Running Gear Modifications!

[SHarper]

Hello all, 

I think i talk to most on here than i do my own family 🤣 

But that’s not what i’m here for haha!

Where do i start?!

I’ve just finished swapping out the 1.6 Engine and Ancillaries for a 20E Engine / Running Gear Etc. In my Mk1 Cavalier Saloon, There’s a Little Catch, I’ve Ditched Injection, never fussed me as i eventually want to Run some Side-draughts, it’s currently sat on a Re-Built 32/36…

Everything runs really well! I’m yet to drop it onto a Rolling Road to get a Base Figure and try and make a smidge of an increase if possible, the Timing is Advanced and all is set up and wow it shifts compared to the 1.6, i’d say more in the Torque Department.

 

But this isn’t enough for me 🤭 C20 Never bothered me, i know they’re amazing but they’re everywhere, i like to stick with originality and that is the 20E. The Forum (i have looked) is a-bit mismatched with info regarding what can be done to these engines, i know they don’t push too much HP but the Torque Curve greatly outweighs the HP as it goes up, i understand about losing Drive-ability, but come on who doesn’t love a Brown Pant moment on a Roundabout or Junction haha!
 

The Car is Currently Lowered (Probably Too Much as i didn’t do it), Sits on the Original 13” Rostyles but i have some 13” 8 Inch Wide Weller Steels to go on (Arch Filled Perfectly).
 

My goal with this car which might help with some advice is a Road/Track Car, i do the occasional Track Day and took some interest into Sprinting / AutoCross is it?

Next Year the Car is coming off the road for some BodyWork/Painting and around the same time i intend to push for a 2.1 Re-Bore (Pricey).

But my question is what can i get for my money at the moment? My Budget is Weak at the moment but can stretch, i’ve seen you guys and girls mention Kent Cams? The 214 Cam i think, what’s required? Different Springs etc.? How much is a USED set of Twin 40’s / 45’s (45’s are better for flow) / Lightened Flywheel (I am using the 1.6 Flywheel which has no apparent difference) / Head Skimming + Porting. 

Exhaust Wise my Mid Box isn’t exactly doing much other than keeping a Baffle in it and the Original Back Box has gone for a Free Cherry Bomb (80’s Boy Racer), i understand Opel got the Manifold Bang on so a 4-2-1 Isn’t so much my thing if it’s not needed. 

Basically to wrap this up, Vent to me on what’s what, what is needed, Any Spares going once going twice three times sold? If it helps i still have the 1600, i intend to sell it but i’ve heard the Bottom End is a Good Mod as well as the Solid Lifters. 
 

I forgot to mention which i’ve added in now through the Editing Bit, i’m keen on doing brakes too? My problem is Solid Discs, they Fade / Heat too quickly when pushing hard (Trackday). Some Options for a different Brake Set-up both front and rear? I don’t fancy the hassle of Re-Drilling Sierra Parts, just a simple drop on-off…
 

Many Thanks,

Picture for Attention,

Sam!

Edited August 14, 2023 by SHarper

[611]

You are going to get so many different option's i feel for this one!

For me i feel the main problem on the old CIH engine is air flow with the exhaust and inlet being on the same side.

I ran twin 45's with a big valve head on the 2.0L and it was a pretty good setup. i never managed to get a complete setup over the whole rev range with the Kent cam, fast road cam (not sure on the number) Im currently running a cam from these guys https://enem.se/ib.asp and it seems better than the kent but its expensive and im on throttle bodies. Lots of good reading and opinions on here for the CIH https://www.opelgt.com/

For brakes im running sierra 4x4 rear calipers on BMW solid discs on the back. Nice easy setup with a bracket made up and uses the standard handbrake cable and i went for a nice set of wilwood 4 pots on the front 🙂 but you do need a custom bracket made but just used re drilled Volvo vented discs. You might need to see what will fit under those wheels as options might be limited. (pics on my blog www.theopelproject.com) Its going to be an interesting thread i feel with lots of different views 🙂

Car looks nice sat like that 🙂

[SHarper]

1 hour ago, 611 said:

You are going to get so many different option's i feel for this one!

For me i feel the main problem on the old CIH engine is air flow with the exhaust and inlet being on the same side.

I ran twin 45's with a big valve head on the 2.0L and it was a pretty good setup. i never managed to get a complete setup over the whole rev range with the Kent cam, fast road cam (not sure on the number) Im currently running a cam from these guys https://enem.se/ib.asp and it seems better than the kent but its expensive and im on throttle bodies. Lots of good reading and opinions on here for the CIH https://www.opelgt.com/

For brakes im running sierra 4x4 rear calipers on BMW solid discs on the back. Nice easy setup with a bracket made up and uses the standard handbrake cable and i went for a nice set of wilwood 4 pots on the front 🙂 but you do need a custom bracket made but just used re drilled Volvo vented discs. You might need to see what will fit under those wheels as options might be limited. (pics on my blog www.theopelproject.com) Its going to be an interesting thread i feel with lots of different views 🙂

Car looks nice sat like that 🙂

I’ve thought that myself regarding the Manifold, wether there’d be some heat soak, same goes for the Shockingly placed Oil Pressure Sender (I’ve tried the Re-Route to the Gallery at the front but can’t risk Stripping the Threads).

I’ve thought about make some sort of Ducting through the front Air Dam to try and introduce a-bit more cold air, i don’t like the bonnet clearance between the top of the 32/36 Filter and the Bonnet as i presume that does no good for Heat Soak…

I appreciate some good opinions as i can weigh up what’s best. With regards to your old Twin 45’s where you running a Short Manifold? I know the Brake Servo is a hinderance but i don’t know if i justify a Re-Route or a Remote one. 

Onto the Cams is it a straight One in One out for the lower-end cams or is it new Springs etc. not sure as there’s a gap in the info regarding Cam Installation. 

I’ll definitely pop over to the GT Forums, heard good stuff.

i’ve heard of the Sierra Rears, just wondering about the fronts, seen some info regarding 2.2 Carlton is a straight swap but seems the majority has taken advantage of this already…

 

Thank you! It does suit it but my it’s like a Canal Boat 😄

[611]

Lots of heat on the carbs. With twin 45's and a hot day it would run crap if stuck in traffic for too long as i think the heat used to evaporate the petrol in the carb.

I tried all sorts to reduce it with wrapping the exhaust etc.. btu not much use. Did this in the end to extract the air from the engine bay. Vented out through the bonnet.

 

 

Cam on mine was a straight swap on the Enem. You could have used harder springs but mine is not revving high. They use hydraulic lifter so i needed to get those. I think Kent are solid lifter. Get a vernier, much better if you can dial the cam in.Old cam out, new in and fitted new lifter and all done 🙂

 

Quite a few pics and a bit of info on the rears on my blog https://www.theopelproject.com/rear-disc-brakes/

I think there are some Audi options for the front, im sure someone on here did a kit?

Take the servo off, fit a nice set of wilwood pedals with the right master cylinders and just press it a bit harder 🙂 That's what i have on mine now, then you can just wack the carbs on with an air filter and happy days. Again, few pics on the blog. Hydraulic clutch is nice as well while your there with the pedals 🙂

I had 2.1 with the carb setup (2.0L bored) And it was nice and quick. Relatively cheap to do for the extra power in a CIH if you can find a decent engine shop that doesnt charge a fortune and look on Opel GT source in the US as they have quite a bit of engine stuff i think. 

Lots here, but not that cheap!

https://www.krause-rennsporttechnik.de/shop/Motorenbereich/CIH

 

[Jessopia74]

An original 19s cam is better than the 214, in fact 214 pretty useless tbh. Biggest gain you will see is find a 2.2 or 2.4 lump to work with. Seriously throwing money at a 2.0 CIH is pointless as it will result in disappointment for bhp per £100 spent 

[SHarper]

8 hours ago, Jessopia74 said:

An original 19s cam is better than the 214, in fact 214 pretty useless tbh. Biggest gain you will see is find a 2.2 or 2.4 lump to work with. Seriously throwing money at a 2.0 CIH is pointless as it will result in disappointment for bhp per £100 spent 

That’s a good opinion but also a-bit vague. I mentioned that i ditched the Fuel Injection on the 20E, the 2.2/2.4 Setup uses a different Intake Manifold design than the 16/19 and both 20S/E, the Exhaust is the same but not the Intake. 

I had Suspicions that the 20E was the better Cam of the lot which i have currently, i intend to run south of the Original Stuff.

The Tuning potential is endless from the 19S and Above, Supercharger Kits and Even Turbo Kits if you find one. The 2.2/2.4 May use the Same Engine Mounts but it’s then Factoring in; Rebuild Prices, Sourcing One for Good Value, Locating a Carb Manifold w/ Carb to even get it roadworthy, Parts Availability? 

I was ushered away from a 2.2/2.4 a while back when i first took interest into a swap. They might be good but i’d be spending 2x as much maybe 3x as much as my 20E trying to find a good quality running Lump, which that money could go to a few tuning parts.

I appreciate what you’re saying…but at the same time i intended this post to be 20E Advice haha! 😅 Not being Picky btw.

 

Sam

[Jessopia74]

In all honesty, you *might* make 130bhp, but don’t bet anything on it. 
‘You’re covering old ground that many of us did in the 90s when technically performance parts was more plentiful and cheaper and I spent god knows how many hours modding my own CIH engines (including porting the heads).
 

FYI you can use the 2.2 manifold &head (just)  as I had one the exclusive I purchased, it does just fit . But I Long sold on the boat anchor!

You can also use the 2.0 head with c30ne valves and ported to match the inlet does help massively, and then fit on to the 2.0 , 2.2 or 2.4 block. You can even use just the crankshaft/rods/pistons in the 2.0 block if you don’t want anyone to know 😉

A 2.4 will be better money spent for the performance hike. 
 

Also just remember, if going twin carbs, you will need to relocate the brake booster & possibly the master cylinder for clearance if you want air filters .

BTW LE-Jetronic from the GTE can cope with a 2.4 bottom end and mild upgrades if you also use a Monza AFM and adjustable rising rate FPR it will cope with around 160BHP demands if you want budget. 

 

 

[611]

These day i think you have to be realistic with all engines. Things are so expensive and even getting things machined is not cheap. The 2.4 is a good choice but as i know, expensive if you can find one.

You need to either decide to spend a fortune for a really quick engine with power or just go for a nice setup and mod it as much as you can within budget. My 2.1 was plenty quick enough for my A. I got sucked into the 2.4 route, spent a fortune and it is nice to drive now but the old screaming 2.1 with twin carbs was probably as much fun in a different way. Sounded way cooler!!

2.0L, balanced flywheel, 5 speed, bored out as much as you can, big valve head and decent cam, running twin 45's is how i would go.

If you want to go fast, you need option 2, which is what i also did, buy one of these!!