mantaboy89 Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 after a cam for my cavalier mk1 2000 as the cam got fed up of its lobe shape and decide it wanted to be circular instead lol. if anyones got a cheap cam please let me know. Thanks Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Just so you know, a Manta GTE can will be fine. I fitted on in my old Mk1 Cav for the same reason, they seem to be made of Cheese, the later ones are much better. Dont have one but may open your search a bit wider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 (edited) thanks dude, i got a manta gte and was going to pinch the cam as the engine is gettin scrapped fro a 24v so might pinch it out of that. do you know if it is much of a job to do? Thanks Also does anyone know if the 2.0ltr cam is the same as the 1.6 and 1.9 Edited October 22, 2010 by mantaboy89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 (edited) Take the Rad out, unbolt the engine mount on the N/S (or both) and jack the engine up to give enough space to clear the front panel. Time it up remove the cam cover and rockers etc, carefully remove the timing chain and side tensioner, slide out of the hole. Did the last one in an hour but depends on the facilities and experience.. DO NOT DROP THE TIMING CHAIN (or anything else) DOWN THE HOLE!!! Use a tywrap or wire to hold it to the head... Edited October 22, 2010 by Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 (edited) Take the Rad out, unbolt the engine mount on the N/S (or both) and jack the engine up to give enough space to clear the front panel. Time it up remove the cam cover and rockers etc, carefully remove the timing chain and side tensioner, slide out of the hole. Did the last one in an hour but depends on the facilities and experience... DO NOT DROP THE TIMING CHAIN (or anything else) DOWN THE HOLE!!! Use a tywrap or wire to hold it to the head... As for being the same as 1600, 1900 I dont know but (I think) only the bore size is different and suck squeeze bang blow is the same for all, so should be ok, maybe slightly different lift and timing. Edited October 22, 2010 by Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 the cams for a 1.6 are different.( opening /closing times but also its a 3 bearing cam so although would physically fit there would be a large oil pressure drop due to oil being fed to open space rather than onto bearing!)the only official way to change cam is to remove head. ive heard it can be done by removing timing case but it fits up against cylinder head gasket & has a rubber insert.would it be difficult to get a good seal afterwards maybee.also it lips into sump so that would need dropping also. plus if sliding cam out of head does it not foul on cylinder head bolts ?? wouldnt like to be undoing any head bolts on anything but a very recent head gasket. say up to couple of thousand miles max.im not dismissing anyones ways on doing this just saying that i wouldnt do it that way personally .NO OFFENCE INTENDED. on the plus side a gte cam has exactly the same opening/closing times as a standard carb cam except its a couple of degrees advanced.this would compensate for any chain stretch & possibly bring the timing back more accurate than fitting the correct cam. i have a standard carb cam & a gte one if you need one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 the cams for a 1.6 are different.( opening /closing times but also its a 3 bearing cam so although would physically fit there would be a large oil pressure drop due to oil being fed to open space rather than onto bearing!) plus if sliding cam out of head does it not foul on cylinder head bolts ?? wouldnt like to be undoing any head bolts on anything but a very recent head gasket. NO OFFENCE INTENDED Didnt know about the 1600 cam being different, learnt something today I am 99.9% sure I didnt remove any head bolts, not my thing to do that sort of thing, but it was about 3 years ago so may be forgetting things... No offence taken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 (edited) ive pulled the cam out of my manta and thankfully it is in great condiytion, the only querry i have is that i had to remove the head, i cant see a way to remove the cam gear without pulling the head up? can someone help? also if i do remove the head ive got a gasket here but states it is for a 1900, does anyone know if this will fit the 2.o ltr? Thanks Josh Edited October 23, 2010 by mantaboy89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 if its a correct gte cam it will be stamped on the end with a letter R. as in one of the previous replies they have managed to change the cam by removing the timing casing from the front.then by unbolting the front sprocket & the small support plate lowering it out downwards. its not the way i would do it but thats only my personal opinion. the proper way is by removing the head. a 1900 gasket is 93mm whereas a 2 litre is 95mm so no good realy. it would not sit over the bore properly. worth laying it on the block thou you never know ,it may have been made not too accurately & may fit but i doubt it. cheers mate. ps.if youre gonna take the head off you might as well at least change the valve stem seals whille its off &clean up/re paste the valves in. the stem oil seals can be chenged with head on but its a lot easier with it off & well worth doing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted October 23, 2010 Author Share Posted October 23, 2010 kinda in a rush to get it back on the road otherwise i would, placed the gasket on the block and looks fine, same size as the one removed so fingers crossed it will do the job, could do with changing stem seals but like i said im in a rush to get it back on the road. got the most of it done today and fingers crossed i will have her running tomorrow. thanks to eveyone for all your help. again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 just be 100% sure that the metal parts of the gasket around each piston bore definately lay on the block & not hang over in any way. same goes for the underside of the head. i wouldnt have expected a 93mm bore gasket to fit a 95mm bore but if it does then all is ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 changed the cam tappets and rockers over and started her up, runs with good oil pressure but tapping loudly. anyone got any ideas, how can i check i am gettin oil pressure to the head? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 If you have Hydraulic lifters you need to pre load them with the engine running, messy job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 without sounding stupid, how do i pre-load them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mick Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 From memory this so may need checking but with it running and the rocker cover off (make a tin or plastic chain guard to stop the oil spray) loosen each 16mm rocker nut off in turn until it clatters, then slowly tighten until it goes quiet. Next thing is to turn each one through 1/4 turn 4 times slowly, you will notice the engine slows down each time, once its been a full turn its right. Thats the bit im not 100 sure of but think its right. Do all 8 valves and then refit the rocker cover should be ok. All this is assuming you have oil there in the first place. To check, rocker cover off and coil lead, crank and see if any oil comes out from the camshaft and lifters... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantaboy89 Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 well, i finally go the car sorted after talking the head off twice after finding out i needed to get the cam machined, managed to get her running sweet and get to a rock gig in birmingham hours after finishing her, done 450 miles since with no hickups so fingers crossed she will behave untill she is parked up over winter, thanks again to everyone who helped me out with info and parts, hoping to get a little sj to do me over winter and park the cav up to give her a break. Josh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 good.glad you got it sorted. totally forgot about the `later cam in an early head`issue hope it didnt inconvenience you too much.sorry about that. what gig was it you went to? just been over to whitby for the goth weekend.absolutely fantastic but obviously not to everyones taste! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghcoe Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 Thought I would add some information here. You cannot mix used lifters with used cams. You can not even use the same lifters with the same cam on different lobes. Lifters and cams lobes wear together. Mixing them will cause the cam to wear out faster. Now then on removal of the cam with the head on is easy. All you have to do is find a timing chain that has a master key. Yes they are available. Opel GT Source sometimes has them. I just picked up one on ebay for $30.00 with shipping. What you need to do is carefully grind down the pins on one link on the old chain and remove the link. Then connect the old chain with the new chain using the master link. Carefully turn the motor and feed the new chain through the timing case and once the new chain comes back out remove the old chain. Now you can remove the cam sprocket when you want by removing the master link. Just be careful not to drop the chain down into the timing cover when you do this. You can use the 3 bearing cam in a 4 bearing head if you have the cam bearing installed so that the oiling port is not lined up with the oil galley. George. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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