Cone8v Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 My '83 manta has a 2.0e engine that has been fully rebuilt 12000km's ago. Shes been sitting for some time. My dad put 15w40 oil in it. When i start her up i look at the gauge and it stays on for a good 3 seconds atleast. I thought "thats fine". But when i try to start her up hot she still holds the engine light for a bit insted of shutting it down immediately. She doesnt make any weird noises but this is concerning to me. Any thoughts? Is 15w too much and should i go for 10w40? Is this normal behaviour? I can take videos of the light. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 what is the pressure when running ? idealy especially if its a rebuilt unit you should be looking at around 2 bar hot at idle and no more than 4.5 on high revs . i run all mine on 20w/50 but 15w/40 will be fine too . in theory yes if you use a thinner oil such as 10w/? it may well circulate quicker but may cause it to be lower at idle . i wouldnt go any less than 10w/40 ! i will compare those times to mine tonight but it should be ok ( unless you have a oil pump leak externally or a pick up pipe gasket leak causing a small air leak 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cone8v Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 I only have an oil pressure light on my dash, no scale. How do you suggest i check the pressure?. I have a scale on my other manta thought. Maybe i could switch the sensors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 no its not just the sensor difference . the dash is wired different as well . sorry i assumed all the later mantas had the oil guage as standard. you could try a new pressure switch of try a hand held pressure guage but its an awkward spot to get to ! . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cone8v Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 Ill try the handheld before buying a new switch. Burning myself a bit is worth it lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 you will need to tap the handheld into the existing switch hole anyway but there is also a blanking plug at the front above the oil pump. its an allen headed type but usually they cant be got out ! very tight and possibly sealed with a thread locking fluid ?. i checked mine for you . light goes out from cold start within 2 seconds and instantly from a hot start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cone8v Posted April 25 Author Share Posted April 25 Turns out she turns the light off immediately after i tap the gas to around 1300rpms, when automatic idle is working it revs her up and hold her at 1500rpm.I guess she was designed like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cone8v Posted May 22 Author Share Posted May 22 Update, the pressure light when engine hot will not go out unless i give it some gas and hold the gas a bit... If i dont give it enough gas while trying to roll in 1st and the revs drop under 900 the light will briefly turn on and then off. Should i check the oil relief valve first? Can i get to it without taking the pump cover off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 22 Share Posted May 22 (edited) 14 hours ago, Cone8v said: Update, the pressure light when engine hot will not go out unless i give it some gas and hold the gas a bit... If i dont give it enough gas while trying to roll in 1st and the revs drop under 900 the light will briefly turn on and then off. Should i check the oil relief valve first? Can i get to it without taking the pump cover off? Big nut. Sometimes they can jam open slightly due to wear or carbon. the later one is in the cover on oil pump. https://www.opelgtsource.com/search/2731/details https://www.edelschmiede.com/shop/Repair-tuning-kit-oil-pump-piston-steel-as-diesel-oil-pump-cap-Opel-cih Edited May 22 by Jessopia74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cone8v Posted May 22 Author Share Posted May 22 2 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: Big nut. Sometimes they can jam open slightly due to wear or carbon. i have this newer cover, i took it apart, checked the cogs and walls of the pump. Everything looks good and theres not alot of play. It had a paper gasket and im conflicted on this because ive read that this later cover does NOT come with a gasket, just a bit of sealer and youre done. So i cleaned everything up and just put sealer on. Tightened the cover. Tomorrow ill try to run the engine and check if the situation changes. Can you confirm that my engine does not need a gasket? Im 99% sure. Someone made this one ba hand and put it on possibly by mistake? Im gonna take the relief valve out tomorrow when the sealer dries out. After i try the engine like this though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cone8v Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 I keep reading about how the newer timing cover does not need a gasket and how an older cover needs a gasket but no one says how to identify which one is which. My oil cover has a relief valve but what if someone changed it thru the years? Another thing is everyone says not to use a silicone sealer(which i already did) and use an anaerobic sealer. Why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 (edited) 6 hours ago, Cone8v said: I keep reading about how the newer timing cover does not need a gasket and how an older cover needs a gasket but no one says how to identify which one is which. My oil cover has a relief valve but what if someone changed it thru the years? Another thing is everyone says not to use a silicone sealer(which i already did) and use an anaerobic sealer. Why? Two bolts from head into cover is new type. They all use a paper gasket though AFAIK. and I have always used a light smear of silicone too. Nearly everything you need to know and ask would be really easy to find on the site if you was a webmember though. It’s in Sections that are hidden from you currently Edited May 23 by Jessopia74 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cone8v Posted May 23 Author Share Posted May 23 Didnt know i would get access to that. Thank you. I checked and its the newer one. It has a gm logo on it tii. I installed the cover without gasket and just sealer. She builds oil pressure instantly on start now. I checked relief valve. Its perfect and metal. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted May 23 Share Posted May 23 21 minutes ago, Cone8v said: Didnt know i would get access to that. Thank you. I checked and its the newer one. It has a gm logo on it tii. I installed the cover without gasket and just sealer. She builds oil pressure instantly on start now. I checked relief valve. Its perfect and metal. Great to hear 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted May 24 Share Posted May 24 ah thats good. so it sounds like its had a newer timing casing fitted at sometime in its life and somebody has mistakenly fitted a cover gasket because the old one had one. if you missed the gasket on a casing that needed one the gears would be too tight and cause damage and you would have not been able to tighten the cover up without bending it. turning the pump via the distributor hole would confirm this . the haynes book does show the differences and measurements between the two types if you need to clarify.basically the gears stick out by a measured amount on the type that needs a gasket and they dont on the other type .( unless of course the gears or housing are badly worn !) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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