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Engine Starts But Wont Stay Running


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Hi, i have 86 gte coupe and when i go to start the engine it turns and fires but then cuts out. :angry: The engine was out of the car for a while for a good cleaning and service and i put it back in last week. Ive checked all hoses and wires and their all connected and there is plenty of petrol in the tank so its not that. Would it be the control unit for the injection unit thats causing it.

Thanks for any replys.

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It sounds like your fuel injection relay is not working.

You can try the 2p method as described but is not exactly the safest method. Plus doesn't do the fragile fuse box any good either. But worth a try if you want to prove a point.

Or you do this...

Check the live feed to the coil on the relay. Think it's a black wire. It also passes through a connector on the back of the engine. Comes from the ignition switch.

I've had similar to you. Turned out to be this wire, loose in the relay connector. But when you swap relays it makes the connection good again for a short while.

You also have to have a signal from the hall sensor unit to switch the relay (green wire). This sometimes breaks down to!!

Off the top of my head I think the relay connections go something like this:

30 - permanent live, thick red cable.

87 - feed to fuel pump, thick white or blue

87b - feed to injectors, throttle switch etc, thick white or blue

15 - switch live from ignition switch for relay coil - thin black

1 - signal from ignition hall sensors, thin green

50 - switch live from ignition for relay and thermo time switch, cold start valve etc, thin red black

31 - earth for relay coil, thin brown.

Wire colours may vary on different cars .Also I might have the feeds the wrong way around. Some other manta nutter will probably correct me.

In an emergency or for testing purposes. If you suspect the relay then bridge terminals 30, 87 and 87b together. The pump should run (all the time!!!!) and you should have power to the injectors. The car should also start. You can drive like this but I wouldn't recommend it for too long.


If you know your amp/coil is good i think you can test your hall sensor like this.

Pull the three pin plug off the distributor. Put the king lead close to a suitable earth point. With the ignition on. Earth the blue/green wire(I think), on off on off etc.. This Should, if memory serves, give you a spark at the king lead. If you get a spark this way but not with the three pin plug plugged in (assuming you've tested for supply etc) then you hall sensor is dead.

All I can remember is that it is one of the outer pins that you earth. If you look at the Haynes manual wiring diagram you should be able to confirm which wire it is.

This is only off the top of my head. Check out the haynes manual to confrim this before trying it.

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