ray70 Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hi, Soon i'll be painting my 73 Manta sr and would like to know what is the ideal psi to set the compresser at, i'll be using cellulose paint and i'll be painting outside on my front drive possably under a gazebo (Not the best idea I Know but it'all my buget can alow) and was thinking about 30-40 psi would that be ok or am I way off the mark? Any tips would be sound. Ray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hi Ray. I wouldn´t do it.. Your result will not be very good when painting in the open.. The secret behind a good paintjob is the preperation and the surroundings not so much you technique ! If i were you i´d wait and save some money untill you at least can rent or let a garage to paint in for a week or so. That will also give you time to practise on ea, a hood or something. Also removing all parts that can be removed and painting them by themselfes will help you alot with the finish. Front wings, hood, trunk etc. But i would definatly wait. You will be very unpleased with the results if you paint it outside, there will be bugs and mosqitos caught in the wet paint, the temperature will change during the day and the paint will have same surface as an orange.. It really isn´t worth it... I will be paining my Manta myself as well, and have seen a ton of video´s on youtube (you can also see the correct adjustments of the spraygun here and learn some techniques) and i have a very small workshop. What is most important is a steady temperature (kind of warm) and alot of ventilation so that the dust won´t fall down on the car again. Hope you sort it out and get a nice result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnboy Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Hi there, same as above, don,t do it outside if at all possible, i sprayed my '76 spitfire outside with two pack paint and although it looked really good for a day or two once it had dried out and hardened properly there where all sorts of 'bits' in the paint, dust,flies,more dust, suprising how much crap floats about even on a calm summers day, you put so much preperation into the job and then spoil it with a poor paint job and believe me no matter how much you faff with it after it is never right. As far as psi on the spray gun goes, depends if your using a gravity fed or suction type gun and the consistency of the paint once you've mixed it, try it on a few test pieces first until your happy with the coverage, start with a low pressure and up it till it looks right, theres no set pressure for spraying, case of try it and see really, (thats the advice i was given by a mate in the trade years ago) some one else will probably have a better idea tho, hope you sort it ok, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikemanta Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 best thing to do is go and find a bodyshop which is not too busy get the car all ready so all they have to do is put the paint on and they will only charge you a few hours labour and you get the benefit of a professonal finish at a good price. If you do want to paint it yourself ask for a data sheet when you buy the paint this will give you all the info you need psi, flash off times mixing ratio etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodas Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) Hi, Soon i'll be painting my 73 Manta sr and would like to know what is the ideal psi to set the compresser at, i'll be using cellulose paint and i'll be painting outside on my front drive possably under a gazebo (Not the best idea I Know but it'all my buget can alow) and was thinking about 30-40 psi would that be ok or am I way off the mark? Any tips would be sound. Ray. Hi, As the other guys have said, out side is not the best but if that all that is avalible then needs must. I would suggest a gazebo / plastic marques from argos that have zipped sides. (Have seen one used locally, reasonable finish also keeps it warm) seals the car in. He used a bouncy castle blower in reverse for removing the fumes Your gun type will determin what your compressor can cope with, set it to Max 100 120psi, (larger tank the better 100L plus) and allow your gun to lower the pressure, or use a mini gauge on the inlet to set it to as you say 30/40psi, test for fan spread, also check your viscosity, try a 1.8mm tip. Celly is quiet forgiving when dry ideal for colour polishing, go light on your first three coat's leave 20 mins flash off and tack, and apply two or three heavy coats leaving 30min flash off tack and if you wish apply two coats 1pk laquer again first light second heavy. Main thing have a good mask handy and don't rush. Hope this helps good look :thumbup:thumbup:thumbup Edited June 27, 2011 by discodas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monzta Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 Also whether you do it in a garage or outside make sure the floor is wet. This will keep dust from blowing up on the car when painting the lower parts of the car, and it will also function as a "filter" and catch paint dust. But i really can´t underline this enough. If you have any posibility at all to lent a garage you really should..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discodas Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) Good point wet floor is a easy option to keep dust at bay , Just a thought, have you tried contacting your local college motor refinishing school, some times they hire out their booths on a discounted basis, or even ask they to paint as a project for their students????? Edited June 27, 2011 by discodas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rab Posted June 27, 2011 Share Posted June 27, 2011 (edited) Painted inside. Paint consistency I was told to be like Skimmed milk!! so what I use is an old large nescafe jar and fill with paint 2" up from bottom and top up with thinners 3/4`s from top. Paint is also put through filters which can be got when buying your paint, before going into paint cup on gun. I check paint consistency with a small stick,if it runs off stick in slow blobs to thick and if runs of in a constant fast stream you will not be far away,from milk consistency. If possible also get a water trap for in line as there is nothing worse than getting water droplets spurting out of gun onto your paint. The main things I found out, plenty heat/good dry day,very clean area free from dust or anything airborne alive or dead,I find also if panels are warm the paint goes on a treat and I always try and do it wet on wet and build coats up slowly which for me was hard to get the nack of as when you start seeing that deep gloss finish appearing I tended to think just awe tad more and it will be even better and that's when you lay on to much paint and see the dreaded run starting Painting outside under no cover with a spray gun /Celli it wouldn't belong before all your neighbours would be chapping at your door its amazing just how far the spray travels when air born. My next door neighbour could always tell when I was painting and that was with a poly tent placed up and round inside of my garage and best to my efforts taped up,even mi dug `collie` at the time got a white line door her back as she used to lay outside mi side door waiting on me coming oot,got hell aff thi missus Read up as much as you can and try on some test panels first, I used an old front bonnet fae Manta hung up at slight angle as found doing flat you had to watch air line from landing on bonnet. Plenty practise hope yae git sorted oot. cheers rab. Edited June 27, 2011 by Rab Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamchop77 Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 (edited) Hi, Soon i'll be painting my 73 Manta sr and would like to know what is the ideal psi to set the compresser at, i'll be using cellulose paint and i'll be painting outside on my front drive possably under a gazebo (Not the best idea I Know but it'all my buget can alow) and was thinking about 30-40 psi would that be ok or am I way off the mark? Any tips would be sound. Ray. As everyone else has said don't paint outside, it really will annoy everyone around you and the finish will not be good. If you still want to do it i would maybe try something else. The little Earlex HVLP units are ok used with cellulose, you just need to thin the paint more. Using a proper set up you will get a really good finish but with patience and alot of flatting you can get a pretty good finish. Aguy near me uses one and gets good finishes with it. Good thing is you don't get the same atomisation as you do with a normal compresser setup so more paint goes where you point it. It does give a bit of an orange peel effect if the paint is thick but if you flat down after a couple of coats it should come out ok. Tip i was given by a sprayer as well. Mix is usually 50/50 for celly, he said start with a 70/30 paint to thinners mix for the first couple of coats then flat back. Switch to 50/50 for the next couple and flat back. Finish with a 30/70 and maybe push to a 20/80 mix for the final coat. The final coats are so thin it seems to smooth the paint so only a small amount (if any) flatting is needed. Celly paint eats into the previous layer rather than laying over it so doing it this way gives a deeper finish to the paint. Saw a car that the guy had done in blue celly and it looked like you could dive into it!!!! If you are going to flat the paint after the final coat leave it at least a week,the paint will still be soft. HTH Chris Edited June 29, 2011 by lamchop77 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Copper3T Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 (edited) Hi there ! I agree with Chris. I have found that the easiest way to spray cellulose is to prep well and use a good base primer ( the yellow two pack high build is best ), rubbed down to a silky finish then apply a 'mist' coat mostly thinners ( 1/4 paint to 3/4 thinners ) with just enough paint to see the colour, which gives the following coats a key. Wait for approx. 15 mins until the solvent has evaporated then apply a full coat ( I use half paint, half thinners ) Wait for 20 mins to half an hour until ' tack off ' then follow up with more coats at half hour intervals.( you will not spoil it by waiting longer ) to get a really fine finish, ' QUICKLY flash over the final coat with raw thinners as many times as you like, taking care not to make it too wet! as it could run or sag. This levels out the paint giving a finer finish. Most pro.spray shops used to spray cellulose at at 50 to 65lbs pressure with the compressor at 160. Paint with an even stroke and don't overlap at ends keeping the gun at about 10 to 12 inches from the panel with a wide fan. I recommend wasting a drop of paint on an old panel first to get the pressure, distance, volume and timing correct. At least you won't have given yourself a headache. If you MUST paint outside, wait for a calm, warm day give yourself plenty of room to work. Don't forget to 'blow over' the job to get rid of any dust before painting. I have had some great success, even full spray jobs, by planning well ahead and choosing the right day. Prep. the car well and mask up the day before if possible, don't rush it. If there is a little orange peel, it can be taken out with patience and 1000 grade paper, then compound. My family owned a large coachworks in Newcastle and were the first in the north to spray cellulose. My uncle having served his apprenticeship at Morris Motors, Cowley. I have worked in several paint shops starting with hand coachpainting in 1955. Don't despair if you get a few problems, they can usually be rectified. All the Best, Copper3T. ( Sid.) P.S. USE A GOOD FACE MASK ! Edited June 29, 2011 by Copper3T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray70 Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) As everyone else has said don't paint outside, it really will annoy everyone around you and the finish will not be good. If you still want to do it i would maybe try something else. The little Earlex HVLP units are ok used with cellulose, you just need to thin the paint more. Using a proper set up you will get a really good finish but with patience and alot of flatting you can get a pretty good finish. Aguy near me uses one and gets good finishes with it. Good thing is you don't get the same atomisation as you do with a normal compresser setup so more paint goes where you point it. It does give a bit of an orange peel effect if the paint is thick but if you flat down after a couple of coats it should come out ok. Tip i was given by a sprayer as well. Mix is usually 50/50 for celly, he said start with a 70/30 paint to thinners mix for the first couple of coats then flat back. Switch to 50/50 for the next couple and flat back. Finish with a 30/70 and maybe push to a 20/80 mix for the final coat. The final coats are so thin it seems to smooth the paint so only a small amount (if any) flatting is needed. Celly paint eats into the previous layer rather than laying over it so doing it this way gives a deeper finish to the paint. Saw a car that the guy had done in blue celly and it looked like you could dive into it!!!! If you are going to flat the paint after the final coat leave it at least a week,the paint will still be soft. HTH Chris Thanks Chris. Hi there ! I agree with Chris. I have found that the easiest way to spray cellulose is to prep well and use a good base primer ( the yellow two pack high build is best ), rubbed down to a silky finish then apply a 'mist' coat mostly thinners ( 1/4 paint to 3/4 thinners ) with just enough paint to see the colour, which gives the following coats a key. Wait for approx. 15 mins until the solvent has evaporated then apply a full coat ( I use half paint, half thinners ) Wait for 20 mins to half an hour until ' tack off ' then follow up with more coats at half hour intervals.( you will not spoil it by waiting longer ) to get a really fine finish, ' QUICKLY flash over the final coat with raw thinners as many times as you like, taking care not to make it too wet! as it could run or sag. This levels out the paint giving a finer finish. Most pro.spray shops used to spray cellulose at at 50 to 65lbs pressure with the compressor at 160. Paint with an even stroke and don't overlap at ends keeping the gun at about 10 to 12 inches from the panel with a wide fan. I recommend wasting a drop of paint on an old panel first to get the pressure, distance, volume and timing correct. At least you won't have given yourself a headache. If you MUST paint outside, wait for a calm, warm day give yourself plenty of room to work. Don't forget to 'blow over' the job to get rid of any dust before painting. I have had some great success, even full spray jobs, by planning well ahead and choosing the right day. Prep. the car well and mask up the day before if possible, don't rush it. If there is a little orange peel, it can be taken out with patience and 1000 grade paper, then compound. My family owned a large coachworks in Newcastle and were the first in the north to spray cellulose. My uncle having served his apprenticeship at Morris Motors, Cowley. I have worked in several paint shops starting with hand coachpainting in 1955. Don't despair if you get a few problems, they can usually be rectified. All the Best, Copper3T. ( Sid.) P.S. USE A GOOD FACE MASK ! Thanks Sid. Edited June 30, 2011 by ray70 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray70 Posted June 30, 2011 Author Share Posted June 30, 2011 Thanks to everybody for all the info, but I realy dont have any other option than to paint it outside so if you have anymore good tips for doing it like this please spill the beans. I will be using a gazebo with 2 sides on it the open sides will have a 7ft hedge and the other will be facing the house so should still be shelted from any wind and stil have good ventilation. I like the sound of flashing over with just the thinners for a better finish, has anybody eles done this and does it work good? please keep the info coming very interesting. Thanks Ray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyc Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 The enviromental agency may also have something to say about the air pollution which could land in with a big fine Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 Hi Ray, take a look at this thread on Retro Rides, hope it helps: How I painted my car (Thread) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Copper3T Posted June 30, 2011 Share Posted June 30, 2011 (edited) Spot on Leon ! Edited June 30, 2011 by Copper3T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray70 Posted July 1, 2011 Author Share Posted July 1, 2011 Hi Ray, take a look at this thread on Retro Rides, hope it helps: How I painted my car (Thread) Thanks Leon, Nice job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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