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Was 'fuel Pump Priming', Now 'won't Work, Why?'


rallycinq
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Good day, and a happy new year chaps and chapesses,

I am putting injection into my Centaur.

Everything wired up and ready to try, but when switching on the ignition the fuel pump runs (as it should), but it just keeps running. I am used to systems where the pump will run untill the system is primed, then shut down.

Is this correct for the manta GTE system, or is there a problem?

If there is a problem, any guesses?

Cheers

D

Edited by rallycinq
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Depends how you wired it. If an ignition live through a fuse then yes it runs forever as the excess fuel is returned to the tank.

Have you taken injection relay out, thumped it and replaced, or tried by substitution?

If you took the wire from the injection multiplug via a fuse to it then the pulse of turning the ignition on causes the ignition amp to flick the rev counter AND blip the injection relay so runs for about three seconds then stops if you didn't start the engine.

If you do the same test with the injection relay pulled and it does still run it is wired incorrectly or wiring loom fault / damage in injection loom.

Alternatively ignition module incorrect wiring........... with and without injection relay what is the behavior if you bypass the rev counter green wire (male female connector) With this out injection should not work or run pump even though you have spark

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Depends how you wired it. If an ignition live through a fuse then yes it runs forever as the excess fuel is returned to the tank.

Have you taken injection relay out, thumped it and replaced, or tried by substitution?

If you took the wire from the injection multiplug via a fuse to it then the pulse of turning the ignition on causes the ignition amp to flick the rev counter AND blip the injection relay so runs for about three seconds then stops if you didn't start the engine.

If you do the same test with the injection relay pulled and it does still run it is wired incorrectly or wiring loom fault / damage in injection loom.

Alternatively ignition module incorrect wiring........... with and without injection relay what is the behavior if you bypass the rev counter green wire (male female connector) With this out injection should not work or run pump even though you have spark

Thanks for that info. We are back at the shed tomorrow so will give this info to my electrical expert to run through. Fuel is definately being returned to tank, we can hear it piddling in.

Cheers

D

Edited by rallycinq
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If your car has the factory car loom you will need to make a few changes as it wont have a wire in the loom for an electric fuel pump also it will be wired with a 6v clear resistor wire for higher current start on the old engine. You need to strip the loom back and replace this wire with normal cable. The blue wire in the ECU loom plug is the o/p to the fuel pump relay. Makes a good job if you can get the matching plug of a GTE loom and mate them up at the bulkhead. Or change the engine loom plug with a waterproof male and female one so everything plugs out.

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If your car has the factory car loom you will need to make a few changes as it wont have a wire in the loom for an electric fuel pump also it will be wired with a 6v clear resistor wire for higher current start on the old engine. You need to strip the loom back and replace this wire with normal cable. The blue wire in the ECU loom plug is the o/p to the fuel pump relay. Makes a good job if you can get the matching plug of a GTE loom and mate them up at the bulkhead. Or change the engine loom plug with a waterproof male and female one so everything plugs out.

Thanks for that, we were already there. We have not used the manufacturers plug, we(when I say 'we' I mean my tame electrical genius)had stripped the loom, removed the unwanted cables, fitted new cables and rebound the loom, including all the alternator and oil pressure wiring (I am using the Frontera sender in its oil pump position)

After much head scratching and proving, it turns out the problem is the pressure regulator. It is jammed open sending all the fuel back to the tank, not producinmg enough of a 'head'behind the injectors. blocking the return, asnd suddenly we have life. Its not good running at full pressure so its only been started for a second at a time, but we have the answer.

Will be checking my spares pile for other regulators tonight, but will probably end up with an inline, adjustable one for the final version.

Cheers

D

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After much head scratching and proving, it turns out the problem is the pressure regulator. It is jammed open sending all the fuel back to the tank, not producinmg enough of a 'head'behind the injectors. blocking the return, asnd suddenly we have life. Its not good running at full pressure so its only been started for a second at a time, but we have the answer.

Was the fuel regulatorplumbed in backwards at some point?

That also doesn't answer your original query about the pump running all the time.

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Was the fuel regulatorplumbed in backwards at some point?

That also doesn't answer your original query about the pump running all the time.

I don't know the history of the regulator before I bought it a hundred years ago. The pump has been wired to run all the time, the tests with the relay out etc all proved correct.

I have found another standard regulator in my parts pile, I cannot blow through this one, so will check the one on the car tomorrow and see what happens.

Thanks for all the advice.

Cheers

David

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Feck, the plot thickens.

Fitted another regulator, fuel pissing out of every orifice, so switch the pump off and rigged up a pressure gauge.

Regulator 1, the NOS, 40PSi which is stock.

Regulator 2, off the scale, hence why fuel is leaking.

So why does the 40PSi one not provide enough fuel at the injectors?

Or,

Is the off the scale one providing so much pressure its forcing its way past the injectors and giving us false info?

Cheers

David

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Glad you finally have it sorted.

The pump has been wired to run all the time, the tests with the relay out etc all proved correct.

Only observation, if you ever have a catstrophe, end up on your roof in a ditch etc, the pump will continue to pump out fuel. For the extra effort required to wire from the Jetronic multi plug and fuse it it is probably worth it.

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Glad you finally have it sorted.

Only observation, if you ever have a catstrophe, end up on your roof in a ditch etc, the pump will continue to pump out fuel. For the extra effort required to wire from the Jetronic multi plug and fuse it it is probably worth it.

Have now rewired it correctly, however.....as usual....another wee hitch appears.

The relay had an intermittant fault that became less intermittant, so I ordered the intermotor one as detailed in the parts finder section.

It doesn't now pump, so further work required.

Cheers

D

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Have now rewired it correctly, however.....as usual....another wee hitch appears.

The relay had an intermittant fault that became less intermittant, so I ordered the intermotor one as detailed in the parts finder section.

It doesn't now pump, so further work required.

Cheers

D

Slide the cover off the relay and close it to give you a temp fix, at least you know why it's that way. You might even find a joint that wants sweating.

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might be worth checking if the fuse is a good one as well

I wonder about this car sometimes.

Refitted new relay today having charged battery overnight and, after a few turns away she went. Sweet as a nut.

Thanks for all your help.

I have a cooling issue which I'll search for, if nothing found, expect another thread soon.

Cheers

D

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