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Manta GTJ ...from a far away.


Ramunas
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Hello to all,

My name is George and i am from Bulgaria. I am owner of 1 red GTJ 2.0s coupe and a gold 2.0i GT one used for spares.

I`ve been reading and following this exceptionally useful forum for quite some time now and just wanted to share my toys with you and maybe get some insights for this and that.

Here is my car (My other priced possession is a e30 318is with bilstein b8, eibach springs, recaro)

The last pic is before it got "remastered" to irmscher look with russian lights and some fiberglass and filler by the previous owner.

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The body need one chassis leg repair, 1 jackstand and small patch on the A pillar and thats about it....besides some surface rust its absolutely solid.

I`ll be sand blasting the underbody sometime April 2016 as the car is completely stripped now and put away for the winter. Then epoxy primer, then Upol raptor for the underside and i think i`ll keep it red (i hate red color) but will be respraying it as the paint is kinda messy now.
Unortunately ebay is the only way i can sort some cool stuff from England and Germany, but i`ve managed to sort irmscher 3 piece spoiler for the boot, U-pol copper weld thru primer(this kind of stuff is not available in Bulgaria), U-pol Raptor bed liner for the underbody, 2 Dellortos DHLA 45 and some other stuff.

The main stuff i wanted to ask you is...what to do in the engine bay.
Option 1 is to keep the original 2.0s block if its okey(maybe use the 2 litre block from the other manta if this one is garbage) use 2.2/2.4 head (i have sorted both) and try the "chopped 3.0i intake manifold" route and keep it fuel injected.
The problem is that i dont know what to expect as a final bhp number...will it be worth all the hassle? What injectiors and loom should i use the 2.2 one or the 2.4 ? Which ecu - from 2.2 or 2.4?

Option 2 is to put the 2.4 engine(2.2 or 2.4 head is better??) that i got from a frontera with the 2 Dellortos 45 and sometime later buy a 288 cam.Maybe some slight porting and thats all. What bhp should you reckon this setup will make? I guess fuel consumption will be crap? mpg suggestions?
I also have my eye on a 240/740 1030/1031 LSD volvo axle but that is down the list for now.
I really dont want to do the C20Xe conversion...it seems alot of trouble. And IMO mantas should have cih engine :)
I am looking forward to your toughts on the project. 

Cheers,
George

PS: found 2 pics of the donor car 

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Edited by Ramunas
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Cheer, mates
:) Thank you all !
@Berlinetta -The gold one has no papers and hasnt been driven since 2005 when it was overheated and it blew the headgasket. So it has to be for spare parts. The good bit is it is quite complete...only the fuel pump is missing as far as i can tell.

There are 10-15 mantas in Bulgaria from which only 5-6 are running as far as i know - couple of them are with 3.0e engine, two turboed, one that was drifting car with heavily tuned c20XE and so on.

Any advice on the options for the engine ? i think dual carbs will be easier for me ...what HP is to be expected from a combo of  2.0s block, 2.2/2.4 head, dbilas manifold and 2x 45 dellortos dhla with stock 2.0s cam? what is a good road/sport cam for this combination? 

I have all bits except the dbilas intake manifold (250 euro on ebay..quite price for now) i guess i`ll fabricate one from pipes and metal for starter.

I just sent the headlight reflectors for refurbishment.They will make them better than original.
(BTW the reflectors are different - one is the metal and the other is from lucas headlight and is plastic but i hope when the headlights are closed they will look the same)

Currently i am making chassis routisserie with wheels from a shopping cart :)

Edited by Ramunas
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Option 1 is to keep the original 2.0s block if its okey(maybe use the 2 litre block from the other manta if this one is garbage) use 2.2/2.4 head (i have sorted both) and try the "chopped 3.0i intake manifold" route and keep it fuel injected.
The problem is that i dont know what to expect as a final bhp number...will it be worth all the hassle? What injectiors and loom should i use the 2.2 one or the 2.4 ? Which ecu - from 2.2 or 2.4?

Option 2 is to put the 2.4 engine(2.2 or 2.4 head is better??) that i got from a frontera with the 2 Dellortos 45 and sometime later buy a 288 cam.Maybe some slight porting and thats all. What bhp should you reckon this setup will make? I guess fuel consumption will be crap? mpg suggestions?
 

Hello George,

Welcome to the forum.

I have had a 2.4 from an Omega with a 2.0 head, 45/40 valves, 296° cam, manifold and Group A exhaust: rolling road test approx 175 bhp @flywheel or 150 @rear wheels. Currently I run a 2.0 increased to 2.4, crank from a diesel, forged Cam pistons, hardened 45/40 valves and springs, 296° cam, skimmed 2.2 head, "chopped" 3.0 intake, 4 in 1 manifold and Group A exhaust. I might have forgotten some stuff as a friend built this engine. Had it on a rolling road: 180 bhp @flywheel or 155 bhp @ rear wheels. Fuel consumption depends very much on your right foot, but in town stop and go about 17-20 mpg and motorways 25-30 mpg.

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  • 2 weeks later...

:)

I just sent the headlight reflectors for refurbishment.They will make them better than original.
(BTW the reflectors are different - one is the metal and the other is from lucas headlight and is plastic but i hope when the headlights are closed they will look the same):)

Hello Ramunas? George

Question.

Where did you send headlight reflectors for refurbishment?

Could you send contact info.

Do you have photos, before and after?

Nice manta! You like volvo axle also

 

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Happy new year to everybody :) Wish you all the best and less tin worm action. (a proper Opel wish)
@brady - http://ewertlak.com/index-en.html This is the company i sent my reflectors to - it will cost around 27-8 quid in total for both reflectors to be refurbished.
They will be ready in couple of days i hope and i`ll see how they turned out. I`ll put an "after" photo only as i forgot to take a "before" one but they were pretty much rubbish....almost no chrome left on them and even a bit of rust on the metal one. (1 relfector is plastic, the other is metal)

I can cooperate if anybody want to use their service.

Yesterday i got one 2.2 engine out of rekord for (110 pounds ....hope its not totally trashed) (but without the flywheel and clutch kit) and imediatelly got monza 9inch flywheel of ebay for 67 euro...now i am wondering what clutch kit to order.
Of of ebay there are few options: 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221982188844?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT - SACHS
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231538959499?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT - NK - (never heard of this brand before)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231535686771?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT - Drivetorque (never heard of this brand as well - mixed reviews on various forums)

There are few options here as well - LUK but quite a bit more money.

@Blue Thunder thanks for the specs, mate...these engines must have been planty fast in a manta shell.
 I am still wondering what to do. I guess if my block is okey i`ll transfer all the bits from the 2.2 rekord engine i got and either put the 2 dellorto 45s i got or drive it as is with the fuel injection. ( the manifolds are quite pricey 245 euro from dbilas and i have to spend another 100 euro for pipercross filter over the air horns) - i kinda want to keep the matching block and chassis numbers for originality sake.

PS: will 2.0e (i have 2.0s one as well) camshaft be any good in the 2.2 powerwise if i want to keep the injection but squeeze some more HP - i know the 2.2 cam is pretty bad.

Greetings, George

Edited by Ramunas
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6 hours ago, Ramunas said:

:) 
@bradyhttp://ewertlak.com/index-en.html This is the company i sent my reflectors to - it will cost around 27-8 quid in total for both reflectors to be refurbished.
They will be ready in couple of days i hope and i`ll see how they turned out. I`ll put an "after" photo only as i forgot to take a "before" one but they were pretty much rubbish....almost no chrome left on them and even a bit of rust on the metal one. (1 relfector is plastic, the other is metal)

I can cooperate if anybody want to use their service

@Blue Thunder

Thank you George, alot of omoc members will like this! Really poor reflector, mot failure, road safety test. Also poor headlights

The difference is early cars 1976-1984 had metal reflectors.

Later cars, 1985- 1988 had plastic reflectors.

Could you also repair round quad lights if i remove glass.

When you receive your new reflectors! Please post a photo.

I have 6 square reflectors, and 5 round quad lights.

Do you accept paypal, i will send you a private message,

Thank you

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey hey :) i am web member now. Some really useful info i found in the members section!
Some work done on my manta.

Got the engine out and totally disassembled it. It had a low cost rebuild before...will send the block for measurements to check if the bores are ok (they have some wear on the top 5-10 mm but which cih block doesnt)...then new bearings cuz the ones are some cheap ones. I disassembled the 2.2 i got and it looks to be in very good shape....pistons will have new rings, the crank is good...will see how the piston rings are but they seem fine.
The idea is to put all the stuff from the 2.2 engine in the original block of my manta so that it has matching numbers ( here in bulgaria the number on the block is also in the papers of the car so when you change engine you have alot of paperwork to do afterwards ....and i want it to be original)

I ordered 9 inch flywheel from germany and will hopefully get it tommorrow, then slight skimming to clear it and then off to buy new clutch kit.

The headlights are coming along as well. Prepped and painted the metal surrounding with primer and then silver spray (for wheels) on the inside and black on the outside...They were rusty and flaking so now are like new :) ...glued them to the glass with transparent silicone and finally got my reflectors back...they look brand new and were total garbage before that.

@brady i promised to post photos when i get them so here you are. Except one very small kinda like paint drip on one of them they look perfect. The company specifically said that i should not touch them with bare hands or gently wipe them if i do before mounting.

@Retro Power Thanks for the quick delivery - i bought right jacking panel from you on ebay couple of days ago.

Hope to get the engine rebuild by the end of the month but will see depending on what i have here and what will be bought from Germany.

Here are some pics:

PS: Does anybody know whether the rekord/carlton 5 speed getrag that is mounted on my car is longer than the 4 speed manta gearbox, cuz the motor mounts where sitting kinda off when i got the engine out compared to the gold manta i have and use for reference (2.0, 4 speed).

PS: We are in a kind of wager/argument with my dad who is mechanic. 
What kind of power one can get with a stock 2.2 engine no modifications whatsoever with 2x 45 DHLA dellortos ...He says that there is no chance it will be more effective than the stock injection setup when i said it will make alot more power (130-140 hp) with just the carbs and even more with good cam on later stage.

I think i`ll just get it runing with the stock injection and see how it drives and then decide.

Regards,
George

 

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Edited by Ramunas
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  • 7 months later...

Time for an update.
Rebuild the 2.2 i bought into my original block (2.0s) - It was resleeved with old sleeves from isuzu diesel (the mechanic said this is the best route because the material is 10 times better than anything u can buy new), honing on bores, new piston rings, piston bolts, block plugs, all new gaskets, repocketed the valve seats...
I also happen to have 2.0 gte camshaft in the 2.2 head which had no visible wear which i read somewhere on this forum that was an upgrade on the original 2.2 camshaft..
Here is a picture of the closed engine

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Got my dash reupholstered in black and the heater vents repaired from scratch ( they were disintegrating). Havent played lego in a while....
AndyC is going to send me pair of Grey door cards and then a friend will do the roof lining in black so the interior is coming along as well...

Then i cut the front panels of both cars and pulled the engines and transmissions out.
I`ll have to make from the 2 front panels 1 because of some slight damage and rust.
Also i`ll cut the right inner wing from the gold one and put in the red one. Red one is totally solid but it has kinks from an old accident and i just cant leave it as is.
I ordered repair panel for the right chassis leg from Eckhard from germany and it is on its way. Also got jackstand panel from retropower. Other side is solid.

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Stumbled on Conolly front recaro seats in need of upholstery but bought them cuz they ware cheep. This is the worse one. Also have Gte Astra/kadett recaros (like the gte manta ones but dark grey) will see which one i choose.

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And then decided to look at the 2.2 wiring that i got with the engine. I must say i am not good with wires and had myself scratching...
Went through some threads here on the forum but still cant seem to understand how and where.

i have the full injection wiring loom with the ecu and the idle control unit in perfect shape so thats okey(the car drove okey for 100 miles from where the dude that sold me the engine bought the rekord) But then there comes a problem. The injection loom ends with a 4 pin connector and a round one with 5 pins which i dont know what it is for....
The 4 pin connector corresponds to a 3 pin one from my manta ...how to rework it ?
Whats the round one with 5 pins for ? i see where it goes on the loom with the starting module ?
...is it a problem that all i got from the rekord loom that goes from the injection to the car is just the 4 pin connector with cut of wires...where it goes from there ? to the back of the fuse box somewhere? (GOD PLEASE NOOOO! )

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the wires are totally different on the 3 pin one i have currently from the 2.0e engine.

Can someone please explain like to an idiot how i should go about the wiring ?
2.2 injection wiring - 4 pins goes to my 3 pin connector - how ?
How to deal with the starting module - where is it going -just to the ignition coil ?
What can i use from the 2.0e wiring and what should come from the 2.2.

Just to sum up ...I have the full intake manifold wiring, the wiring with the starting module and the ignition coil from the 2.2 and cut down 4 pin connector from the intake wiring loom to the car loom.

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There is always the option to fabricate carb manifold and put the two dellortos 45s i bought of lotus eclat...they might even be with right jets and bits as its similar engine.

I`ll dig in the search engine here to find some info on the wiring.

Meanwhile all help is welcomed!

Cheers, 
George 

PS: will 15 inch wheels 8.5J all round with ET15 fit without rolling fenders and spacers? RSL cult ...they look mad!

PS2: Is the rekord 5 speed getrag the same as manta 5 speed ? - i know i have to reweld the tunnel top little bit to the back if i chose to stay with it.
I had a 5 speed rekord one in the red manta but the whole engine and box were sitting kinda forward - engine mounts were not sitting properly..
Also have 4 speed from the gold one.
 

 

 

Edited by Ramunas
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I might try my luck on the facebook page as well later but i thought someone with knowledge on 2.2 wiring would have helped by know. I found gte loom with 4 pin connector on ebay.de for reference ...can it be that mine (it has 3 pin connector) wont be any good for the 2.2 engine and intake loom despite being original 2.0e manta.

cheers,

George

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From what I remember, the 3-pin connector is for the 2.0E L-Jet and the 4-pin connector is for newer (LE or later) systems. The only difference between the two is that the 4-pin connector has a blue wire for the fuel pump. On the L-Jet the fuel pump is driven from the dual relay and the feed to the dual relay is fused. On the LE and later systems the feed to the relay is unfused so the blue wire goes to the fuse box and from there to the pump.

3-pin             4-pin
Black             Black                  (switched +12)
Black/red         Black/red              (start signal from the ignition switch)
Green             Green                  (engine speed to rev counter)
---               Blue                   (power to fuel pump via fuse box)

You don't need anything from the 2.0E loom, you can remove it all. You do need to run a blue wire from the 4-pin connector on the injection loom to the fuel pump via a fuse as I mentioned above, but that's it.

The ignition and injection looms on the 2.2 system are separate, but join together with plugs

For the ignition side you need the coil, spark advance box and distributor, plus there will be some switches you should use - vacuum switch (connects to a port on the top of the throttle body), oil temperature switch (screws into the timing cover) and air temperature switch (just put it somewhere in the front of the engine bay or jumper the two wires of the connector together and omit it). In fact, if you don't have these switches you can jumper all of them but the car won't have the best advance curve in all circumstances. If you don't have the vacuum switch, remember to cap off the port on the top of the throttle body to avoid a vacuum leak!

I don't know what you mean by "starting module". I suspect it's either the coil amplifier (bolted to the coil bracket) or the spark advance box (the other module in the ignition loom). Both of these only connect to the ignition loom.

I've attached a 2,2E injection/ignition wiring diagrams from a Senator/Monza which should help you identify the wires at each connector from the colour codes. I don't have an L-Jet diagram to hand, I'm afraid, but someone with a Haynes manual may be able to make a scan for you.

Cheers,

Nick

86seite5.pdf

86seite6.pdf

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