opelmantagsi Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) the original underseal was removed and the body media blasted, rust repairs complete and initial seam seal completed with a caulking gun 2k Epoxt primer was used prior to seal sealing seam sealing is a big job, and it takes a huge amount of time I recommend Wurth spray on seam sealer from start to finish, I believe Terostat is very good as well. Used foil to blank off areas i did not want seam sealer spray. 13 tubes of seam sealer used in the spray gun, will require a lot more to complete. I will over spray this with stone guard, 2K primer and 2k finish paint, (so this is a work in progress) There are other options, I chose to do this one as it was the easiest one for me in NZ. Everyone has an opinion on this subject, I am only posting this to share my experience after finding it very hard to find any decent information I hope this helps anyone thinking about undertaking a similar mini project and simply needing to see what can be done. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=geA8ZenlKbk Edited February 22, 2014 by opelmantagsi 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 Seems ashame to cover up all that beautiful smooth metalwork, protection is paramount though I guess , I've seen good protection with epoxy mastic sprayed on then topcoat with whatever, 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 It is a minefield on what to do on underbody coating, depends what the car is used for and what you want to achieve, yours will be a factory finish to another level! I've used 3m products in the past, schutz all sorts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opelmantagsi Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) I was going to put eurethane truck bed liner under the car but on reflection it's quite hard and we have a lot of stone chip sealed roads in nz, will be using the eurethane inside the car and parts of engine bay where a hard watertight finish is required. Edited February 22, 2014 by opelmantagsi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted February 22, 2014 Share Posted February 22, 2014 I think retro power use a similar thing for their builds, maybe not lizard skin or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opelmantagsi Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 (edited) Lizard Skin is an excellent product, they do a sound deadening and a thermal barrier spray. I would use the spray on sound deadening ahead of acoustic mats or dynamat. I have seen a few on here use Raptor bed liner, which is a good solution as well, however I have sourced a euretahne based SEM bed liner which is tintable and I intend to use this for the interior of the car and parts of the engine bay As I have no carpets and the interior will be painted white to match the exterior I was more worried about any paint wear through over time which could expose the colour of the bed liner below, so my spray on bed liner will be tinted white. I have a couple of things I need to complete inside the car before I get to the stage that I can apply this, but will post some pics when I get that done. For now here is a link to the SEM product I will use. http://www.semproducts.com/pro-tex-truckbed-liner-kits/ SEM also do a 2k tintable stone guard product which interesting as well. http://www.semproducts.com/pro-tex-2k-chip-guard-kit/ Edited February 22, 2014 by opelmantagsi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 (edited) Hi Derek, we use raptor which is tintable (they do black and tintable) we did the underside of the blue 4 door ascona with it that you can see in the projects section on here. It looks as good as paint once its laquered. We painted the underside of a subaru forest rally car with it which after 4 events (well 3 and a test) all on gravel stages, well over 200 miles of gravel flat out driving, with only the raptor inside the rear wheel arches etc, found 2 stone chips! That's how tough it is!!! The stones have worn right through the kevlar shielding in places on the car elsewhere, but where raptor alone is protecting the metal its fine!! There is nothing we have used that even comes close to how tough this stuff is. Edited February 23, 2014 by Retro Power 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Barrett Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 Raptor is what is was thinking of, it's what I'll be using once I get to that stage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted February 23, 2014 Share Posted February 23, 2014 is any of this for sale in the uk? just had a quick search for raptor and lizard skin but its all US or Oz... Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opelmantagsi Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Wurth and Raptor is, try searching Upol UK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opelmantagsi Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 (edited) Hi Derek, we use raptor which is tintable (they do black and tintable) we did the underside of the blue 4 door ascona with it that you can see in the projects section on here. It looks as good as paint once its laquered. We painted the underside of a subaru forest rally car with it which after 4 events (well 3 and a test) all on gravel stages, well over 200 miles of gravel flat out driving, with only the raptor inside the rear wheel arches etc, found 2 stone chips! That's how tough it is!!! The stones have worn right through the kevlar shielding in places on the car elsewhere, but where raptor alone is protecting the metal its fine!! There is nothing we have used that even comes close to how tough this stuff is. yeah I didn't go with the urethane on the underside, wanted something with a bit more acoustic value, going a bit more traditional on the underside with the urethane on the inside, the only concern I had really was having had a similar product on the deck of my hilux pick up was noise transmission from stones and gravel, but yeah it's really good stuff and hard as nails. It's also a good water barrier the tuck bed would fill with water if parked facing downhill, absolutely sealed like a water tank. I will use the urethane in the engine bay along the bulkhead which in my case is extensively modified now. At the moment we cant get tintable Raptor in NZ, the NZ distributors of Upol in NZ are ass holes so I had to bring the SEM product in from the states...story of my life http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_comparisons.htm I didnt like these words in the review of Raptor U-POL Raptor is a 2 component urethane bed liner with UV resistance. Raptor is made in the UK and has become a popular product over the past few years mainly for its nice packaging. The kit contains 4 bottles that screw up directly under the spray gun. Raptor is designed to spray and we had a hard time rolling it on anything larger than a small test panel. Fast evaporating solvents (MEK/Acetone) caused the roller to tack up when spreading over a large area. Our tests did reveal one significant issue with flexibility. U-POL Raptor flexibility is very poor. After curing only 5 days, the coating cracks very easily with just slight bending of the sample panel we rolled But I did wonder if that was all about how the product was applied by them. The research I did put me off of epoxy based bed liners and I went with urethane which Raptor is as well, that link above is pretty interesting I thought. But if the guys at retro power give it the tick of approval and have had no come backs, that's as good as it gets for me. I have just been into pick up another 12 tubes of seam sealer so will carry on where I left off, I think I will end up using a lot more, it's not a cheap exercise that's for sure, easy under estimated..... Lots of products out there, I am only sharing my experience with the materials I have chosen to use. Just on a side note I am finding that when reading some of the posts / advise from the guys at retropower make on various product application time and quantities are by far the most accurate.I cannot believe the amount of time, spent on seam sealing and the amount of epoxy primer I am going through. i am working away on my own in my shed with the odd assistance of a good mate and so far I have spent just under 3000 hours on the project and expect to finish at around 4000 hours, it's a marathon and then some. But then again I am not a mechanic, panel beater or car painter, I am just a dumb pipe fitter welder by trade who now drives a computer in an office to make ends meet and have some money left over to work on cars. Below is a further example of how you can use Wurth seam sealer and epoxy primer to get my results, I have used a number of seam sealers and the Wurth product is the only one that did not react with the 2K epoxy where the sealer was very thin at the edges (looked like paint stripper) there will be seam sealers that dont react with 2k, all I am saying is the Wurth product worked for me. The sequence I use Epoxy / seam sealer / Sand / Epoxy / seam sealer / Sand / Epoxy many many times until its right a very thin coat of Wurth super fine polyester filler here and there, most of which gets sanded off. The photos below are just after a coat of epoxy. Next stage will be more sanding and 2k filler prime and repeat until I am happy to put some 2k primer over that. A close friend and fellow Scotsman now living in NZ will be the man to do the final paint job, until then I have to do all the prep work to his requirements, he is the only man I would trust to finish paint this car. If your not impressed with what you see, just remember its a work in progress. some areas on this Manta I have also used lead filler as the initial fill and I have further areas I will be using Wurth 2k seam sealer, but more on that later (if anyone is interested) Edited February 24, 2014 by opelmantagsi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Wurth and Raptor is, try searching Upol UK Cheers i found it now. On e bay too http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-pol-Raptor-Tintable-Tough-Urethene-Coating-Truck-Bed-Liner-Kit-Trailers-/110785795320?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item19cb5914f8 Tony 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retro Power Posted February 24, 2014 Share Posted February 24, 2014 Cheers Derek, looking very good!! Totally agree on sound deadening, raptor doesn't do much to deaden sound, and I reckon it could be brittle if tested by bending a panel, it's extremely impact tough, but I'd guess less so in a panel bend test, but then that's hardly a realistic test! Re. The hours, your work is a show piece to us all, to be honest I think you are working largely at a standard superior to the best restorers out there, whatever the car involved!!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.