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Cih Valve Stem Oil Seals Replacement


conaero
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Guy, I am after some advice.

My valve stem oil seals have gone hard and whilst at the village garage, was told they can be replace in situ, i.e. without removing the head. The mechanic said he broke his took to do it and has been on the look out for a new one with no joy.

Can anyone advise me of someone who can do the job for me (does it regularly) near me on the South Coast area (West Sussex/Hampshire/Surrey)???

I did start a thread back last year, but was not conclusive other that feeding string down the bore then brining the piston up so the valve does not fall out.

Edited by conaero
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It's a very slow and needs a lot of patience doing it with string, but it does work, I did it with a straight six bedford engine years ago, come to think of it, after I'd finished the job I was wondering if taking the head off would not have taken much more time! if you havent done it before don't be to mean with the string, get plenty of it in there. get the top of the piston just up to the bottom of the plug hole, and use a screwdriver to spread the string around, covering as much of the piston as possible.with as much thickness of string as possible. And I don't need to remind you to take the driver out before bringing the piston up :o Good luck :thumbup

Edited by Julian
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yes it can be done with the head on. if its the plugs that are fouling up then it will be the inlet seals. if you are getting a puff of smoke on start up & after putting your foot back on the gas after a downhill run then most likely the exhaust seals.you were right with the string & piston method & will need a tool to push the valve caps down.i made one from a flat wide strip of 6mm steel that slides over a rocker stud & lays on the valve cap ,with a large hole on the middle to get at the collets.i put a spacer on the rocker stud & then wind down a nut to compress spring.whilst this method will work perfectly ok to get at the oil seal the only main problem is that it can disturb a lot of deposits/carbon in the combustion chamber & piston. fair anough you can vacuum some out or spin over on starter before plugs go back in but im sure some will remain & cause some scratches or slight damage afterwards. you always make sure everything is spotless inside when doing a head gasket job so this kind of defeats that idea. personally i would only use this method as a quick fix on an engine youre not too worried about.but thats only my opinion remember.

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yes it can be done with the head on. if its the plugs that are fouling up then it will be the inlet seals. if you are getting a puff of smoke on start up & after putting your foot back on the gas after a downhill run then most likely the exhaust seals.you were right with the string & piston method & will need a tool to push the valve caps down.i made one from a flat wide strip of 6mm steel that slides over a rocker stud & lays on the valve cap ,with a large hole on the middle to get at the collets.i put a spacer on the rocker stud & then wind down a nut to compress spring.whilst this method will work perfectly ok to get at the oil seal the only main problem is that it can disturb a lot of deposits/carbon in the combustion chamber & piston. fair anough you can vacuum some out or spin over on starter before plugs go back in but im sure some will remain & cause some scratches or slight damage afterwards. you always make sure everything is spotless inside when doing a head gasket job so this kind of defeats that idea. personally i would only use this method as a quick fix on an engine youre not too worried about.but thats only my opinion remember.

You raised a good point there, something that I had forgotten about, but remember now that I did have problems with bits of carbon, in fact some bits got stuck under a valve , but very lucky it did clear, the wagon was only an old ex WD truck used by a coal merchant!

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Cheers guys. I would like to change both inlet and outlet.

What I am getting is a lot of smoke when the car is hot, the I switch it off for 5-10 mins the restart.

Also am getting smoke on full chat, like 100mph plus.

The engine was totally rebuilt about 10 years ago and has covered 2000 miles in that time so the lack of use the seals have gone hard I feel.

Any ideas where I can get the seals from? It's a CIH 1.9 head and has P2E stamped on it, and comes from an 80's Record I was led to believe.

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p2e denotes that the head is from a fuel injection 2 litre engine with unleaded valve seats, not a 1.9 ( these were never unleaded or in 80`s rekords.)the stem oil seals should be readily available on ebay or possibly from gm dealers still.maybee poor quality seals were used in the rebuild as i wouldnt have thought they would be kaput yet!.if the inlet seals are gone the plugs would be fouling up. i would check that the crankcase breather mesh is clean first as if this is gunged up oil can be forced into the inlet rather than filtered out. worth checking first .

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Cheers guys. I would like to change both inlet and outlet.

What I am getting is a lot of smoke when the car is hot, the I switch it off for 5-10 mins the restart.

Also am getting smoke on full chat, like 100mph plus.

The engine was totally rebuilt about 10 years ago and has covered 2000 miles in that time so the lack of use the seals have gone hard I feel.

Any ideas where I can get the seals from? It's a CIH 1.9 head and has P2E stamped on it, and comes from an 80's Record I was led to believe.

100 MPH. Plus? WOW, not much wrong with that CIH :o

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