What Have You Used

[steel]

cleaned back my red coupe inner wings to bare metal ,,what do you guys prime your bare steel with followed by some sort of protective coating been told to stay away from schutz my m8 normally uses hammerite and repaints once a year on his mk1 golf also what dou guys paint your axles and associated suspension arms ect with

[eldoradoCoupe]

http://www.rust.co.uk/

I've just finished doing the underside and engine bay of my hatch with epoxymastic 121 from the company above.

Awsome stuff, it goes as hard as a rock and didn't react at all with any traces of remnaining paint / underseal or the new 2k paint I put over the top of it. The website has a really good guide to rust fighting also.

I followed it as best I could and did a fairly thorough prep which seemed to work out well.

I soaked the underside with degreaser and powerhosed several times, then wire brushed / shot blasted, any krusty bits, then used an acid based metal cleaner followed by another good power hose.

After this lot I used a drop of their phosclean B to prep the bare metal.

Also their FE123 is good gear for any seams - it soaks right through and converts any rust you can't get the grinder to.

After that lot I've used a coat of stonechip on the underside followed by a coat of black waxoyl and when thats dry I intend to cover it with shutz.

You mentioned you'd been told not to use shutz - my opinion on that is that shutz is an extremely effective barrier to road salts and crap and is very good if used for that purpose. Where it shouldn't be used is to paint over existing rusty bits which haven't been perpared properly cause the rust festers away below it. Most bodgers use it for this which is probably why it gets a bad name.

As for suspension, mostly I get it blasted then give it several coats of smoothrite. I'd use the same stuff as above if I could afford it but it is dear.

I think the key thing in all of this is preparation though - no use painting over oily grimy surface or caked on rust. A ball pein hammer is another great job for making sure the rust is properly removed.

Of course this might all be rubbish and my car could be rotten by next year - but I hope not !!

[Titson]

http://www.rust.co.uk/

I've just finished doing the underside and engine bay of my hatch with epoxymastic 121 from the company above.

Awsome stuff, it goes as hard as a rock and didn't react at all with any traces of remnaining paint / underseal or the new 2k paint I put over the top of it. The website has a really good guide to rust fighting also.

I followed it as best I could and did a fairly thorough prep which seemed to work out well.

I soaked the underside with degreaser and powerhosed several times, then wire brushed / shot blasted, any krusty bits, then used an acid based metal cleaner followed by another good power hose.

After this lot I used a drop of their phosclean B to prep the bare metal.

Also their FE123 is good gear for any seams - it soaks right through and converts any rust you can't get the grinder to.

After that lot I've used a coat of stonechip on the underside followed by a coat of black waxoyl and when thats dry I intend to cover it with shutz.

You mentioned you'd been told not to use shutz - my opinion on that is that shutz is an extremely effective barrier to road salts and crap and is very good if used for that purpose. Where it shouldn't be used is to paint over existing rusty bits which haven't been perpared properly cause the rust festers away below it. Most bodgers use it for this which is probably why it gets a bad name.

As for suspension, mostly I get it blasted then give it several coats of smoothrite. I'd use the same stuff as above if I could afford it but it is dear.

I think the key thing in all of this is preparation though - no use painting over oily grimy surface or caked on rust. A ball pein hammer is another great job for making sure the rust is properly removed.

Of course this might all be rubbish and my car could be rotten by next year - but I hope not !!

Sand blast clean and use Chassis Black, like treacle when cold but covers really well on chassis components