Bilbo Posted October 10 Author Share Posted October 10 On 07/10/2024 at 22:33, Jessopia74 said: Bottom 2 corners are known water trap spots and are usually full of the semi setting stuff to keep the water out, so don’t be too sparing in those areas. Nice repair though, suppose it’s the silver lining to this problem 😎 Thanks for the tip, we went fairly heavy on the sealer this evening so I think we'll be good hopefully 😂 On 08/10/2024 at 12:46, cam.in.head said: yeah the lower areas are bad especially as they angle inwards . the official gm manual says put a bead in the aperture as you are doing but yes i agree with the inner-to-glass area and then i usually fit the window, add more right into the corner recesses ,then fit the trim strip (thats a job and a half even with the proper tool and a lot of the aftermarket trim doesnt fit well into the corner pieces !) then i mask up and run another bead just under the outer lip all around . this cleans up eith the masking tape and some panel wipe . some people say you shouldnt need ANY sealer at all but in practise you definately do ! actually fitting and removing the window is easy enough on your own and they usually centralise themselves quite well its the sealing and trim fitting that takes the time Thanks for the heads up on this, it was very helpful. 21 hours ago, Jonathan Pounsett said: Totally agree with @Jessopia74and @cam.in.head’s comments. AutoWindcreens replaced my screen and were adamant that no additional sealing was required as the rubber was in good order. The first time it rained water was getting in everywhere! I was really pissed off because the car had been 100% dry throughout its refurb. The second fitter from AutoWindscreens was “old school” - he knew it needed sealant and pumped it full. He agreed to come back a few weeks later to remove the excess that had oozed out and cleaned everything up. Not had any leaks since. …and If you’ve not already done so, remover the flexi ventilation pipes under the dash and vacuum them out and the blower box - you don’t want to blind yourself the first time you demist your screen. Thanks mate, I kept this message in mind this evening about the rain pissing in, went for it with the sealant haha. Yeah I will be removing my heater matrix this weekend and sticking the flexi head on the hoover inside the heater box to get every last bit of glass out before that heater goes on again for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted October 10 Author Share Posted October 10 So I picked up the windscreen from my parent's house. Wrapped it in a ton of bubble wrap and a blanket, and it literally fit on the back seat of my girlfriend's Alto by about 1cm 😂 A real tight fit! Anyway it survived the journey, so that's good at least. I got lucky this evening and as well as my mate who is pretty good with the string method, 2 other mates helped out as well. So we had someone at every section of the screen to manoeuvre it about and press where needed as the string was pulled out. I cleaned out the rubber seal first, got a few little pieces of smashed glass I missed out of it, and cleaned out a fair bit of old dry sealer, particularly from the corner sections. I thought about just using any old flexible sealant, but decided on 3M Windscreen sealant. Bit more expensive but I don't plan on doing this job twice, and it's supposed to be good stuff. Most 3M things I've had have been pretty good over the years tbh. Luckily an automotive restoration/repair place had it in stock to collect, which was ideal. Put a bead inside the rubber where the screen sits first of all, sort of trying to bead it on the front side of the seal so it will sit on the outside edge of the glass. With that done my mate filled the outer seal with the string, and I put a bead around the full windscreen aperture on the car, layering a little extra around the corners. Got the screen in with a little faff, but overall not too bad, the string method is tried and tested and it was mint to be honest. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Didn't break the screen doing it either, which was nice! Once this was done I masked the entire paint edge and with a mate using a plastic trim tool, he lifted the rubber and slid along, and I followed closely with the sealant gun. Added a layer around the entire outside edge under the rubber edge strip, and it all went in very nicely. Another mate then happened to have a diamond sort of shaped filler strip tool from his classic Mini owning days. It was a little wide for my need, so I just tapped it with a hammer to make it thinner, and it was absolutely perfect. Lubed up the channels a bit, and once I worked out how to actually use the bloody thing (thanks YouTube 😂), it got the filler strips in beautifully. A couple of small cracks in them, but none of them snapped, and all went in properly their entire length. Corner chrome pieces are all added as well. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. The top filler strip I may re-visit, as it is a little too far over to the passenger side I think, but given how simple it was once we worked out how to do it properly, I can probably sort that pretty quickly. Pretty quick turnaround on this to be honest, can't complain with 5 days to recover the car, remove screen, clear out glass, source a screen, and fit it 😂 especially as I've worked 3 of those days. Once the sealer has had time to cure a bit, it doesn't set fully anyway, I'll give it a test with some water to make sure it is completely sealing, fingers crossed! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 10 Share Posted October 10 yes 100% on cleaning the heater ducts. i sandblasted my aperture and sand was everywhere even when covered up ! broken glass 100% worse obviously 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted October 11 Author Share Posted October 11 16 hours ago, cam.in.head said: yes 100% on cleaning the heater ducts. i sandblasted my aperture and sand was everywhere even when covered up ! broken glass 100% worse obviously Such a pain honestly. If I knew it'd be such misery I would have taped the inside of the window up fully before we recovered it so it'd all have stuck together, but I thought it wouldn't break apart quite like it did. Oh well, what's done is done 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 11 Share Posted October 11 7 hours ago, Bilbo said: Such a pain honestly. If I knew it'd be such misery I would have taped the inside of the window up fully before we recovered it so it'd all have stuck together, but I thought it wouldn't break apart quite like it did. Oh well, what's done is done 😂 Come on! What would you do with all your free time if you did not need to do these tasks 🤣 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted October 21 Author Share Posted October 21 Update: windscreen doesn't leak. Very happy that's done with! Anyway, onto something a bit more interesting. My Manifold has done well for a cobbled together Frankenstein's Monster made from pipe from 3 different cars 😂 but most of it was mild steel, and after 2 corrosion related crack repairs, it was time to change it. No point buying something fancy as it won't fit anyway without cutting in half and modifying, so I decided to give it a go myself. Now I'll note at this point, I am not a fabricator, I don't have a TIG, and until we get a decent bandsaw everything is cut with a grinder. That being said, after a bit of an ordeal I think this has come out ok. Bought a stainless flange, 2mm oversized ports, perfect to slot the pipe into to port match to the engine. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Bought various stainless bends, a pre-made 4-1 collector, stainless MIG wire, and a few other things to get it sorted. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. I did some maths with the flange ports, worked out the circumference, and then worked out the circumference of the pipe I needed, so once crushed to shape it would slot inside the ports. That ended up being 41.3mm (1 5/8 inch) pipe. Started cutting the bends up to get what I needed: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. This took a fair while to get perfectly to shape, and took a little beating from the inside to get them all nice and flush to the flange: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. To simplify things and get the pipes all going the direction I need, I made these all 45 degrees to the flange. This also meant that it missed the heater matrix pipes, and the pipe work would all be pointing roughly down where I needed it to go. Obviously I warped the flange. I learned that even when being careful and using a heatsink, stainless loves to warp! Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. We did a few things to level it out, one of the most effective was 3 blow torches at the same time 😂, while it was clamped firmly down flat: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Sorted it well enough. I had a plan in mind, high rise manifold, all 4 pipes sweeping up together and down into the collector. It soon became apparent due to limited number of bends I had, and trying to keep things equal length, that this was going to be difficult. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. So far so good. When it came to the 3rd and 4th bends it started looking a bit mental. I wanted to keep it equal length ish, last thing I want is for it to sound like an n/a Subaru, not ideal. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. After a few head scratching moments I finally got it all routed in a way that worked. This collector is one of those slip-on collectors you use tabs and springs with, however in my infinite wisdom I thought the 42mm internal diameter of the collector slip-ons would be ok for 41.3mm OD pipe. It is not, that as it turns out is far too loose for a slip on collector. So I got a bit creative with the centre and welded it instead. Got it all welded up, and got a downpipe made up, O2 sensor bung in, and a flexi as well. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. And all done: Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Is it the neatest welding I've ever done? Honestly no, but it's gone pretty well and it's all working with no blows (apart from a little one from the centre or gooch of the collector if you will, I'll sort that soon). It looks a bit mental, but to be fair it doesn't sound like a Subaru so I must have done something right. Exhaust is a little louder now and the exhaust has a slightly nicer tone. Maybe it's the reduced amount of janky restrictions, or the fact the manifold is all stainless this time, not sure. Either way, pretty happy with this accomplishment! I'll get it off and polished up next weekend. 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 21 Share Posted October 21 That's better than some off the shelf efforts, good job indeed! Even more so without a bandsaw. If anyone has ever had experience with butting tube together nicely when all you have to cut it is a Hacksaw or Angle grinder, they will be very impressed for sure 🙌 Get a jig as what you have there is nearly an XE/8v profile and there is a shortage of such 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted October 21 Share Posted October 21 Very impressive, I have yet to try anything tubular, nearest I got was making from manifold down, with stainless pipe. Very cost affective, as the other way was beyond my budget. Think it cost me about £50 for 2.5 inch pipe and 4 bends. Had about 2 inches left, so it was tight! Mighty effort, as this is no way easy. I had to remove a XE manifold to heat wrap it. It took about 10mins removing and 10hrs refitting, trying to remember exact movement, jiggery-pokery thing. Did you use stainless mig wire? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted October 22 Author Share Posted October 22 16 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: That's better than some off the shelf efforts, good job indeed! Even more so without a bandsaw. If anyone has ever had experience with butting tube together nicely when all you have to cut it is a Hacksaw or Angle grinder, they will be very impressed for sure 🙌 Get a jig as what you have there is nearly an XE/8v profile and there is a shortage of such Oh yeah it took a lot of careful cutting, and there were some gaps here and there, very very difficult to do it with a handheld grinder for sure, wouldn't recommend 😂 8 hours ago, ®evo03 said: Very impressive, I have yet to try anything tubular, nearest I got was making from manifold down, with stainless pipe. Very cost affective, as the other way was beyond my budget. Think it cost me about £50 for 2.5 inch pipe and 4 bends. Had about 2 inches left, so it was tight! Mighty effort, as this is no way easy. I had to remove a XE manifold to heat wrap it. It took about 10mins removing and 10hrs refitting, trying to remember exact movement, jiggery-pokery thing. Did you use stainless mig wire? Yeah, the bends were actually pretty cheap to be fair, everything for this including the flange, all bends (6 180 degree, and 2 90 degree bends), the collector, and MIG wire was just a few quid over £200. The downpipe section I made up from existing pipe I had in my spares box that I've accumulated over the years. I did use stainless MIG wire yeah, I went with 308 LSI wire. After reading up on the grade to choose, it suggested 308 was a good option for its corrosion resistance, and that it also worked well with 304 base metal, which is what the bends are. I only bought a 0.7kg reel as it gets a bit expensive, but my mate's Rohr welder still worked nicely with the smaller reel which I wasn't sure it would as he usually runs a 5kg. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 22 Share Posted October 22 I did see a jig a while back on FB, next time I need to cut any tubes I will buy one for sure. It was not this one, but more a plastic this that was bit more universal, sadly can't find the post now. But I need for 3" https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pipe-Pro-Metal-Cutting-Guide/dp/B007QV1ZDC However a mate recommended a Wrap type, but not sure myself, was something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jackson-Safety-Contour-Marking-14752/dp/B004XNZJS8 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bilbo Posted October 23 Author Share Posted October 23 13 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: I did see a jig a while back on FB, next time I need to cut any tubes I will buy one for sure. It was not this one, but more a plastic this that was bit more universal, sadly can't find the post now. But I need for 3" https://www.amazon.co.uk/Pipe-Pro-Metal-Cutting-Guide/dp/B007QV1ZDC However a mate recommended a Wrap type, but not sure myself, was something like this https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jackson-Safety-Contour-Marking-14752/dp/B004XNZJS8 Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. That metal cutting guide would be ideal for the type of cuts you need for rollbars and harness bars etc., very handy. As for the other one, I'd definitely mess up even with the help of that 😂 I like how in one of the photos it says "asbestos free", I should hope so in 2024 😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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