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Manta A Rallye Gauges Help With Installation


Thomas77GR
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Hello

I would like to fit an original set of rallye gauge to my A series. I have a series of questions and i would appreciate any help - guidance.

1. What amp wires do i need to buy to connect the ammeter and oil pressure gauge? (8, 17 or 27 amp?)

2. The gauges are electrical (not the mechanical type). The ammeter gauge has two terminals at the back (positive and negative) and the oil pressure has 3 (positive, G, and earth). The engine is a B manta CIH with a oil pressure sensor with dual connector - i´m assuming one is for the warning light and the other for the oil pressure gauge.. where would the 3 terminals behind the oil pressure gauge connect to? (positive, G and earth)? can somebody email me a simpliied wiring diagram or offer some step by step guidance on how to connect them?

3. what is the most convenient point for wiring in the lighting for the gauges?

Also the temperature gauge is giving me a false reading (the temp needle is always within the blue section). The fuel gauge gives a quite accurate reading. That should mean that the voltage regulator at the back of the dash is ok shouldn´t it? Am I right to assume that if the voltage regulator was faulty then both the temp and fuel gauge would show innaccurate readings?

my email address is tbamp77@hotmail.com if you would like to email me attachments directly.

many thanks in advance..

thomas (A series JLD2N).

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Hello

I would like to fit an original set of rallye gauge to my A series. I have a series of questions and i would appreciate any help - guidance.

1. What amp wires do i need to buy to connect the ammeter and oil pressure gauge? (8, 17 or 27 amp?)

2. The gauges are electrical (not the mechanical type). The ammeter gauge has two terminals at the back (positive and negative) and the oil pressure has 3 (positive, G, and earth). The engine is a B manta CIH with a oil pressure sensor with dual connector - i´m assuming one is for the warning light and the other for the oil pressure gauge.. where would the 3 terminals behind the oil pressure gauge connect to? (positive, G and earth)? can somebody email me a simpliied wiring diagram or offer some step by step guidance on how to connect them?

3. what is the most convenient point for wiring in the lighting for the gauges?

Also the temperature gauge is giving me a false reading (the temp needle is always within the blue section). The fuel gauge gives a quite accurate reading. That should mean that the voltage regulator at the back of the dash is ok shouldn´t it? Am I right to assume that if the voltage regulator was faulty then both the temp and fuel gauge would show innaccurate readings?

my email address is tbamp77@hotmail.com if you would like to email me attachments directly.

many thanks in advance..

thomas (A series JLD2N).

oil pressure - has 3 (positive, G, and earth) positive = ing live, G = oil pressure swich, earth = link with other earths and take back to ground

The ammeter gauge. - one to Starter and one to AC generator

Clock - linkn from stater pin on ammeter gauge.

Lights - you need to eather splice into the lighting loom or just conect to an ing live ( lights willl only be on when ing is live)

gauges.jpg

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Thanks for this, I´ve been told that the ammeter should never be earthed and from the diagram appears that the ammeter is earthed via the common earthing cable. Which is right?

any guidance on the amperage of the cables? is the following right?

8amp wires for the lighting circuit and clock

17 amp wires for connection to oil P sender

27 amp wires for the ammeter connections

should I use fuses in line somewhere in all the above connections and where would be the most appropriate point(s)?

thanks

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Thanks for this, I´ve been told that the ammeter should never be earthed and from the diagram appears that the ammeter is earthed via the common earthing cable. Which is right?

any guidance on the amperage of the cables? is the following right?

8amp wires for the lighting circuit and clock

17 amp wires for connection to oil P sender

27 amp wires for the ammeter connections

should I use fuses in line somewhere in all the above connections and where would be the most appropriate point(s)?

thanks

The ammeter will need a cable suitable to cover more than the max current the car will ever experience (except for the starter motor, as this should not be in the ammeter circuit).

Ammeters are dangerous if not fitted correctly, so my advice is not to fit it if you are not confident. I have seen two cars suffer electrical fires due to poorly fitted ammeters.

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Ammeters are dangerous if not fitted correctly, so my advice is not to fit it if you are not confident. I have seen two cars suffer electrical fires due to poorly fitted ammeters.

:o

Thats mine going up for sale then!

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Re: ammeter... I have found my haynes manual (which i thought i had lost) and it shows that the ammeter is connected to the starter (where the cable from the positive battery terminal attaches to) and also to the alternator at the point where the cable from the starter comes to.. i hope this makes sense..

I´ve also been told that 27 amp cables would be fine for the ammeter..

any more advice?

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Re: ammeter... I have found my haynes manual (which i thought i had lost) and it shows that the ammeter is connected to the starter (where the cable from the positive battery terminal attaches to) and also to the alternator at the point where the cable from the starter comes to.. i hope this makes sense..

I´ve also been told that 27 amp cables would be fine for the ammeter..

any more advice?

It's not as simple as a 27amp cable being ok. It depends on what has been added to the car electrically.

If you add extra driving lights. heated rear window, a three speed fan plus all the standard items etc etc you can easily take maximum draw above 27 amps.

You have to rate the cable to the requirements of your car.

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Hello

My A series alternator has the following written on it... 002 3043 45A Delco Remy (the engine is a 2.0L out of a GTE). So does this mean that the rating is 45amp?

so next step?

Also, the ammeter gauge has the following stamped on the back 190 04/37/3 10.72

and the oil pressure gauge has 350 271/12/6 12V

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If i assume my alternator is rated at 45Amp then could i double up the wires to the ammeter's terminals? (27amp + 27amp = 54amp)

27amp wires are the thickest that motorfactors do.. so where else can I find wires thicker than 27amp?

and should i connect the ammeter one end to the alternator and the other to the battery's positive terminal or the alternator and the starter's solenoid (where the battery cable ties onto).

I've also seen that all the ring connectors are max up to 15amp.. clearly these would be bad to use with thicker size wires (like 27amp or bigger) ... so how should one fix these thick cables in place if the ring connectors are lower amperage?

anyone?

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I have managed to find 39amp wires from ebay (which should be better than the 27amp cables I had up to now)

Another question: Would battery/starter type cable be ok to use for the ammeter? The ones I've seen can handle 415amp. or is this going too far?

If I run a 39amp cable from the ammeter terminal L+ (which apparently stands for Lichtmaschine = generator) to the alternator and another 39amp cable from the other ammeter terminal (marked B+) to the +ve of the battery, do I have to change any other existing cables around? I've been told that the starter has to stay OUT of the ammeter circuit. How can i make sure that is the case?

ADVICE needed urgently please...

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Sorry to say this but if you do not know what you're doing then it would be best to get someone to give you a hand that does.

Getting this wrong could have dire consequences to you or your car. There are just some jobs that you can’t give advice to, as if it is miss interpreted it could cause injury and/or loss of your car.

I’m not trying to be offensive but you wouldn’t take your gas boiler apart for the fun of it (unless trained), well the same applies here.

People see 12 volt car batteries as harmless but when you are playing with a thick cable with a high current rating and talking about running it directly from your battery. You could give yourself nasty burns or worse.

Sorry to harp on but like i said i have seen the consequences of fitting an ammeter incorrectly.

If you are really keen then try a company like vehicle wiring products. Vehicle Wiring Products

They sell cable rated upto 60 amps and terminals to suit.

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thanks snowy,

i appreciate what you are saying, i was hoping it would be much more straightforward n was expecting more people with A mantas who had these gauges installed. i also was hoping to get some advice from someone with knowledge n expertise on car electrics on here. and the chance to learn something from planning and installing something diy.

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thanks snowy,

i appreciate what you are saying, i was hoping it would be much more straightforward n was expecting more people with A mantas who had these gauges installed. i also was hoping to get some advice from someone with knowledge n expertise on car electrics on here. and the chance to learn something from planning and installing something diy.

This job is easy, if you know what you are doing. I could give you a wiring diagram but i'd be worried that you may miss read what i've said.

It is a very simple procedure as long as you take your time and remember some basics. Such as keep the battery disconnected while fitting the gauge. Do not reconnect the battery till you have checked, double checked and then checked it one more time. This doesn't just go for the actual wiring but also the mounting.

An ammeter has to be in the circuit to work (In series). So if you want to measure current then place the ammeter in the circuit you want to measure. Hence needing a cable that will handle the maximum draw placed on that particular circuit.

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