611 Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 Hi Guys Just a quick wiring question. Should the alternator have a earth strap to the block on the A series? I have an aftermarket one where the regulator is built in (so no little silver box on its own) and i wasn't too sure if it should have an earth strap? I suppose it would be more like the setup from a B series. I can take a pic of the back if that helps? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 14, 2019 Share Posted October 14, 2019 yes definately otherwise the inbuilt voltage regulator wont have anything to reference the output to same idea as the b series,little 6mm sq cable from body to engine bracket. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted October 14, 2019 Author Share Posted October 14, 2019 thanks. I have a little earth strap laying around in my box of bits that looks like it could be the right one. just need to wok out the terminals on the back now! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 (edited) the earth lead goes from anywhere on the casing to the bolt on the engine bracket. the terminal marked IND goes to your dashboard (battery light) the large terminal with the m6 nut is your battery cable positive.and that is it .all done ...............except............. some alternators will have a second b+ terminal for the regulator (some delco ones have it ,some dont and i dont think the bosch ones do ) if it does just link it with a smaller guage wire to the main large terminal.(pos) Edited October 15, 2019 by cam.in.head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dimpas Posted October 15, 2019 Share Posted October 15, 2019 Just remember Earth straps are so important as power cables. What i do is with a sand paper remove all derbis, tighten the nut and with a battery pole spray seal the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted October 15, 2019 Author Share Posted October 15, 2019 Thanks for the info, im going to pull it off and check terminals at the weekend as its hard to see the connectors properly with it on the car. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted October 19, 2019 Author Share Posted October 19, 2019 On 15/10/2019 at 19:29, cam.in.head said: the earth lead goes from anywhere on the casing to the bolt on the engine bracket. the terminal marked IND goes to your dashboard (battery light) the large terminal with the m6 nut is your battery cable positive.and that is it .all done ...............except............. some alternators will have a second b+ terminal for the regulator (some delco ones have it ,some dont and i dont think the bosch ones do ) if it does just link it with a smaller guage wire to the main large terminal.(pos) So this is the back of the alternator. so is it B+ (larger of the two bolts) the positive, D+ (the smaller one) the dashboard light and then use one of those bare studs for the earth strap? not sure what that plus and W spade terminals are for? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 19, 2019 Share Posted October 19, 2019 W is for tacho output, used to be common on Diesel engines with rev counters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 That sounds fine to me it's not a standard cav/ manta alternator like you would normally see fitted so the extra terminal confusion cleared up by Jess above. All the standard issue ones,even on the monza ,senator(higher amps but different brackets ! ) etc only had the normal 2 or 3 terminals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessopia74 Posted October 20, 2019 Share Posted October 20, 2019 I don’t know if the diesel CIH equipped cars have Rev counters, but it might be that it was off one originally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted November 26, 2019 Author Share Posted November 26, 2019 On 20/10/2019 at 17:20, Jessopia74 said: I don’t know if the diesel CIH equipped cars have Rev counters, but it might be that it was off one originally. Sorry only just seen this reply. Im not sure where it came from, bought it a long time ago when i was collecting parts. Be interesting to see what the output does if connected to the A rev counter. Especially as im going injection now. Might do some testing when i get the new ECU loom it, that's if it stops raining long enough to get the car out of the garage 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 carefull you dont blow up the tach.the tach wire goes to the green coil - wire in all mantas (all petrol cars ) never had a 2.3 diesel carlton / rekord so cannot comment otherwise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted November 27, 2019 Author Share Posted November 27, 2019 4 hours ago, cam.in.head said: carefull you dont blow up the tach.the tach wire goes to the green coil - wire in all mantas (all petrol cars ) never had a 2.3 diesel carlton / rekord so cannot comment otherwise Running the Omex ECU which has its own tach feed that i think i have to use their converter on for the old style in the Manta (if its the same as Escorts?) so wont be running anything direct from the coil as its a coil pack for my setup. Should have the new loom in for the ECU before Christmas to test it out if it ever stops raining!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted November 27, 2019 Share Posted November 27, 2019 ah sorry i thought you had a standard coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted November 28, 2019 Author Share Posted November 28, 2019 20 hours ago, cam.in.head said: ah sorry i thought you had a standard coil. Not much standard stuff left on the old A series these days 🙂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted May 10, 2020 Author Share Posted May 10, 2020 Im back on the alternator again and looking for your input! If you look on my image in the post earlier, you will see the D and the + by the spade terminal, i lifted the black housing and that also has a + by that stud. If i use the stud for the feed to the dash light, nothing happens, no light ever, but today i hooked up the spade one and now i get a faint light on the dash that seems to pulse even if the ignition is off? I have not tried it running as i only have a trickle charger and where i have been turning the car over to setup the engine its run the battery down. what is the best way to check the alternator is feeding the battery? as when i had the stud setup to the dash light the volt gauge just sat at 11v and didn't seem to move even if i did rev it which im sure with the old alternator it would move the gauge if you did that? Any help would be great as this and the oil pressure are the two things that seem to not work now i have new but aftermarket parts on it 😞 Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 b+ is the main 6mm power to the battery d+ goes to the dash light the other + is just to plug a suppressor into w ignore. casing is earth/ engine block. check the battery light by holding it to the alternator body or another good earth to make sure it works ok the regulator just unscrews with the 2 mountings worth just checking it because the contacts can rust and this will make it malfunction,there is a bent piece of metal that just presses against the regulator.you will see what i mean. make sure its clean. regulators are freely available if required.common bosch item. also worth noting that most if not all alternators wont give a charge unless the ignition lamp circuit is working and has the correct wattage bulb in (3watt) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted May 10, 2020 Author Share Posted May 10, 2020 40 minutes ago, cam.in.head said: b+ is the main 6mm power to the battery d+ goes to the dash light the other + is just to plug a suppressor into w ignore. casing is earth/ engine block. check the battery light by holding it to the alternator body or another good earth to make sure it works ok the regulator just unscrews with the 2 mountings worth just checking it because the contacts can rust and this will make it malfunction,there is a bent piece of metal that just presses against the regulator.you will see what i mean. make sure its clean. regulators are freely available if required.common bosch item. also worth noting that most if not all alternators wont give a charge unless the ignition lamp circuit is working and has the correct wattage bulb in (3watt) Good call about the regulator as its been sat for quite a while 🙂 The bulb should be fine as i have not touched that from before and it worked ok then. so i have a volt gauge, so the wiring goes from the alternator, up to the gauge and then back to the starter is that right? Do you think i will be ok using the spade terminal and not the bolt one? as i got nothing from the bolt terminal when connected to that or do you think it could be the regulator not working that is not giving anything from that terminal? when its running what sort of voltage should i get for the bash light? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cam.in.head Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 no you need to use the d+ terminal to the ignition lamp. the other + terminal is getting 12v from the b+ terminal so is for a suppressor if you want one. the voltmeter gets its 12v from the dashboard supply ( from ignition switch) so no seperate wiring needed there. check the regulator first and you never know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
611 Posted May 14, 2020 Author Share Posted May 14, 2020 Ok, so problem solved, im not sure what was the final fix! but this was the process. It was just using the 2 studs and not the spade, as contacted the manufacturer and they confirmed that! Stripped but the B+ and D+ wires back about an inch and popped on new terminals, made sure the dash plug was fully in, then took out the regulator and gave all contacts a clean, assembled all and then turned the ignition on. Got the light come on, started her up, light went out and charging at 14V at the gauge, Happy days 🙂 Another thing of the ever decreasing list!! Soon be time for that first run out once i have checked over the car to make sure all the bolts are nice and tight and nothing is going to fall off 🙂 Thanks for all the pointers guys. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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