di11aai Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Hey guys, recently started restoring a beautiful Manta A! Just wanted to get some knowledge of off anyone who is an expert in the matter with certain things! I'm dropping a ford 302 small block into it, and I realize now i need to change pretty much everything else to the car so it wont twist and crack in 2 starting from a rear axel, wheels, roll bar, etc etc... Any help is help welcomed! PIctures will be uploaded soon! doosh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 paul1393 on here is your man. He ran a V8 in his A series and changed loads of bits so he will be able to point you in the right direction. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manta88 Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 It will be interesting to see the photo's as you are not using a Vauxhall engine,good luck. Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doveyte2800 Posted January 30, 2013 Share Posted January 30, 2013 Starting with the rear you really should think about changing the axle, anything like a v8 and all its torque will cause problems with the torque tube layout. One of the cheap ways is to use a 4HA axle from a Scimatar 5A which is the same width as the A axle , it obviously needs link brackets for the new top arms. There are plenty of sites on the forum from the past on how this fits. You can then fit a Jag lsd diff to this axle which will give you a much higher ratio suiting the lower revs of the V8. Wheels are another thing to consider, you cant go too wide without arches unless u go for a larger ET, maybe something like a ET45 will give you a little more width overall. If you fit arches you can go bigger because you can decrease the ET to 0, also A Scimatar 6 axle will then fit, as width is as a Manta B. Dont know much about how big the ford engine is but engine mounts will possible need to be replaced / repositioned on the crossmember and can you get it to fit between the chassis rails within the engine bay, you have to get the exhaust manifolds and pipes down somehow. What gearbox will you use and can you get it within the tranmission tunnel without widening it. Just food for thought before you start, shame to get halfway then find something gets to much. Best of luck John /Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted January 31, 2013 Share Posted January 31, 2013 With the front anti roll bar, you can get some spacers made up to lower it probably about 1" 1/2 without upsetting the handling as had mine running like that with previous setup and i think that's how Paul cleared the exhaust and im sure he had to widen the tunnel to get the box in as the A has quite a small tunnel. Hope some of this helps. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
di11aai Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 Thanks for advice guys! having problems loading the pics. Body work is 90% done now, need to source a t5 gear box though! (aswell as many other parts) Pics should be up by tonight! Doosh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrycroft Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Hi, i have had/built a few highly modded A's from a 2.2injection 4 pot, to a rover V8 and a 360 bhp C20LET powered one. The bodies are fairly stiff as is but if you are worried about flex seam weld the shell whilst you have the car in bits. A roll cage would add stiffness but as Andy said (is that Andy Murrel btw way??? If so HI! remember me? i got an yellow ocre coloured door off you circa 94!) the engine mounts are part of the cross member - so go that route and fab your new mounts in the same vein. A good rule to apply here is that for clearance issues AND handling you'll need to get the engine as low and as far back as possible - this makes the fab'ing process pretty straight forward. I found with my V8 that the optimum position for the motor was easiest to determine by dropping the cross member out, grind off the original mounts and start fabricating the mounts (just tack welded) whilst trial fitting. It is FAR easier using the cross member as a sort of 'wheeled trolley' (use some 1" box to replace the steering rack to ensure the wheels stay true) and lower the manta onto the front suspension and motor. rover's are larger externally the Ford & Chevy V8's so you shouldn't have too many bulkhead/steering/starter motor issues. Oh and while it's out you can also reinforce the cross member if desired. :-) I had to sell my turbo'd A 3yrs ago due to the wonderful economy and still hanker after it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrycroft Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 ps - if you search my posts there should be one on the Turbo A - if not check out completed projects on the Suffolk County Manta's website. :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1900SR Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Simon P fitted a small block Ford lump into a Manta A for a customer, he's the man to talk to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
di11aai Posted February 14, 2013 Author Share Posted February 14, 2013 Still having problems loading pictures, can it only be done through a URL? As far as clearence for the engine, im not to worried about that, like you said alot of fabrication will be done (including bonnet work (unfortunatley)), but thank for the tips for the mounting brackets, would make sense doing it like that now that you mentioned it :) Im jst starting to think ive bitten of more than i can chew now O.O Next step is sourcing a t5 box, and sorting out running gear! Doosh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon p Posted February 14, 2013 Share Posted February 14, 2013 Manual 302 conversion. Stock axle Auto 302 conversion Jag IRS axle You should need to cut the bonnet, use these type of engine mounts http--,,--//www.skspeed.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductID=E1241122G Pm me any queries. Simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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