stradacab Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 I'm always up for some pattern panels! lets get a group order going, put me down for one (and some lowere rear corners) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith1200 Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Passenger side looks a bit 'problematic'. If it was me? I wouldn't cut out anymore just now, I'd start welding. Hope the weather improves for you. Good to see someone tackling a 'proper' project car Cheers, Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 1, 2011 Share Posted April 1, 2011 Was thinking was about time to do another but with exchange rate and inflation will be more painful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 (edited) floors wing mount rails and full cills here please ide have bought a few ime a bit of a collector on the quiet,,got myself a gazebo to put up over the car makes working on it out the back less painful oh yea also got a mtre square sheet of mild steel in 1mm 1.5mm and a 8 inch wide by mtre long off cut of 2.5mm all for £20 have to say the door pillar fills me with horror more so than the roof panel, ime in it now though so onwards and upwards i cant make it any worse ...can i ? Edited April 1, 2011 by steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel Posted April 1, 2011 Author Share Posted April 1, 2011 (edited) i think the plan of attack is to repair this area first with a 50mm wide strip of steel i had cut today at the stockists then make a new a post then the floor havent decided on making a floor pan or buying at the moment ,,seems like a lot of potch to order from germany if there were some in the uk ide probably get new panels but ime an impatient bugger and i could knock a panel up in a few hours i dont think i will leave an overlap as per original its just a dirt/moisture trap in my eyes think i will weld edge to edge and be done Edited April 1, 2011 by steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymanc Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 i think the lip is there to stop water splashing back from the wheels and rusting the area whats rusted away on your car. well thats the idea,not worked though maybe if opel would have used more rustproofing it would have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 i can see the logic but as you say it hasnt worked in this case lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opel2000 Posted April 2, 2011 Share Posted April 2, 2011 i think the lip is there to stop water splashing back from the wheels and rusting the area whats rusted away on your car. well thats the idea,not worked though maybe if opel would have used more rustproofing it would have TBH Gary I think it was just a flange created for production to enable the construction of the car by the use of spot welds, slight return on the lip of the original flange would have given strength and rigidity to the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel Posted April 2, 2011 Author Share Posted April 2, 2011 (edited) been upto do a bit today the a pillar on drivers side is worse than thought this section is rotten = thanks for loan of pic mantadoc so looks like a full 1 piece panel that will have to include the section to be spot welded to the lip the door seal sits on there wasnt very much to get a pattern from for the cutouts it looked decent but was crusty and thin little bit of grinding ect it disintegrated i removed the dash/clocks to get better access and on passenger side where the pillar is really bad theres some heavy rust 8 inches up the windscreen pillar onto another matter if i fit full floor pan repair sections from germany what do you about your chassis number thats stamped into the floor ? do you weld it into the new pan or not bother Edited April 2, 2011 by steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 First off, looks like it is getting to the point of being awkward around that area so if it was mine, which it isn't, I would have a spirit level on the scuttle and rear panel and ensure it was jacked up level and not stressed or twisted. Maybe consider supporting near middle too, to stop sagging. You could be lucky if you can get that whole pillar off someone BUT mine looked mostly ok with paint on. Once stripped they were full of pinholes.......... so if going that way be careful. Those panels do turn up new on ebay though.................... Re "that panel" behind the ECU I could have gone to the door seal and it was just unpicking another row of welds........... relatively easy to slide a sheet in and scribe down the pillar and cut out the holes, they don't have to be accurate but the dash mount needs to be near enough. Think about where to add bracing although seems limited. As you haven't taken your floor out too far back yet then there is hope that will stop the car splaying open to the right. Need to see some pics of yours. I would leave pillar as intact as possible and do this panel and floor piece first if it was mine. If you need measurements I have the "Cavalier Group 4 body manual" lying around to you can check dimensions and brace. been upto do a bit today the a pillar on drivers side is worse than thought this section is rotten = thanks for loan of pic mantadoc so looks like a full 1 piece panel that will have to include the section to be spot welded to the lip the door seal sits on there wasnt very much to get a pattern from for the cutouts it looked decent but was crusty and thin little bit of grinding ect it disintegrated i removed the dash/clocks to get better access and on passenger side where the pillar is really bad theres some heavy rust 8 inches up the windscreen pillar onto another matter if i fit full floor pan repair sections from germany what do you about your chassis number thats stamped into the floor ? do you weld it into the new pan or not bother Re chassis no, if it was mine, I would cut out what is left of the number and spot weld the strip to the floor at each end. I seem to remember an article in a mag years ago where they re-shelled a car and did the tests to have it removed from VCAR and did this so the old no was alongside the new shell number for a "record" I can't see any really good reason for it in that scenario though.......... However, the police were happy with it when I got stopped one night in one of my weld ups years ago. These days I might also be tempted to get a set of stamps from machine mart and stamp it in the floor too so harder for anyone nicking car to remove. Most importantly, of course, it isn't my car, no warranty of any kind implied or given, good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 (edited) theres definitely no more metal being chopped out just yet ,i will need to fit the a panel/behind ecu full width and full height which is extremely awkward to get into the closed off areas to remove the old metal prior to making and fitting a new section i wil plod on and get there ime sure,, i will do what you say regards bracing and checking level ect cheers mantadoc all advice is greatfully received Edited April 3, 2011 by steel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantadoc Posted April 3, 2011 Share Posted April 3, 2011 theres definitely no more metal being chopped out just yet ,i will need to fit the a panel/behind ecu full width and full height which is extremely awkward to get into the closed off areas to remove the old metal prior to making and fitting a new section i wil plod on and get there ime sure,, i will do what you say regards bracing and checking level ect cheers mantadoc all advice is greatfully received If it were mine, going full height, I would think about X bracing windscreen and X bracing door apature at least top of screen pillar to bottom of B and bottom of screen pillar to top of B. That should allow access to work but shaw up door apature. But it isn't mine........ no warranty ................. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steel Posted April 3, 2011 Author Share Posted April 3, 2011 will get some 1 inch box in the morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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