DadnLadRSprint Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Over the summer between jobs i stripped my Rekord Sprint engine (19H). Now I've got time it need rebuiding Here are the parts I think Require replacing or are worth doing whilst its apart Oil Pressure sensor Piston rings Bearings - Crank bearings - Conrod Bearings Gaskets - Sump gasket - Head gasket - Rocker cover Seals - Crank seal - Valve seals? Whats the chances for finding a seal kit for the DFO carbs? is there a setup guide? Is there anything I've missed? Is there a recommended source to buy parts from or placed I should avoid? Thanks Lewis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doveyte2800 Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Lewis i got all my bearing requirements satisfied by FW Thorntons, top guys and can get most stuff for you. regards Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted January 15, 2015 Share Posted January 15, 2015 Why do you need piston rings, are the cylinders worn? I spent years and years rebuilding engines, and to this day I cannot understand why some people, not saying you are!!! think that new piston rings will fit an oval bore, if the rings are broken, but haven't scored the bore, all very well and good, but do check the cylinders before fitting new rings. The same goes for crank bearings, are the journals OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadnLadRSprint Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 To be honest the engine isn't in to bad a condition. I broke it down for the experience and a clean up more than anything and thought I might aswell replace parts while I had the chance, time and so that I know where I stand with it when it's on the road The only real damage I remember seeing is the valve plates. Most seem to have cracks in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 To be honest the engine isn't in to bad a condition. I broke it down for the experience and a clean up more than anything and thought I might aswell replace parts while I had the chance, time and so that I know where I stand with it when it's on the road The only real damage I remember seeing is the valve plates. Most seem to have cracks in... Excuse me asking, but what are Valve Plates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dog321fish Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 Glad I am not the only one who does not know what "Valve Plates" are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadnLadRSprint Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Sorry it's been a while since I stripped the top half If I'm right there's cap that sits on top if the spring followed by a disc (cracked part) and then secured by two half collects. This is going by memory from the beginning of last year so maybe completely wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadnLadRSprint Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Found a pic. There are Hair line cracks i guess caused by stress about 3mm in from the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony g Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 They are known as valve retainers. Most likely cracked from an over rev at some point but maybe just fatigue. If you are going with new rings I would get the bores measured first for "roundness" as Julian has touched on. If all good a light hone from a machinist (Im not a fan of diy honing). Whilst there at machinists get the deck surface (where the head gasket sits) machined nice and flat. Same for the cylinder head surface too. Get the valve seats cut professionally and if the valves are being reused clean them up and get them refaced while the head is being worked on. This will ensure a good valve seal and be trouble free for years. Get them to check guides too. HTH Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadnLadRSprint Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 They are known as valve retainers. Most likely cracked from an over rev at some point but maybe just fatigue. If you are going with new rings I would get the bores measured first for "roundness" as Julian has touched on. If all good a light hone from a machinist (Im not a fan of diy honing). Whilst there at machinists get the deck surface (where the head gasket sits) machined nice and flat. Same for the cylinder head surface too. Get the valve seats cut professionally and if the valves are being reused clean them up and get them refaced while the head is being worked on. This will ensure a good valve seal and be trouble free for years. Get them to check guides too. HTH Tony Thanks for clearing that up and the advise! I'm looking at valves as well so i can run purely on unleaded. Looks like it's time to open the wallet Unfortunately the unit i had the cars in is being built on so finding a new place is top priority atm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 (edited) Thanks for clearing that up and the advise! I'm looking at valves as well so i can run purely on unleaded. Looks like it's time to open the wallet Unfortunately the unit i had the cars in is being built on so finding a new place is top priority atm It's the valve seats that determine if you can run on unleaded, not the valves, I don't know how old your engine is, but I don't think that I am wrong in saying that from a certain date, in the eighties, the heads of the CIH engine are fitted with valve seats that will allow you to run on unleaded, I'm sure someone on here will jump in now and let us know what stamping on the cylinder head will tell you this, I have 1977 Cavvy with a 1.9 lump, but as I only do around 2,000 miles between MOTs and never in high revs, I don't need to change the seats, they don't get time to get HOT, We all cool down as we get older Lewis Edited January 20, 2015 by Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DadnLadRSprint Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 It's the valve seats that determine if you can run on unleaded, not the valves, I don't know how old your engine is, but I don't think that I am wrong in saying that from a certain date, in the eighties, the heads of the CIH engine are fitted with valve seats that will allow you to run on unleaded, I'm sure someone on here will jump in now and let us know what stamping on the cylinder head will tell you this, I have 1977 Cavvy with a 1.9 lump, but as I only do around 2,000 miles between MOTs and never in high revs, I don't need to change the seats, they don't get time to get HOT, We all cool down as we get older Lewis The Rekord is 1968 1.9S CIH. By the looks of it, most people are running them on unleaded until a fault becomes present. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 You sure will have to have the seats done then as you seem to think it the original engine. I had the seats done on my last Manta, cost me £80.00 in 1985, that included skimming the head face, cost a bit more now I expect!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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