Kevin Abbott Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 I'm doing a xe rwd setup at the mo for someone and i'm using the baffle plate, modified to fit the 1800 sump. i need to sort the gaskets out, so do i go for the cork/bafle/cork or do i use the rubber c20ne one? If i use the rubber c20ne one do i put the baffle inside the rubber ( if it has a split, differing opinions on that on the web) or is it.. rubber/baffle/rubber. I know i should know this but my bloody head is buzzing with choices BTW, the only difference between the 1800 and xe fwd pick up pipe is an extra 5mm of depth on the 1800, I have also ditched my idea of keeping technical data within the club members only as i was flogging a dead horse Ta Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garymanc Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 i think its cork gasket and lob the baffle plate in the bin,rutts will be best to ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted September 22, 2010 Author Share Posted September 22, 2010 i think its cork gasket and lob the baffle plate in the bin,rutts will be best to ask Need to keep the baffle, if it's their it's needed, so i need to keep it, cheers Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyc Posted September 22, 2010 Share Posted September 22, 2010 (edited) Kevin Best bet is to use the late 20 8v Baffel/gasket assy. This has the rubber gaskets already bonded to the metal baffel. I found on my old FWD Cavaliers that using the other types i'd always end up with a leak, i'll dig the number out tomorrow if that helps Cheers Andy Edited September 22, 2010 by andyc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutts Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 i have always been led to believe the baffle is for front wheel drive to stop oil from swishing up the block under heavy braking or acceleration causing oil starvation, if in RWD mode the 1.8 sump has a small baffle system to avoid this happening already. so i always bin the baffle plate when doing xe conversion. if you keep the baffle get the cavalier baffle with rubber bonded on but if you get rid of the baffle then use the carlton 1.8 cork gasket with metal inserts so you cannot overtighten the gasket causing leaks. (i use wellseal also cos i love the stuff) . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mantasrme Posted September 23, 2010 Share Posted September 23, 2010 I've used both gasket setups in the past First time was the baffle plate (trimmed to clear sump) with the rubber gasket My rubber gasket was split and the baffle went in the middle of it but that was an 8v sri130 engine so might just be that gasket thats split But on my 16v i didn't use the baffle because as Andy says the 1.8 sump is designed not to need it. So i just used a single cork gasket (and a smear of goo for the belt and braces approach) Not had a problem with oil pressure and i've used it on road rallies and auto-tests so its had plenty of chance to slosh around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Abbott Posted September 23, 2010 Author Share Posted September 23, 2010 Thank's for the replys, hmm baffle plate, it looks like it keeps more oil at the crank to avoid starvation but if Dave dumped his on the rally car i'll probably get rid of mine. I'm making a big wing steel sump so one gasket is also cheaper and brings the pick up closer to the bottom of the sump. WIN WIN WIN Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rutts Posted September 24, 2010 Share Posted September 24, 2010 give manta dave a ring he has a mag with a steel big wing sump ready made for £60. inlet for dellorto or webbers for £60 also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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