cam.in.head Posted June 18 Share Posted June 18 washer jet should blow out easily enough if you have access to an airline at work.or if not new are available or most people on here will have one kicking around for you. mpg sounds a little low yes but i doubt any of mine do much better especially as they only get relatively short journeys anyway to work and back and other things can affect fuel consumption such as ignition timing,fuel used ,general condition and state of tune. ( oh and disregard my previous comment about 18000 rpm ! i doubt our engines can reach that ! .only just noticed it !) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted July 19 Author Share Posted July 19 Well, having replaced the throttle cable and adjusted the timing, the car was running quite nicely, with just a very low idle speed that I've been unable to resolve yet. But today disaster just as I was starting to build up some confidence - total loss of power on the A3 dual carriageway. Managed to coast and get it fully off the carriageway to wait for recovery after doing a quick check that it had sparks. Interestingly it would fire immediately on cranking, but then die straight after. I'd been thinking I'd start by looking at the carb, but writing that has just made me wonder whether the coil has a series resistance that gets bypassed when cranking. Anyhow, Sywell is now looking questionable for me, but let's see how things go over the weekend. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted July 19 Share Posted July 19 Only the earlier cars had the crank volts bypass / ballast resistor on coil. But it’s likely to be the amplifier tbh, pretty cheap to replace 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 Please photo carb, is it an auto choke, what carb. Also washer pump can be cleaned, and washer jet, a swing pin, or thin wire from a wire brush. Pipe can be cleaned also. Great believer in repair, not replace. It's only original once 😉 Would be worth asking on here for an old school carb tuner in your area. BTW, I can match asking price on advert if selling ? 😉🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted July 20 Author Share Posted July 20 (edited) 13 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: Only the earlier cars had the crank volts bypass / ballast resistor on coil. But it’s likely to be the amplifier tbh, pretty cheap to replace Worst possible scenario this morning - still wouldn't run at first so decided to determine whether it was more likely a fuel or ignition problem by seeing what happened if I sprayed easy start into it. First couple of times it fired then stopped, but then it fired and stayed running. I haven't managed to find any sign of an amplifier - would a 1980 not be too early for that? Current line of thought is to get a gasket/service kit and service the carb but I won't get that done before Sywell 😞 1 hour ago, ®evo03 said: Please photo carb, is it an auto choke, what carb. Also washer pump can be cleaned, and washer jet, a swing pin, or thin wire from a wire brush. Pipe can be cleaned also. Great believer in repair, not replace. It's only original once 😉 Would be worth asking on here for an old school carb tuner in your area. BTW, I can match asking price on advert if selling ? 😉🤣 I've put the air cleaner back on now, but it's an auto choke Varajet 2. Yeah, I'll sort the original washer jets in slow time and your offer is noted with interest, as I am still in two minds as to whether I have time to look after/use it, so selling is not out of the question. Edited July 20 by Kr1s clarify note on possible sale 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 (edited) 46 minutes ago, Kr1s said: Worst possible scenario this morning - still wouldn't run at first so decided to determine whether it was more likely a fuel or ignition problem by seeing what happened if I sprayed easy start into it. First couple of times it fired then stopped, but then it fired and stayed running. I haven't managed to find any sign of an amplifier - would a 1980 not be too early for that? Current line of thought is to get a gasket/service kit and service the carb but I won't get that done before Sywell 😞 I've put the air cleaner back on now, but it's an auto choke Varajet 2. Yeah, I'll sort the original washer jets in slow time and your offer is noted with interest, as I am still in two minds as to whether I have time to look after/use it, so selling is not out of the question. Ah, my mistake. Thought yours was a later 80’s 🤦♂️ (title of post missed completely lol ), what was I thinking 🤣 But sounds more on fuel side if it runs with easy start. Check all vacuum pipes, could be that getting air sucked in before carb, good place to stated as pretty easy to block them up to check if you suspect any. Nip the brake booster pipe too, these can do same thing so best to eliminate. If your still not getting the carb mixture, it Could be fuel pump, you would need to check it, but if the diaphragm or valve has failed, it might push a little fuel to the carb but not a good constant. Check all lines too as Methanol breaks down rubber over time. Failing that, then it’s carb strip as could be something pulled through and blocking jets Edited July 20 by Jessopia74 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted July 20 Author Share Posted July 20 Sorry, my post was unclear - not only does it keep running with easy start - it keeps running without, i.e. the fault has apparently cleared for now. Of course this makes the issue much harder to diagnose, but likely to reoccur until I address the cause 😖 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 1 hour ago, Kr1s said: Sorry, my post was unclear - not only does it keep running with easy start - it keeps running without, i.e. the fault has apparently cleared for now. Of course this makes the issue much harder to diagnose, but likely to reoccur until I address the cause 😖 Ah, wonder if it was some crud then and it’s cleared it. Happy days, just keep it local until you feel you want to investigate further. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted July 20 Share Posted July 20 if it was the resistance wire feed to the coil its unusual for it to go faulty but check that its secure at the coil terminal. the resistance wire and a black wire join in the same spade connector. this then gets its full 12v boost / bypass from the starter motor "extra terminal" no harm in checking that the ignition switch multiplug is pushed fully home too.( it lives halfway down / around the steering column near the side of the fusebox. accesable from hand with a torch ! with being a 1980 then it will be std points ignition so check security of earth lead on contact breaker baseplate ( if it has a small earth lead fitted ?)and condenser tightness and connection. an issue with vacuum leaks or the carb in general wouldnt cause the car to cut out completely but just misbehave but as jess says definately carefully examine the carb-to-servo vacuum hose ( idealy replace it) as they are well known for going brittle.as it wont help in general. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted July 29 Author Share Posted July 29 (edited) Hi Guys Hope you had a good time at Sywell. Really disappointed not to make it, but I always knew I'd struggle to get enough miles proving the car in time. Hopefully there will be plenty of photos on here so that I can see what I missed. Latest with my car - I got a service kit for the carb and have got the carb off the car, but having removed the appropriate screws and linkages I can't get the top cover to separate. Any hints or tips gratefully received! I'm thinking I'll need to make a kind of press from a long bolt and nut - just worried about cracking the castings. Cheers! Chris Edited July 29 by Kr1s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted July 31 Author Share Posted July 31 Happy to report that my jacking arrangement worked straight away. Next steps: cleaning and reassembly. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted July 31 Share Posted July 31 Nice bit of ingenuity 😎👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted August 17 Author Share Posted August 17 (edited) Happy to report that the car has now done almost 100 miles since the carb rebuild and so far it's running nicely. The idle speed issues are now all sorted and now that I'm doing some longer runs on the open road mpg is 25 or more. Spent this morning underneath it with the wire brush preparing for the arrival of some Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 and some Dynax UC so that I can get it ready to survive the winter in the garage. In general I felt the exercise confirmed that the car is pretty solid and all I really need to do is ensure I can keep it in check. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Edited August 17 by Kr1s 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted August 18 Share Posted August 18 Can’t recommend that hydrate 80 enough. It’s a really great product and will serve you well. Just be careful though removing any original thick seam sealer. Ofc some will be compromised, but it’s still best to leave if possible or at least replace it. Nice work though, should extend the cars life no end 👍 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted August 18 Author Share Posted August 18 7 hours ago, Jessopia74 said: Just be careful though removing any original thick seam sealer. Ofc some will be compromised, but it’s still best to leave if possible or at least replace it. 👍 So where I've had to remove it to get to rust underneath, should I replace it after applying hydrate 80 but before Dynax UC, or instead of Dynax completely? Cheers! On 20/07/2024 at 16:56, cam.in.head said: if it was the resistance wire feed to the coil its unusual for it to go faulty but check that its secure at the coil terminal. I am beginning to think this may have been the issue - after a couple of failed attempts to start it the other day I removed and reconnected this connector after which the car fired up straight away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted August 18 Share Posted August 18 6 hours ago, Kr1s said: So where I've had to remove it to get to rust underneath, should I replace it after applying hydrate 80 but before Dynax UC, or instead of Dynax completely? Cheers! I am beginning to think this may have been the issue - after a couple of failed attempts to start it the other day I removed and reconnected this connector after which the car fired up straight away. in the bigger scheme of things, it does not really matter which way around, so long as its got the crud removed and you have some protection on it. However, paint will 'wick' up into the gaps between joints too, so that is extra protection in that gap. Removing water or oxygen (or both!) from the metal means no rust ofc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted August 30 Author Share Posted August 30 One of the less good aspects of my car is that someone painted the lower front panel with underseal at some point. I've been pondering whether to get this removed and get the panel repainted in the original colour, or just remove any loose rust, treat with hydrate 80 and paint over roughly then fit a lower spoiler. I acquired a spoiler in good condition, just needing a bit of prep and painting. It looks like it needs some fixings which I don't have, but I can probably fashion something by hand or get something printed. Just need to decide which way I'd prefer the look before cutting/drilling the bodywork. I'll also get the thoughts of the body shop on what's achievable. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
®evo03 Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 If it needs any work, get it done before fitting spoiler, is it as photo or the aftermarket one? I have later type spoiler painted for my B. They fit without any mods. The end plastic fittings can be faced with soft foam, and just use the existing wing holes. I think the GTE type spoiler will also fit over early type spoiler when fitting. I'm building a car currently, and am thinking of accommodating a few different looks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 (edited) the front valance is / was always a rust area.even when relatively new you would find them undersealed to cover the chips and rust spots you will always get in that area. much the same as most 70's cars . if you fit the spoiler( suprised it doesnt already have one ?) then it covers virtually all the lower section anyway with just the front lip and above being visible. looks way better with one on in my opinion. its only held on by nuts and bolts in the middle and studs at the sides. these usually are broken but sometimes can be welded or bolt drilled and hidden and filled or just tiger sealed on ? cavaliers ( mantas too ? ? ) had the spoiler in body colour and also the front first half inch of the top edge too. finishing above in satin black up and behind indicators/ bumper. when cars get resprayed and this whole area ends up body colour it spoils the car totally.( as does fitting the front number plate wrong or without its bracket ! this sounds a bit petty but it seriously makes or breaks a front end ! Edited August 30 by cam.in.head 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted August 30 Author Share Posted August 30 2 hours ago, ®evo03 said: it as photo or the aftermarket one? It's like the one in the lower photo and has a GM part number 1 hour ago, cam.in.head said: it doesnt already have one ? No, and doesn't have any holes for having mounted one 1 hour ago, cam.in.head said: cavaliers ( mantas too ? ? ) had the spoiler in body colour and also the front first half inch of the top edge too. finishing above in satin black up and behind indicators/ bumper. Like in the second photo? That's what I'm thinking of getting done. All the mountings that are part of the spoiler itself appear to be intact - the square holes made me think there might be some kind of plastic retainer, but I suspect can do it with nuts, bolts and steel and rubber washers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted August 30 Share Posted August 30 Probably square nylon screw insert, you needs to measure the width of it, might be 3/8 (10mm) for a screw mounting. a few different types, but these might help. https://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/plastic-push-in-car-trim-clip-fixing-rivets/ https://www.carbuilder.com/collections/p-clips-hose-clips-and-fixings?filter.v.price.gte=&filter.v.price.lte=&sort_by=manual 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 to be honest i've never seen any mounted differently than just m8 normal bolts for the middle square brackets . it's the side m6 studs that are usually broken ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted September 18 Author Share Posted September 18 Small update - I've had a repeat of the sudden power loss I experienced a few weeks ago. It happenned after a prolonged full-throttle 3rd gear climb once the rpm got to about 3500 but this time power returned shortly afterwards. I went back to the same spot later on (there aren't many places other than dual carriageway where I can keep that level of load on for so long) and was able to repeat the symptom. I was then able to establish, that it always happens when the rpm gets high enough, but the exact speed is dependant on hill gradient - 3500 on a fairly steep incline, 4500 on the flat (not a condition I tend to see in my normal driving!). Always full throttle - I didn't think to try at similar rpm with lighter load, but power seemed to return more quickly if I lifted off for a moment than if not. I'm thinking the fuel pump isn't able to maintain a high enough flow rate (even though it's new) - harder to pull the fuel up from the tank on uphills. I'm thinking I'll try an electric fuel pump to check the theory. This time I was able to check that the tacho was not dropping out, so think the LT side of the ignition system was working OK. I'm suspecting that when similar happenned a few weeks ago, if I hadn't been so keen to disengage the clutch so that I could coast to safety it might have restarted on that occasion. It did happen after a prolonged 3rd gear acceleration on that occasion too. Regarding my ride height concerns, I've not had opportunity to get a good side-on photo yet but looking at old brochure pictures somewhat set my mind to rest on that front so I'll stop worrying about that for a while 😊 On the bodywork, most of the small bits of rust have been treated with Hydrate 80 now and are waiting for their next coat. I haven't managed to find the bodyshop open yet to get them to look at the front valence, spoiler and rust spots that I'd like to get dealt with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted September 18 Share Posted September 18 Interesting! Good that you have been able to replicate the issue and does point to fuel starvation. Is all the fuel pipework secured properly? Also can you check the incline with a full tank to see if you still have an issue? have you got a fuel filter inline with your carb? It might be worth adding a clear plastic one so that you can have a visual aid when it happens to see if it’s empty. It gas been known that carb fuel bowl floats can weap over the years and partially fill up so not allowing the chamber to fill to its proper level. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kr1s Posted September 18 Author Share Posted September 18 4 minutes ago, Jessopia74 said: not allowing the chamber to fill to its proper level I had also wondered about this. I wonder whether it's more likely given that my fuel pump is new. Less simple to diagnose and fix though. I can try filling the tank - hadn't been brave enough to do so thus far - always only half full at most - was half full today. I haven't got an in-line filter - just what's on the input connector on the Varajet - will get a clear one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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