on' job.

With an improved cylinder head and camshaft,a good exhaust and perhaps aftermarket re-programing (chip for the ECU) 140 bhp should be possible.

Using carbs will entail less work and getting 140 bhp with some cylinder head/camshaft modification should be easily possible though it wont drive as smoothly and it would use more fuel.

In Germany the Manta A with injection system was Manta A GT/E a very rare version, in the US in 1974/75 the Manta A was sold with the injection system.

In the german Ebay is easy to find injection systems to the 2.0E or 2.2E completes i see them sold for 100€ - 200€

Send from the States is the problem with the custom services, the chharges that they aplied are high.

[costasa]

In the site http://www.opeltuners.com/ i can find an article explain what i need to convert to injection system, the biggest problem that i think is obtain a injection tank from manta A, i was reading some post here and i need a special cam to injection system, i don't find any information about any one transform a 1.9 to injection system.

The Carb solution is a more easy way but the price for the carbs and manifold are more high.

Maybe i go to the carb solution but loosing some bhp to be more soft.

I was reading the transform of the ascona A and i find a good solution (i think)

http://www.hacoma.de...shtml?w_1_0.htm

Steinmetz Modification (1973):

The tuning company Steinmetz (Rüsselsheim / Germany) presented in 1973 an optical und technical modified car, based on the Ascona A 1.9 Rally-model. See details below:

Modifications:

2 double sidedraft carburetors (Solex 40 DDH), camshaft with an opening angle of 296 degrees, harder valve springs and lightend valve lifters, "Sprint"-exhaust manifold, internally ventilated disk brakes in front, bigger slave cylinder and a brake power controller at the rear axle, progressive coil springs (-30mm), Koni shock-absorbers, aluminium rims (6J X 13), 185/70 HR 13 - belted tyres, front- and rear spoiler, sports seats, sports steering wheel

Technical Data :

Total Displacement: 1897 cc

Power Output: 120 HP (88 kW)

Acceleration Time 0-100 km/h: 10 sec

Top Speed: 184,6 km/h (114 MPH)

Edited December 21, 2009 by costasa

[kerplunk]

I converted my A-series Ascona from carb to 2.0 GTE injection and just sent the original tank off to get a return pipe welded in, cost around £40, worked a treat.

[costasa]

I converted my A-series Ascona from carb to 2.0 GTE injection and just sent the original tank off to get a return pipe welded in, cost around £40, worked a treat.

Hi, can you described the process of conversion and the mods that you made?

Put a return pipe in the thanks is not the problem, i think the problem is the curves the gas in the tank will fail and the pump will pull air amd in a injection system that will be a problem.

[kerplunk]

Hi, can you described the process of conversion and the mods that you made?

Put a return pipe in the thanks is not the problem, i think the problem is the curves the gas in the tank will fail and the pump will pull air amd in a injection system that will be a problem.

The pipe just dumps the return fuel next to the outlet, apart from that there's nothing else changed.

I only get the problem of it sucking up air is if the fuel is low and I'm ragging it, on anything over 2/5 of a tank, I've never a problem.

That said, only a few weeks ago I tore the injection out and suck a carb on there. Easier to get more power, less hassle. If something goes wrong im more likely able to fix it!

It's just a standard Solex for the time being but I'm going to either stick some twin Webbers on there or give the bike carb route a shot. There's a place near where I live which make custom manifolds for bike carbs.

[costasa]

The pipe just dumps the return fuel next to the outlet, apart from that there's nothing else changed.

I only get the problem of it sucking up air is if the fuel is low and I'm ragging it, on anything over 2/5 of a tank, I've never a problem.

That said, only a few weeks ago I tore the injection out and suck a carb on there. Easier to get more power, less hassle. If something goes wrong im more likely able to fix it!

It's just a standard Solex for the time being but I'm going to either stick some twin Webbers on there or give the bike carb route a shot. There's a place near where I live which make custom manifolds for bike carbs.

I will to the carb solution, i just bought in ebay a pair off dellorto 40dhla and a linkage for a great price and that was the bigest reason to go carb i will try to do something like steinmetz do to ascona A

I bougth the dellortos but what is better dellorto or weber??

I was reading some sites and the opinions are very diferent.

For the cams what recomend ??

Thanks

[lamchop77]

I will to the carb solution, i just bought in ebay a pair off dellorto 40dhla and a linkage for a great price and that was the bigest reason to go carb i will try to do something like steinmetz do to ascona A

I bougth the dellortos but what is better dellorto or weber??

I was reading some sites and the opinions are very diferent.

For the cams what recomend ??

Thanks

I have always used Dellorto carbs, they seem to stay in tune better and power outputs are the same. Rolling road guy agrees.

Cam choice will be a bit limited with the std pistons so the max will be something like a 234 KENT CAM. You may get valve to piston clearence problems if the head/block have been skimmed too much.

HTH

chris

Edited January 4, 2010 by lamchop77

[costasa]

I have always used Dellorto carbs, they seem to stay in tune better and power outputs are the same. Rolling road guy agrees.

Cam choice will be a bit limited with the std pistons so the max will be something like a 234 KENT CAM. You may get valve to piston clearence problems if the head/block have been skimmed too much.

HTH

chris

Thanks for the info lamchop77, it looks that i made a good choice with the dellorto, now i have to recive (thanks to ebay ) a kit to rebuild the carbs and the book how to rebuild and tune the weber and dellorto carbs.

For now the pistons will be standard, i'm thinking in porting the 1.9 head, i was reading how to do that in the opelgt forum http://www.opelgt.co...ion/3-articles/ and it looks that a simple porting can help a lot, just the exaust porting helps in 40%.

The cam i'm looking in the internet for one more suite for my pocket, it looks that the Kent 234 are a good choice the Piper have others the 270 and the 280

I found this info about cams to the CIH engine

http://tekenaar.opel...gtcamspecs.html

Just a question i read some were that the cams give the same power or improvement but to diferent range, that is true?

I want something to give good response between 2000-6000rpm is not to race but for a good and fun street use.

[lamchop77]

Thanks for the info lamchop77, it looks that i made a good choice with the dellorto, now i have to recive (thanks to ebay ) a kit to rebuild the carbs and the book how to rebuild and tune the weber and dellorto carbs.

For now the pistons will be standard, i'm thinking in porting the 1.9 head, i was reading how to do that in the opelgt forum http://www.opelgt.co...ion/3-articles/ and it looks that a simple porting can help a lot, just the exaust porting helps in 40%.

The cam i'm looking in the internet for one more suite for my pocket, it looks that the Kent 234 are a good choice the Piper have others the 270 and the 280

I found this info about cams to the CIH engine

http://tekenaar.opel...gtcamspecs.html

Just a question i read some were that the cams give the same power or improvement but to diferent range, that is true?

I want something to give good response between 2000-6000rpm is not to race but for a good and fun street use.

The 234 Kent cam gives a range of 2500-6500 and is classed as a fast road/rally cam so is exactly what you want. I go on Opel GT forums quite a bit and the info on there is very good (especially rally bobs articles). For the cylinder head the best approach for home porting is to just clean up the ports and smooth off the sharp edges, also round off the lump where the valve comes through into the port, don't remove it just try to make it more aerodynamic (best way i can describe what to do simply). The best increase in flow would be gained by fitting 45mm inlet valves from the 2.2/2.4 CIH engines. There were a set of inlet and exhausts for sale on here not so long since.

Just for your info i have a 2.0 motor std pistons, 234 cam, 40 dellortos, vernier timing gear with a mildly ported head with 45mm inlet valves, std manifold that was linked to a 21/2," system and after rolling roading gave 157 bhp. With a bit more compression, lightening and balencing with a light flywheel it would have given more.

I don't really like the piper cams, had a few problems with them in the past. The 234 kent cam used to come as a complete kit wit followers,retainers,springs all in one so was prety good value.

HTH

Chris

[costasa]

The 234 Kent cam gives a range of 2500-6500 and is classed as a fast road/rally cam so is exactly what you want. I go on Opel GT forums quite a bit and the info on there is very good (especially rally bobs articles). For the cylinder head the best approach for home porting is to just clean up the ports and smooth off the sharp edges, also round off the lump where the valve comes through into the port, don't remove it just try to make it more aerodynamic (best way i can describe what to do simply). The best increase in flow would be gained by fitting 45mm inlet valves from the 2.2/2.4 CIH engines. There were a set of inlet and exhausts for sale on here not so long since.

Just for your info i have a 2.0 motor std pistons, 234 cam, 40 dellortos, vernier timing gear with a mildly ported head with 45mm inlet valves, std manifold that was linked to a 21/2," system and after rolling roading gave 157 bhp. With a bit more compression, lightening and balencing with a light flywheel it would have given more.

I don't really like the piper cams, had a few problems with them in the past. The 234 kent cam used to come as a complete kit wit followers,retainers,springs all in one so was prety good value.

HTH

Chris

Hi Cris,

Thanks again for the advice, for me is important to have opinions and discuss this stuff with people wo share the know how, in the opelgt forum the rally bob is a master in the cih engine.

When i ported the head i'm gonna follow your advice and just clean and smooth the edges.

When you change the valves can you use unlead fuel, i read something that is just change the valves and we can use unlead fuel.

I will try to do something like you have in your engine. What is your opinion of the Dbilas cam?

To improve the exaust system i bought sport center and rear exaust of Ansa with 2'' pipe, is not big but i think that will help.

I'm searching now for the exaust manifold the one of the 1.9 have a suport to heat the carb and with the twin carbs that will not help. I think that the 2.0s manifold will work, made one customized i think it will work more in big engine to ultra performance.

Cheers

Costa

[lamchop77]

Hi Cris,

Thanks again for the advice, for me is important to have opinions and discuss this stuff with people wo share the know how, in the opelgt forum the rally bob is a master in the cih engine.

When i ported the head i'm gonna follow your advice and just clean and smooth the edges.

When you change the valves can you use unlead fuel, i read something that is just change the valves and we can use unlead fuel.

I will try to do something like you have in your engine. What is your opinion of the Dbilas cam?

To improve the exaust system i bought sport center and rear exaust of Ansa with 2'' pipe, is not big but i think that will help.

I'm searching now for the exaust manifold the one of the 1.9 have a suport to heat the carb and with the twin carbs that will not help. I think that the 2.0s manifold will work, made one customized i think it will work more in big engine to ultra performance.

Don't know about DBilas cams as the supplier over here is not interested in dealing with people with the CIH motors. Alot of guys in europe use them with good results, Hiro on opel gt forums would probably know more. The manifold i used on the 2.0 motor was one which had the carb bolted to it, all i did was seal the hloe up with a thickish (3mm) plate. The 2" system should work quite well.

As for the unleaded bit, you need to get unleaded inserts put into the head, the valves will be ok.

Just remember to match the inlet ports to the inlet manifold, you can do the exhausts but it's not quite as important. Also don't polish the ports to a mirror finish leave them with a little roughness, a mirror finish will actually retrict the flow.

HTH

Chris

[costasa]

Don't know about DBilas cams as the supplier over here is not interested in dealing with people with the CIH motors. Alot of guys in europe use them with good results, Hiro on opel gt forums would probably know more. The manifold i used on the 2.0 motor was one which had the carb bolted to it, all i did was seal the hloe up with a thickish (3mm) plate. The 2" system should work quite well.

As for the unleaded bit, you need to get unleaded inserts put into the head, the valves will be ok.

Just remember to match the inlet ports to the inlet manifold, you can do the exhausts but it's not quite as important. Also don't polish the ports to a mirror finish leave them with a little roughness, a mirror finish will actually retrict the flow.

HTH

Chris

Hi Chris,

I will try to enter in contact with Hiro in opelgt forum to know more about dbilas cam.

Thanks for your tips and knowledge i will try to porting like you advice, and i will search more info about the unlead inserts.

I have to improve my english because there are some technic words (and construction sentences) that i don't know, allways learnig at OMOC lol

Yesterday arrived some more stuff to improve my manta, a Facet pump silver top and Sytec fuel pressure regulator.

What fuel pressure you use in your dellorto?

The distributor electronic conversion will help to improve sparking and burnig of the fuel? If yes what will be the best conversion?

Cheers

Samuel

[lamchop77]

Hi Chris,

I will try to enter in contact with Hiro in opelgt forum to know more about dbilas cam.

Thanks for your tips and knowledge i will try to porting like you advice, and i will search more info about the unlead inserts.

I have to improve my english because there are some technic words (and construction sentences) that i don't know, allways learnig at OMOC lol

Yesterday arrived some more stuff to improve my manta, a Facet pump silver top and Sytec fuel pressure regulator.

What fuel pressure you use in your dellorto?

The distributor electronic conversion will help to improve sparking and burnig of the fuel? If yes what will be the best conversion?

Cheers

Samuel

Samuel

I used a red top facet pump plumbed straight to the carbs with no regulator on, worked fine. I think the facet pumps deliver on demand.

The distributor i used was a std Manta GTE bosch unit, but i would now get one modified to fast road/rally spec by a company in the uk H & H Ignition solutions. I am going to be switching to fully mappable ignition in the future.

HTH

Chris

[costasa]

Samuel

I used a red top facet pump plumbed straight to the carbs with no regulator on, worked fine. I think the facet pumps deliver on demand.

The distributor i used was a std Manta GTE bosch unit, but i would now get one modified to fast road/rally spec by a company in the uk H & H Ignition solutions. I am going to be switching to fully mappable ignition in the future.

HTH

Chris

Hi Chris, i choose the facet silver top because they say that was good up to 150bhp and i don't expect to achive this bhp so i think it will be ok.

I have a delco distributor and the solutions to convert to electronic are focus in the bosch distributor, i was in the Lumenition site http://www.lumenition.com/ and it looks they have a optic kit to delco but i don't understain very weel what parts i need.

One solution is to put a bosch distributor from early models but i don't know if it will work fine with the advance.

Your engine with a full mapped distributor will burn rubber in the road

Cheers

Costa

[vauxsenb]

Samuel

I used a red top facet pump plumbed straight to the carbs with no regulator on, worked fine. I think the facet pumps deliver on demand.

The distributor i used was a std Manta GTE bosch unit, but i would now get one modified to fast road/rally spec by a company in the uk H & H Ignition solutions. I am going to be switching to fully mappable ignition in the future.

HTH

Chris

Hi Guys,

I am running a very similer set-up, Red top facet pump, sytec reg (set @ 3.5psi) Webber and Dellorto both advise 3psi but I found fuel starvation above 5000rpm at times not every time tho' so tweeked it up a bit.

Now I have gone down the R1 carb route and response is notably improved over the Weber's I was using.

Next step is the Megajolt jnr set-up wich does away with the distributor completely and uses Ford DIS pack and crank trigger wheel with great results so I am told, also has the benefit of being fully programable (from Laptop) and has a built in rev-limiter. *It should be noted you will need to retain the dissy drive shaft as it also drives the oil pump, my 'guru' has modded an old dissy and made a cut down shaft with a bush and top plate that sits flush with the block.*

Mine is lightened and balanced and running a Kent cam, Janspeed 4-branch with a 2 1/2ins system from Peco, not noisy but breaths freely, now just having some ground clearance issues as the car sits fairly low and is still on 13" wheels so tunneled floor or oval pipe needed for this year

Keep up the good work Costasa, and well-done Chris for all your info, you wont go far wrong following Rally Bob's advice.

Cheers, Colin.

[mantadoc]

Looks a lovely car but I always cringe when I see a straight iron bar attached near the very bendable front of the car coming all the way back at chest height.

Manta steering columns are collapsable and look how much farther back the bottom of the column is from the front of the car.

[lamchop77]

Hi Guys,

I am running a very similer set-up, Red top facet pump, sytec reg (set @ 3.5psi) Webber and Dellorto both advise 3psi but I found fuel starvation above 5000rpm at times not every time tho' so tweeked it up a bit.

Now I have gone down the R1 carb route and response is notably improved over the Weber's I was using.

Next step is the Megajolt jnr set-up wich does away with the distributor completely and uses Ford DIS pack and crank trigger wheel with great results so I am told, also has the benefit of being fully programable (from Laptop) and has a built in rev-limiter. *It should be noted you will need to retain the dissy drive shaft as it also drives the oil pump, my 'guru' has modded an old dissy and made a cut down shaft with a bush and top plate that sits flush with the block.*

Mine is lightened and balanced and running a Kent cam, Janspeed 4-branch with a 2 1/2ins system from Peco, not noisy but breaths freely, now just having some ground clearance issues as the car sits fairly low and is still on 13" wheels so tunneled floor or oval pipe needed for this year

Keep up the good work Costasa, and well-done Chris for all your info, you wont go far wrong following Rally Bob's advice.

Cheers, Colin.

Colin

Why are you using the Megajolt jnr over say the emerald system? Purely cost or are they more reliable, etc. I only ask as i will be investing in a fully programmable set up hopefully before the end of the year. Your guru wouldn't be Dave Jackson by any chance?

Just for info i have had an alloy front pulley made up which has a built in trigger wheel (same as the frontera pitch) but it weighs 465g rather than the usual 3.5kg. With the Emerald system you can then use the std frontera sensor in its original position.

What sort of power is your motor chucking out? Thought of switching to bike carbs but have heard varying reports from awesome to not good at all. Thought of putting them on either the 2.3 or the 2.5 that i'm building but both of these should put out over the 200 mark, the 2.5 could reach 250 if i get all the right stuff working together, so i'm a bit doubtful whether the bike carbs will stretch to that sort of power.

Cheers

Chris

[costasa]

Hi Guys,

I am running a very similer set-up, Red top facet pump, sytec reg (set @ 3.5psi) Webber and Dellorto both advise 3psi but I found fuel starvation above 5000rpm at times not every time tho' so tweeked it up a bit.

Now I have gone down the R1 carb route and response is notably improved over the Weber's I was using.

Next step is the Megajolt jnr set-up wich does away with the distributor completely and uses Ford DIS pack and crank trigger wheel with great results so I am told, also has the benefit of being fully programable (from Laptop) and has a built in rev-limiter. *It should be noted you will need to retain the dissy drive shaft as it also drives the oil pump, my 'guru' has modded an old dissy and made a cut down shaft with a bush and top plate that sits flush with the block.*

Mine is lightened and balanced and running a Kent cam, Janspeed 4-branch with a 2 1/2ins system from Peco, not noisy but breaths freely, now just having some ground clearance issues as the car sits fairly low and is still on 13" wheels so tunneled floor or oval pipe needed for this year

Keep up the good work Costasa, and well-done Chris for all your info, you wont go far wrong following Rally Bob's advice.

Cheers, Colin.

Just a beautifull engine, i loved the gt head cover.

The R1 carbs must give a good kick, for now i want something more holdschool

The solution to the brakes is interesting, i have a little luck because my brakes are in the other side lol

Cheers

Costa

[vauxsenb]

Hi Chris,

My choice was purely based on budget, had it been no expense spared I would use Emerald every time, but too many toys and not enough bucks their capabilities are fairly similer so I couldn't justify the extra cost over the Megajolt for what is essentially another summer toy. BHP wise I would hope that by the time the Megajolt is on we should be seeing in the region of 170, not heaps but lots of useable low down so less stirring the box to make it sit up and go.

edit, Forgot to add link; http://www.autosportlabs.com/

The original mount will be used for the crank sensor(its a 2.2 block) and the pulley will come from http://trigger-wheels.com/store/index1.html Where did you get yours Chris??

Re the bike carbs, I used the Kiehen R1's found on Yamaha's but there are bigger throated carbs from the likes of Kawasaki ZZR and Honda's Blackbird which are 42/44mm, the R1's are only 40mm but tried and tested and very easy to open up the jets, shift needles etc, my builder says the design is not dissimilar to the S.U. carb of bygone days to work with and his opinion is they are far superior to the Weber set-up that he fitted previously (again my choice).

I would try speaking to some of the rally boys as an engine builder down here, Billy Faulkner, who only builds VX motors (to go in anything) has 3 engines winning various classes of last years rally series and can get 200bhp out of a 16v 1.4 !!!! he likes the bike carbs so they cant be so bad now can they.

Cheers, Colin

p.s. Mantadoc, I apreciate what you say re the servo link rod, but there is a re-enforced plate fitted where the servo used to mount as we found it flexed so hopefully a dual purpose mod that may also deflect in the event of a front on impact, I suspect its more likely I will hit something with the side or tail-end the way I drive tho'

Edited January 6, 2010 by vauxsenb

[mantadoc]

Re the bike carbs, I used the Kiehen R1's found on Yamaha's but there are bigger throated carbs from the likes of Kawasaki ZZR and Honda's Blackbird which are 42/44mm, the R1's are only 40mm but tried and tested and very easy to open up the jets, shift needles etc, my builder says the design is not dissimilar to the S.U. carb of bygone days to work with and his opinion is they are far superior to the Weber set-up that he fitted previously (again my choice).

Next to fuel injection SU carbs used to provide the best fuel economy.

Fixed choke carbs suffer from a flat spot when the butterfly snaps open, which lowers air speed, to cover this up many fixed choke carbs use an accelerator pump which squirts "neat" fuel into the air, something SU style carbs don't need to do.

[vauxsenb]

Colin

What sort of power is your motor chucking out? Thought of switching to bike carbs but have heard varying reports from awesome to not good at all. Thought of putting them on either the 2.3 or the 2.5 that i'm building but both of these should put out over the 200 mark, the 2.5 could reach 250 if i get all the right stuff working together, so i'm a bit doubtful whether the bike carbs will stretch to that sort of power.

Cheers

Chris

Chris, just spoke to my builder and he thinks you would struggle to see 200bhp on the R1's, in fact said straight out it is not possible, maybe's with a 42 or 44mm carb or poss throttle bodies from a 'Busa' ???

Cheers, Colin.

[costasa]

I my research for information to improve the engine performance i send a question to the Luminition to know what parts to use in my ac delco distributor.

This is the answer, may helps others.

" Dear Sir,Thank you for your product enquiry.

Please accept our apologies for the delay in replying.

You would need a fitting kit FK316 and an Optronic power module and optical switch PMA60.

We can offer you these two items for £185.65 including carriage.

Please let me know if you need further information or if anything is unclear.

Yours sincerely,

Autocar Sales Support

Please see our web site at www.autocar-electrical.com for further information on our products

© Autocar Electrical Equipment Co. Ltd 49-51 Tiverton Street SE1 6NZ UK Tel +44 (0) 20 7403 4334

-----Original Message-----

From: Samuel Costa [mailto:.....@yahoo.com]

Sent: 30 December 2009 00:07

To: Support

Subject: Lumenition

Hello,

My name is Samuel, and at this moment i'm restoring a opel manta A 1.9 with a ACDelco i will put two dellorto 40 in the engine so i want to improve the carburation putting more spark and loosing the condensor and contact.

I was looking in your site and i was a litle confuse, can you tell me what parts i will need? I know i need the fk314 (ac delco) but the other stuf is a litle confuse.

Thanks in advance

Samuel Costa "

For the tipe of power i want this will be a good solution, my confusion was with the modules to use, in the list of the site they say that is the fk314 but in the answer they say that is the kit fk316 wen i reach this point in my restoration i will inquery them again.

Cheers

Edited January 12, 2010 by costasa

[lamchop77]

Chris, just spoke to my builder and he thinks you would struggle to see 200bhp on the R1's, in fact said straight out it is not possible, maybe's with a 42 or 44mm carb or poss throttle bodies from a 'Busa' ???

Cheers, Colin.

Colin

Firstly the pulley and trigger wheel i had designed and manufactured from ally so its all custom job, but i will probably be ordering 1 or 2 including a couple of lightweight steel flywheels feb time. Just for your info i ran a 2.2 fully modded motor on a 2.0 bosch std dizzy/coil set up and that was putting out 175-180 bhp and had masses of low down grunt. Not programmable but cheap!!!!

I'll probably go with the emerald set up and throttle bodies, its tried and tested so its sometimes alot easier and less time consuming to just stump up the cash.

Did have a chat with a bike carb guy who said i'd probably need bigger than that so id need two sets of carbs from some big twin machine...can't remember wht it was now!!!

Cheers

Chris