skypeller Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 hello fellow manta nuts i need advice, im going ot be picking up a manta gte coupe in feb with a noisey timing chain(owner says its quiet when cold but noisey when warm, would assume its to do with oil temp/viscosity), now, any idea where i can source a new one and any other parts i may need in the job process? is there any chance of doing the the job with the engine in car without removing the head? could somebody do me a quick guide on the job on here? i would be vvvvery greatful, the haynes manual says it requires cylinder head removal, i would mind but im not sure head gaskets etc etc are readily available anymore. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Its more likely to be the hydraulic lifters making noise when the oil warms up and thins down. I would try an oil change first and see what that does. If the timing chains making noise it won't matter if its hot or cold. But if it is the timing chain then it can be changed with the engine in situ without removing the cylinder head. You can (or at least you used to be able to) get a replacement timing chain with a split link (like a motorbike chain) The one in the car may not have a split link, but a pin can still be pushed out (i modified a bike chain splitter when i did it) and the new chain temperaly attached to the one end of the old one. Then you rotate the engine carefully and slowly keeping the old chain tight to one side of the cam pulley and the new chain tight to the other. (so the cam and crank stay in time with each other) then just link up the new chain ends. You're basically feeding the new chain in by using the old chain to pull it through. I can't remember if i removed the chain tensioner when i did it or not Well it was about 10 years ago now and my memory isn't what it was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiney_norman Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Also, if you do need to remove the head, head gasket sets are still available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skypeller Posted January 22, 2009 Author Share Posted January 22, 2009 thanks chaps, i was going to do it the same way you describe, im not sure about the tensioner though, if i have to remove it and what that involves. it will need an oil change anyway so that will be the first attempt, the guy whos got it swears its the chain, and hes had a few rally mantas so i assume he knows whats he talking about, but i will see for myself i guess. where can i get a chain? vuaxhall dealer or motorfactors or something? i dont have much idea if the parts for these are still availalbe. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pma Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 Hi Sky,my place still stocks the timing chain kit for these,can't remember price though,will come back to you mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exclusive Opel Posted January 22, 2009 Share Posted January 22, 2009 If you look in the photo below, you will see the tensioner circled in yellow. This should simply unscrew and release the chain guide. Another thing to consider is the two rubber chain guides which do wear over time and end up with two grooves in them. You should get new ones in a full kit. Having said that, I have done as above but a lot of patience is needed! When I changed mine a few years ago it didn't rattle when cold but rattled like hell when hot. An Ultraparts kit is I think TK13 off the top of my head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skypeller Posted January 26, 2009 Author Share Posted January 26, 2009 thanks for all your help, i was thinking as a first attempt, maybe the plunger has stuck from being sat for 6 years and isnt tensioning the guide, as the plunger is spring loaded am i right? i will pop it out and see if it needs freeing up first off, but probably looking at a new chain kit when i get the manta. thats a nice looking engine, is it standard 2litre? are the 2.4 frontera engines a direct fit or are they no good? somebody told me they arent very well balanced out of the box. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamchop77 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 If you want to check if the chain is goosed or not, remove the rocker cover to uncover the cam sprocket and chain. Get hold of the chain with your finger and thumb and try to pull the chain up of the sprocket. If it does come up quite a way then the chain has stretched. Unfortunately if you just put another chain on it WILL stretch again in a few miles as the teeth on the sprockets on the cam and crank will have worn. Do the above check with the plunger in by the way. If the chain looks ok it could be the hydraulic tappets that are goosed. If you do the above check and the chain has stretched then just strip the motor down. It's not that bad of a job. I'm pretty sure that the Ultraparts number TK13 is correct and i picked my last set up a couple of months ago for about 25 quid. I think they do a kit that costs 80 quid that has the new sprockets in as well so i would go for that. Virtually all the motors i have stripped down have had worn tensioners and quite a few of those have been starting to break up as well so its well worth doing in my opinion. HTH Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamchop77 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Forgot to mention the 2.4 motor!!!! It is a virtually a straight swop. You need to swap the sump,etc over and also do a mod to the inlet plenum chamber. the 2.4/2.2 heads have the inlets raised. its just acase of drilling 2 holes in the 2.0 plenum to line up the ports. The 2.4 has a huge flywheel and also a very heavy crank, about 6-8 lbs heavier than the 2.0. you can use the 2.0 flywheel BUT the clutch won't last long, especially if you tune the 2.4. get the flywhell modded to accept the XE non pot clutch. These are tougher as std and upgrades are readily available plus the spline is the same as the manta so its an easy fit. The main gripe with the 2.4 is that they suffer badly with bore wear but only on the top 5-10mm. This is due to the bad rod ratio. Also the pistons are quite weak and can break up between the 1st and 2nd rings. HTH Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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