Chris M Posted November 16, 2014 Share Posted November 16, 2014 Hi My GTE will not idle when cold. Having had a mooch round on the internet I have discovered that the brown temp sensor is the Thermo time switch which tells the ECU to spray fuel into the plenum via the cold start injector at the back. I have tested this by removing the cold start injector, pointing it into a clear water bootle and then cranked the engine. Sure enough it sprayed a small quantity of fuel. This leaves me to suspect the blue temp sensor may be at fault. Once warmed up it drives a treat, pulls like a train and ticks over fine albeit a bit lumpy due to the Kent cam. Am I right to suspect the blue sensor or can there be anything else. If it proves to be too techy I am prepared to live with it as it soon warms up it would just be nice to have it tick over when cold and I have found genuine Bosch blue temp sensors for less than 20 quid on Flea bay. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 Grab plenum, pull away from engine, push towards engine. If RPM varies you have air leak. Check elsewhere for air leaks and AAV too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris M Posted November 17, 2014 Author Share Posted November 17, 2014 (edited) Would that effect it not ticking over when cold? Everything was rebuilt a year or so ago when the head was taken off and a new cam fitted . Thanks for the response though. Auxiliary air valve checked the other day. Very slightly open when cold and closed when warm Edited November 17, 2014 by Chris M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 Would that effect it not ticking over when cold? Everything was rebuilt a year or so ago when the head was taken off and a new cam fitted . Thanks for the response though. Auxiliary air valve checked the other day. Very slightly open when cold and closed when warm No worries dude. Sometimes the reason for "the test" takes longer to explain than to do so I don't explain. However, I don't have a vested interest in knowing the answer because my Manta runs fine with an engine I have had for 22 years. The inlet manifold is thinner than the exhaust manifold and held by the same bolts, they come loose all the time, especially when just refitted and the subsequent air leak causes them to idle lumpy and stall at idle speed. As can a lot of other things, but people always start messing with the injection before doing the basics, which means they then have more problems not less. For example people love to play with the AFM screw to try and solve idle problems and ruin their AFM when they should not have touched it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted November 18, 2014 Share Posted November 18, 2014 http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/36513-aux-air-valve-pics-failed.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris M Posted November 18, 2014 Author Share Posted November 18, 2014 That's great thanks. I will give that a go this weekend. It has a fully reconditioned AFM fitted barely a year ago and I will be leaving that well alone. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim nolan Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 I had the same problem a few weeks ago on an 85 GTE ..only by putting my hand on the plenum did I find out what was wrong .. bolt missing and 2 others loose on plenum to engine ... so it do,s sound like your drawing air somewhere .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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