eddie goh Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 I have a 1983 Manta 2.0 GTE FWD coupe. I have a problem with my car rpm. Presently it is tuned to 1200 rpm but when the engine is hot, it will shoot up to 1600 to1800rpm. I tuned it to 1200 rpm because when I switched on the air-con, the engine will stalled if it is tuned to 1000rpm or below. May i know how can I retify this problem. Thank you, Eddie Goh Singapore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyc Posted July 30, 2011 Share Posted July 30, 2011 Hi Eddie Sounds like an air leak somewhere on the sysetm. You should be able to keep the idle set @ around a 1000rpm even with the Air con as you should have a Idle Kicker Valve on the inlet system which is just another idle speed control valve which is controled by the AC system and bypass the normal idle valve. I'd first look at an air leak and then at both idle valves in case one is sticking open, that is of course if you are running genuine Opel AC. If you want some pictures of the AC intake system let me know and i'll get some posted up Cheers Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted July 31, 2011 Share Posted July 31, 2011 If your injection system is fitted with the newer bosch models it should have a cold starter valve on the rear of the manifold (it is an extra injector with a blue connector). This can sometimes get stuck, and simply removing the connector is an easy way of telling if this is the thing making the problem. Other things that can implement iddle is the ignition and this could be a good place to look as well. If the ignition retard box is screwed it can also breathe false air here ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted August 1, 2011 Share Posted August 1, 2011 If your injection system is fitted with the newer bosch models it should have a cold starter valve on the rear of the manifold (it is an extra injector with a blue connector). This can sometimes get stuck, and simply removing the connector is an easy way of telling if this is the thing making the problem. Except that doesn't get stuck, it's the thermo time switch that controls it that does but disconnecting it is a good diagnostic step. Most times pinching the pipe Teed off the AFM to Throttle body, which runs to the auxiliary air valve, flat can be used to show it is the auxiliary air valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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