2.0e alternator problem

[hoobby]

Started with a fully charged good battery after a week could barely turn the engine over gauge showing its charging tho on start up red light is on and gauge shows no increase from ignition on engine off but after a blip of throttle light goes out and gauge rises to just outside the orange zone but have noticed over the week has dropped from a higher reading would rather repair than replace would this be the voltage regulator playing up ? will run charge and parasitic draw test and check all connections this afternoon when I get up.

Also it's started making a quite ssssssssss since this problem started.

I have spare unit (in the shed....somewhere ?) was form  a 2.0s I would assume output would be the same/compatible?.

Edited December 16, 2020 by hoobby

[Jessopia74]

4 hours ago, hoobby said:

Started with a fully charged good battery after a week could barely turn the engine over gauge showing its charging tho on start up red light is on and gauge shows no increase from ignition on engine off but after a blip of throttle light goes out and gauge rises to just outside the orange zone but have noticed over the week has dropped from a higher reading would rather repair than replace would this be the voltage regulator playing up ? will run charge and parasitic draw test and check all connections this afternoon when I get up.

Also it's started making a quite ssssssssss since this problem started.

I have spare unit (in the shed....somewhere ?) was form  a 2.0s I would assume output would be the same/compatible?.

Yup, swap it over.  I would also do a battery test.

rectifier/regulator pack. On those Bosch ones, it comes out complete with the brushes so you should be able to just buy a new part for not a lot of money. But when you take it out check wear in stator as that would require a full refurb.

[hoobby]

Cheers Jess just done the tests at battery 80% charged all connections checked/cleaned did find the new belt was a little slack done 200miles so guess it had bedded in sssssssss sound has gone.

12.8v standing charge 14.2v at idle no load showed 12.2v when first started until the throttle was blipped 

12.6v at idle 13.8v with revs on full load 

 At the moment I'm assuming this was all down to the lose belt but will get the battery and alternator output checked as could be about amps not volts

 

Edited December 16, 2020 by hoobby

[Jessopia74]

8 minutes ago, hoobby said:

Cheers Jess just done the tests at battery 80% charged all connections checked/cleaned did find the new belt was a little slack done 200miles so guess it had bedded in sssssssss sound has gone.

12.8v standing charge 14.2v at idle no load showed 12.2v when first started until the throttle was blipped 

12.6v at idle 13.8v with revs on full load 

 At the moment I'm assuming this was all down to the lose belt but will get the battery and alternator output checked as could be about amps not volts

 

Yeah, load regulated by belt 😁

 

[cam.in.head]

absolutely yes.

a slipping belt can only transmit so much torque.

readings sound about right. .basically if the amps were down it would mean a diode was open and that would be a serious loss of output.so very unlikely.also a leaky diode would show as a dim glow of the battery light.as would a bad connection on or in the ignition switch( powering the light)

make sure the terminal connector on the alternator main lead is ok and the earth lead at the bottom if not just for peace of mind.

you can also test the alternator for AC leakage ( diodes) by measuring if there is any AC voltage present. there should be virtually zero .

a garage should have a battery tester and the car has a voltmeter so as long as its above 12 with stuff turned on all should be well .( if it shows 12 or above in the car it will be better at the battery anyway due to some voltage loss through the cables resistance and loading.

if you have  a mutimeter with an amps reading i would be tempted to check there is no excess current drain when everything is turned off .( expect less than 10 ma ) 0.01amp.  the only things running on a basic car like ours is the clock and the alternator regulator.unless you have a different stereo or an alarm.