moodoo Posted September 1, 2015 Author Share Posted September 1, 2015 Guys, roughly whereabouts in the pedal travel should the clutch become disengaged? I took the starter motor out, so I could get my finger in to feel when the friction plate became free. Its not starting to disengage until the pedal is about 3/4 of the way down. It should happen before that, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 Hey Fin When i put the 5 speed in i swapped to the later type fork and cable so maybe its the setup that is wrong for the 5 speed? I would measure the cable but mine adjusted to be longer and the bulkhead mount made bigger so i dont think my measurements will help you. if you cn find someone on here with the standard 5 speed cable to measure that might help. If you have the cable disconnected and push the clutch lever in can you activate the clutch? as in press the clutch cover fingers in towards the plate? because as far as i know it should take much more than hand pressure to push those fingers in. It might be different with the pedal as you might already have applied pressure where it has been adjusted so making it light and almost like the clutch is part engaged? just thinking out loud here. But i have always had that other type of fork to you on the 5 speed?? Some progress with mine, she sort of starts but wont run! a few issues with the injection setup to sort out, but at least the engine turns over :-) Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 The clutch cable length shouldn't really be a problem as long as the pedal height is right and there is no slack in the cable you will get the same amount of cable movement. Only thing i don't know is the lengths of the 2 clutch arms. If the early one is longer then that gives you more leverage so making the pedal lighter, it would also mean the 4.25" measurement would give a different angle of arm than the shorter arm. Before you take the engine or box out again to change the arm i'd have a play with the clutch arm adjuster stud. See if you can get a better feeling pedal and working clutch and ignore the 4.25" or 4.5" measurement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted September 3, 2015 Share Posted September 3, 2015 Fin i would go with mantasrme's advice and forget the measurements and connect the cable up and do the adjustments form scratch on feel rather than measuring and see if you can get it setup with with no slack and a better pedal feel as im sure earlier in your thread you said you can push the clutch arm with you hand and release? or was it the pedal? if its the clutch fork you can push with your hand and activate it im sure that's wrong as i dont ever remember being able to push a clutch fork in just with my hand? i might be wrong? When you have that all sorted out can you help out with mine ;-) Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moodoo Posted September 3, 2015 Author Share Posted September 3, 2015 Thanks guys. Ok, have been playing with it this evening. I had confused myself a bit I think...basically it boils down to the cable controlling pedal height, and the adjuster controlling where the free end of the release fork starts. End of story. Right?! 2 things I discovered this evening: 1) I decided to fit a new spare cable I had, just in case. I discovered that at the pedal end, the cable inner had worn a groove almost completely through the cable outer metal housing. It was still moving ok, but it was on its last legs for sure. My car has injection on it, which makes the cable have to point down pretty much as soon as it gets into the engine bay. Where it comes out of the firewall is pointing up, and this combination has meant the inner cable sawed its way through the outer housing over the last God knows how many years. 2) when I went to disconnect the cable at the bellhousing end, I found the PO had fitted a spacer, between outer cable and bellhousing. Why, I don't know, but it does explain why my old clutch worked when the fork to bellhousing distance was much less than the 4.25" it was meant to be. Maybe he fitted it to save having to try to get at the adjuster, which is almost impossible on mine. Now neither of these 2 things explain what was happening with my new clutch, but just goes to show you never know what you'll find!! I'll hopefully take some pics tomorrow. Anyway, after all that, and back to the job in hand...I found that if the adjuster bolt is screwed out any way far at all, that the clutch fork makes contact with the back of the pressure plate before the clutch pedal bottoms out. So...screw the adjuster bolt in as far as it goes, and set the right pedal height, means the cable at the firewall is pulled out almost all the way, clip is in the 12th out of 14 grooves. But, I have good pedal height, and a slightly stiffer pedal. Now at this, the clutch just about disengages, it's very near the floor, but it is ok, and given that it's a brand new clutch, the release point will only ever move up. David, I think you're spot on about the arm length. If I had a shorter arm, the effort would be a bit greater to push it, and the clutch would move further for a given pedal travel, so I wouldn't be so close to thr floor before it disengages. Don't suppose anyone has a spare later clutch fork I could try?! I put it all back together, and just started her up to see...man my new engine sounds nice...forgot how nice...! There's still the slipping sound, and the bite point isn't very distinct, but then the cluth has to slip when you're moving slowly around anyway. I used not be able to hear it, and maybe the noise is making it seem worse than it is. Will take her out at the weekend and at least start running in the engine, we'll see how the clutch settles with a few miles on it. Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated. Andy - I'd gladly try to help, but seeing as I'm struggling to get a clutch adjusted, I think you're asking the wrong guy to help with your fancy engine!! Fin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted September 4, 2015 Share Posted September 4, 2015 Hey Fin It sounds like your getting there! I had my cable extended so it would go out over the engine more and not be on such an angle, your welcome to it it it will help you out as im going hydraulic! but you will need the other fork which is the cast one (i think) i should have a rummage in the loft in case i have one laying about. I can just about get mine to start but its not getting enough fuel so wont run (its mapped on a vx220, so i think it needs much more fuel than that for my setup) and i think i might need to adjust the timing pickup. Its all a very steep learning curve for me. more tinkering for me this weekend as well, but at least you can drive yours! I will climb up in the loft and look for a fork and let you know. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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