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Removing Manta 1800 Gearbox - Idiot's Guide?


Fermanta
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Evening lads, about to embark on removing a gearbox from a Manta. My local friendly mechanic that usually nips out to my shed to do such dirty jobs for me is on holidays, so I  need to do it myself. Any tips or what problems am I likely to encounter? I'm not a mechanic, but have tools so that's a start. Oh the drive shaft is also to be removed.I tried to remove the 19mm bolts accessible from under the bonnet, but cold only remoe the two on the passenger side, I think I may need a really long spanner to remove the third one, near the servo.

I currently have the car well jacked up with plenty of space to get under it, but that's as far as I am.  Help, please :)

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Fermanta, drain oil first, hexy allen key, bottom of box. Or if you keep the drive shaft in gearbox side, when lowering.

Stick with me,

To get more clearance, remove shocks, bolt from steering nuckle, and bolts that hold front suspension to chassis legs, front anti~roll bar both ends.

support body of car, solid! jacking points, lower engine box and front suspension a inch or so! Support with jack

This allows clearance to remove bolts from bulkhead area, and allows bellhousing to clear both bulkhead, and pressure plate.

Lower gear bag with a jack.

Ive it down to 35mins, working flatout! When assembled, engine box and complete front suspension where inserted from beneath, car.

Hope this isnt to make a few quid on an ole gearbox.

Omega, carlton boxes are far better!!

Some say, gearbox can be removed without this lot, but its alot less effort this way, lve removed 8 now, all this way, except a 4 speed!

Edited by brady
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I've always removed the getrag 5 speed on both GTE and 1.8 Without lowering front suspension. On the 3.0 litres didn't even need to worry about the lever.

Remove prop, condom or latex glove over tail housing to keep oil in.

All the bolts can either be undone with the engine in normal position or with a couple of extensions and a UJ and potentially the gearbox mount undone from the body.

Letting the rear axle dangle and unhooking the exhaust rubbers can give it more tilt.

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Hmm....I already have the car up, sitting with two wheels under each wheel to give me clearance, so might try the second method where suspension doesn't get lowered first. Thanks for all your answers though, appreciated.

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Hmm....I already have the car up, sitting with two wheels under each wheel to give me clearance, so might try the second method where suspension doesn't get lowered first. Thanks for all your answers though, appreciated.

You'll probably need to remove the lever to do it "properly" A clip on the pin through the bottom of the lever, a 15 mm or 17mm through it from side to side and the 10mm or 13mm from top to bottom through the plate near gearbox casting. An angle plate goes from this to box.

Make a note of the position of the 10mm (cable) 11mm (locking) and 12 mm (rounded on one end) on the clutch cable. You are not supposed to alter clutch travel as the cable (even though most of us do)

Suggestion: Get a second hand Haynes Manta Manual off ebay as a bargain way to get a pretty useful book.

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Jack car up high enough to remove the gearbox from underneath.suport properly. I prefer ramps on the front to avoid the possibility of it falling off stands. I use stands at the rear.

Disconnect the propshaft.

Drain the gearbox oil.

Disconnect the Speedo drive to the gearbox.

Disconnect the reverse light switch connectors.

Disconnect the clutch cable and pull it out of the way.

Undo bellhousing to engine bolts that are accessible.

Place a jack under the gearbox cross member and undo the cross member.

Lower the end of the gearbox just enough to disconnect the gear linkage.

Lower the end of the box just a little more to gain access to remainder of the bellhousing to engine bolts.

Lift gearbox back up, support engine sump with some wood and lower the gearbox end back down until the jack clear.

Pull gearbox off the engine.

Job done.

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