Leon Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 Overjoyed at my hatch passing the MOT with no advisories, I need to tend to the bodywork. Next summer she's getting new sills, engine bay respray and a new rear valance which brings my question - is the rear panel hard to change on the Manta hatch? I've seen pictures of one on a coupe being replaced that looked very straightforward, is this the same on the hatch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick-Manta Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 I wouldn't have thought it'd be as hard as doing a quarter panel or nosecone. What would make it worse is if the panel was accident damaged as it'll never line up without loads of complicated fettling. My GTE hatch has a rusty lower panel, all visible from under the bumper and behind that where the lip of the rear panel starts with the boot floor is rotten and has pretty much disappeared. After dropping out the tank I'm going to tackle it myself, so it can't be that hard if I'm doing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 hi there. the main & big difference betwwen a hatch is that the rear panel comes as an outer skin which is spot welded all around its edges & also in various places to the inner panel. whereas on a coupe or cav / ascona saloon the rear panel comes off as one unit.inner & all. so replacing a coupe rear end would involve seperating the sides & where it meets boot floor. a hatch being harder as you dont want to damage the inner panel/weatherstrip area etc. also the lower part of the hatch panel joins to the lower inner valance which is harder to get to to repair as its a`` lie on your back underneath job!personally i would just replace rear valance up to behind bumper level but this obviously depends on what condition your panel is in. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leon Posted November 26, 2009 Author Share Posted November 26, 2009 Cheers - the rear panel on my car is straight and in good condition, it's just irretrievably crusty at the bottom. I think I might take your advice cam.in.head and just replace it up as far as behind the bumper and overlap the 2 panels slightly, hiding the join with the bumper. It's the joining the bottom lip of the valance to the inner valance that I'm not really relishing, is it spot welded or seam welded there? Suppose I could plug weld and then make it watertight with tigerseal and seam sealer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith1200 Posted November 26, 2009 Share Posted November 26, 2009 (edited) Kinda looked into that myself a couple of years ago. I reckon, with a wee bit of bending/cutting a Hadrians rear lower panel will fit better than using 'flat steel'. The angle on the hadrians(coupe)panel is wrong. but the other bits 'should' line-up with some work. I'd cut out the wee bits of rot and seam weld in patches:thumbup GL keith Edited November 28, 2009 by keith1200 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted November 28, 2009 Share Posted November 28, 2009 the bottom is spot welded to the inner .its usual of course that if the outer panel is grotty then the inner will be as well. it was on mine when i did it (78 sportshatch)so had to replace most of the lower inner bit as well. most definately a fuel tank out job as well .this resulted in my non leaking tank becoming holed when i removed the tank straps !! . all good fun but worth it in the end . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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