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4 Linked Axle


Denis K
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use a salisbury 4ha axle from reliant scimiter(ebay) jag diffs fit these,

cut/buy new spring cups weld in correct place, use short top torque arms to stregnthened points on chassis where anti roll bar fits.

do away with roll bar

you can either use panard rod or even better use reliant watts linkage for better location.

other advice will be on its way. contact retropower

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not saying the seats are the comfiest in the world, but its basically a simple balance to strike, the comfier the seat, the shorter the upper arms, and the shorter the arms, the worse the diff nose pitching in bump and droop. We went as short as we dared (I drew it up on CAD and worked out the diff pitch but can't remember it now!)

2011_05020034.jpg

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Im trying to work this all out in my head. Im pretty handy with the spanners and welder but lads this is serious stuff and fair dues to ye who have done this.

So would I use the original mounting points on the car for the lower arms? and I would still be able tu use manta springs and shocks and panhard rod yes obviously with all the brackets welded to the new axle int the correct places?

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I totally understand now what has to be done.

What i am worried about is lining everything up properly as i only have a normal garage and wouldnt have a hi tec setup.

Attatching the brackets to the axle in the correct places at the correct angle i would manage by making up jigs out of steel I think.

Its welding the upper brackets to the chassis and having the axle set up in the correct place with the diff at the correct angle is what worries me.

For the lads who have done this what methods did ye use if ye dont mind sharing the information?

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Sounds bad but you don't have to be quite as accurate as you might think!

make your links adjustable, and get your mounts within a couple of mm from one side to the other side and you will be more accurate than the cars were originally!

Its just a case of measuring and marking everything out very carefully. Doing Curts car in the pics above I didn't use any fancy tools at all

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if you do it using commodore/victor/400 type links as above (they need lengthening if you use std brackets on the shell) then I have all the dimensions, message me and I'll send you them. I also have the details of the poly bushes I used at the axle end of the lower links and the rose joints for the front end of the links. The upper links are shortened mk2 escort 4 link bars available from rally design etc.

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better location due to angles on arms to body. should be stronger arms than standard manta ones.

not as much side movement when going up and down as on standard manta panard rod set-up.

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