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stumpy
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Posted (edited)

AHH bloody hell that's annoying I have no idea I can see them  my end

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Edited by stumpy
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Today did the opposite side inner cill. ..now for anybody thinking that  the inners were good I've included a pic of the crap that fell out of there 

this car has also had rear arches in the past  and they really haven't been. Done very well sadly

  looks to me that They Have welded them in then hammered the weld join inwards to  filler it

  so what I thought were mint quarter panels will need a fair bit of work. Now hopefully  I can   sort that when I tub the rear arches for a 400  kit

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Posted (edited)

So put In a new  peice across the rear with a folded lip to match the sides gives a nice shelf for the floors to sit on

the rear seat x member I replaced with a beefier Peice the centre will be cut out for a larger gearbox prop nd diff tunnel ime not using the stock manta axle or the  torque tube set up

 

Edited by stumpy
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Posted (edited)

100mm wide x 50mm  deep X2.5mm  I think the original was  around 70 mm     just something I had laying around.  Tbh. But  the thinking is anything I do at the rear now  has something  stout to be tied into 

Regards the axle  I will pm you cheers

Edited by stumpy
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Posted (edited)

Bit more done no going back now the chassis rails were absolutely rotten weren’t even supporting the front subframe rear mounts the rails were full of what looked like sharp sand ........will fab up new rails from box section and fetch them to the seat x member to tie in with the rear end

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by stumpy
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Picked up some box section from the unit next to mine    so will start on the chassis rails tomorrow  will breathe a sigh of relief once they're in and  it's steady again

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2 hours ago, stumpy said:

Picked up some box section from the unit next to mine    so will start on the chassis rails tomorrow  will breathe a sigh of relief once they're in and  it's steady again

Big milestone when those are done.

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So here’s trial fit of the chassis rail obviously need to add jacking points front and rear and a short peice ont the top of the front end

 

 

 

 

Obviously the bulkhead trans tunnel  and splash panels will be fabricated from scratch

Edited by stumpy
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The swan necks both sides have patch upon patch which have also rusted through  and aren't in much  better condition than the rotten chassis rails I've already cut out so  the swan necks will all be  done the same way 

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1 hour ago, stumpy said:

The swan necks both sides have patch upon patch which have also rusted through  and aren't in much  better condition than the rotten chassis rails I've already cut out so  the swan necks will all be  done the same way 

Yeah, that is always the issue when they patch over rust, it just spreads. Needs all corrosion cutting out, plus some adjacent that does not look bad. Once properly stitched back in and properly dressed it’s as good as new . But legs with the inner, without replacement are always going to be the issue. So your doing the absolute best thing 👍😎

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Should be  a very solid strong practically rust free shell by the time it's done..I had thought it was  in better condition than it is  prior to getting stuck into it..so I don't feel guilty :)

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So this is how it looks on the engine bay side  I’ve cut out a peice of the original chassis rail top cover panel  to get the new in place I will fab a peice to make good and will have a similar result shaped profile to the original

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

Project images are available to Club Members Only, Click to become an OMOC Member.

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The rail will run all the way back under the seat X member and the  rear axle tie bars will  mount  to the new rails  so it's all one peice should help to stiffen it up too

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1 minute ago, stumpy said:

The rail will run all the way back under the seat X member and the  rear axle tie bars will  mount  to the new rails  so it's all one peice should help to stiffen it up too

Yeah, that will be very nice. How far forward are you going? 

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Ime very tempted  to go the full length tbh Jes to the front panel  the only problem with that is the rails wouldn't drop down at the front as per original   but the inner wings at the front   I can fabricate to make it look good there ....the other option is to go about two inches past the top mount hence leaving the  front section and once its all plated in  would be hard to distinguish from stock or of course just  plate them in where they are atm

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14 minutes ago, stumpy said:

Ime very tempted  to go the full length tbh Jes to the front panel  the only problem with that is the rails wouldn't drop down at the front as per original   but the inner wings at the front   I can fabricate to make it look good there ....the other option is to go about two inches past the top mount hence leaving the  front section and once its all plated in  would be hard to distinguish from stock or of course just  plate them in where they are atm

If I had to pick a point to stop or go to rather, it would be the subframe bolt position. Past this point chasis gains nothing really 

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