Nose-Cone Removal

[Jason b]

Hi,

had a good look around but can't find anything specific - was wondering if anyone had a step-by-step method for removing the nosecone? - i.e which bits are stuck to which bits.

I want to convert to bolting it on, as I am completing a mk1 cavalier straight 6 conversion that I've just picked up! - I'm supposing it's spot welded on, but wanted a bit of prior knowledge before

I put time aside for doing the job.

Cheers

Jason

[garymanc]

have a read through this thread http://forums.mantaclub.org/topic/18829-another-can-of-worms/

should tell you and a whole lot more beside

a bit more about refitting http://forums.mantaclub.org/topic/20351-cavalier-4-door/page__st__120

Edited February 9, 2010 by garymanc

[mantadoc]

2nd link is better as it takes it along the standard seams and 1st link is mostly concerned with patching up 2 nose cones into one and making the missing bits.

However, there is no need or good reason to remove the nose cone to do a 3 litre conversion

Search is your friend

Found this by searching in basic tech help

[Jason b]

I found the c30se thread in basic help and the other thread already (which are both useful, however I have most of the conversion done already), I was just after something a little more specific, like is it only a case of drilling spot welds - or are there seams which require cutting and rebuilding as the aforementioned threads only show nose-cones either off or on and don't really indicate the way it is attached. I realise I don't have to remove the nose-cone however it makes life much easier and would allow me to make a nicer job of the cooling system imho. Basically I didn't want to butcher a nice car and make a hash of anything where there may be a simple and elegant trick to doing it.

Thanks

Jason

[mantadoc]

If you don't want to butcher a nice car don't take the nose cone off. You will need to paint all the flanges and seams.

Condidering you generally have en engine lift to fit the 3.0 (one time I did one I didn't easy enough both ways) or a block and tackle you have to lift the engine anyway. No point adding the work of correctly fitting aligning and sealing the wings plus damage to paint on wing bolts etc etc etc.

If you have an engine lift and the problem is the length of the engine and box in the bay just put the rear wheels on ramps as the angle helps. If you are using a block and tackle you don't have the option as usually have to roll the car out but did the second one that way easy enough. Only thing to move to make it very easy is the radiator crossmember which is separate from the nose anyway.

However. if you really just want a bolt on / off nose because it's a good gimmick then drilling out the spot welds is the best way, preferably with a good spot weld cutter that allows the middle to go in.

Be aware that as the welds are applied by humans they are frequently on the edges of panels and not uniformy spaced so convenient regular bolt holes going through the flanges are unlikely.

The nose on the black car is standard steel and had a carlton rad slung under the nose and the stay to the middle of the nose was all that was removed.

[Jason b]

I meant nice in a structural way really, the paint needs doing but the shell is very solid for a mk1 cavalier. The engine and gearbox are all in and fitted fine, I just need to sort the cooling system out. If it is easy enough to bung any old rad under the nosecone then I'll just do it that way to save time - just figured that in the long run a removable nose-cone would be of use after seeing it on here.

In which case, apologies for making a pointless thread

[mantadoc]

Never apologise for your opinion, it's as valid / important as anyone else's.

I just argue the route of least resistance, probably too much sometimes

[d384 fhv]

Hi jason

I removed my nosecone as it was dented. It makes working on the engine alot easier, its bolted on with eight bolts which is strong enough. I made some aluminium pulleys for a single v belt so i didnt have to move the chassis crossmember. I live near romsey if you want to have a look

[Retro Power]

In answer to the question.... (probably answered elsewhere but I'm doing it here if not! )

To remove the entire nosecone, clean up the seam between the nosecone and inner wing each side, accessible with the outer wings removed. If cleaned gently with soft pad in grinder should show where the spot welds are. Drill em out with spot weld cutter.

Clean the "pad" at the front of each of the chassis rails where they join the crossmember near the radiator, and the towers each side of the radiator, its about 3" wide by 1.5" high. Again you'll see the spot welds, usually a fair few randomly dotted about! Again drill em out.

Drill the spot welds jointing the valance section to the lower radiator support "arm".

Nose will come off.

Its a couple of hours work to do it really neatly so none of the seams are damaged, and all stay flat so you can plug weld the replacement nose on, dress the plug welds back, and no-one would ever know its ever been off.

Edited February 24, 2010 by Retro Power

[Jason b]

Thanks guys, that makes it a little clearer.

It was mostly because the weather has been so rubbish that I ask.... I can't be bothered faffing in the rain hunting down spot welds!!

I have yet to decide whether to make it removable, or whether to just mount a rad underneath it in situ. No doubt the former will be better in the long run though.

Cheers

Jason

[Retro Power]

Quick PS, just actually looked at the manta in our workshop, and the 3" x 1.5" for the mount pads was wrong, my memory clearly playing tricks, its more like 6" x 1.5"!!